Neil Turner

Heading off on holiday to North Wales

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A photo of the village of Portmeiron in North Wales

Later today, we’re off on our annual summer holiday. This year, it’s a week in North Wales, where we’ll be staying in a rented holiday cottage.

As usual, we’re going with my parents, who have kindly paid for the accommodation for all five of us. It also gives our nine-year-old chance to spend time with their paternal grandparents – as my parents live in York, they’re just a little too far to see on a regular basis.

Like last year’s holiday to Northumberland, this holiday is a domestic holiday; although Wales is a separate country from England, it’s not a separate nation state and so we don’t need to worry about having different currency, passports, plug adaptors and the like. And there’s no biosecurity restrictions, so we can bring and take back as much cheese as we’d like.

We are driving there, and it’ll be in our new electric car. Naturally, I’ve spent some time before we leave scoping out where we can charge the car whilst we’re there, but it’ll be its first distance test. A full charge should be enough to get us all the way there.

We’ve already started a list of where we’d like to go. This may well include Portmeiron, as pictured in the header image. That photo was taken the last time we were in North Wales, back in 2018. What we actually end up doing will, of course, depend on the weather.

I’ve written more than a week’s worth of blog posts in advance, so there’ll be no gap in blogging whilst I’m away.

Robin Ince and Pierre Novellie at BradfordLitFest

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Pierre Novellie (left) and Robin Ince (right) taking part in a discussion about Thinking Differently and Laughing Loudly at Bradford Literature Festival

A couple of Sundays before, we went to see Robin Ince and Pierre Novellie at the final day of the Bradford Literature Festival. They’re both stand-up comedians, who, as adults, have received ADHD (Ince) and Autism (Novellie) diagnoses, and written books about them. The event, entitled Thinking Differently and Laughing Loudly, had Ince and Novellie talk about their experiences both pre- and post-diagnosis, and their books.

The Bradford Literature Festival has been going for a few years now, and – full disclosure – my employer, the University of Bradford, has been one its major funders from day one. Indeed, this event took place in the university’s Great Hall, which, combined with an Open Day the day before, meant I spent quite a bit of my weekend at work in some capacity. Ashamedly, this was the first event I had attended, although I put this mainly down to issues arranging childcare in previous years. This event was in the late afternoon, and so we dragged our nine-year-old along along with their iPad and headphones.

The following paragraphs include sponsored links to Amazon for the books mentioned.

A photo of two books, 'Normally Weird and Weirdly Normal' by Robin Ince and 'Why Can't I Just Enjoy Things'

Robin Ince – Normally Weird and Weirdly Normal

I’ve seen Robin Ince a few times before. These include a couple of ‘Uncaged Monkeys’ events in 2011, which was sort-of a live show for nerds as a spin-off of the Infinite Monkey Cage show that he co-hosts with Professor Brian Cox on BBC Radio 4. We also saw his ‘Bad Book Club’ show in Hebden Bridge, again in 2011, and we’ve seen him at a couple of shows in Leeds and in Huddersfield. Finding out that Ince has ADHD was not much of a surprise – his comedy sets would often go off and tangents and he would frequently go over time.

Robin Ince has written quite a few books now, and I’ve read Bad Book Club (related to the aforementioned show), I’m A Comedian And So Are You (one of my books of the year for 2019) and The Importance of Being Interested. His latest is Normally Weird and Weirdly Normal, published in May, and this was the book he was here to promote. I haven’t read it yet, but we picked up a signed copy and I also have the audiobook to accompany us on our upcoming holiday. We also had a couple of Robin’s other books signed, including Bibilomaniac, which I haven’t yet read.

Pierre Novellie – Why Can’t I Just Enjoy Things

I haven’t seen Pierre Novellie before, but I follow him on social media as he’s popped up on a few podcasts that I listen to. Pierre was born in South Africa, moved to the Isle of Man in childhood and then went to Cambridge for university. He was diagnosed as being autistic in his thirties, and in the discussions on stage, he said he’d realised that autistic observations made up much of his comedy even before he was aware.

His book is called Why Can’t I Just Enjoy Things? and, if I remember correctly, Novellie self-published it before it was picked up by a publisher and released in paperback in May. I picked up the Kindle edition when it was on offer, and had started reading it on the plane on the way back from Greece. It’s very good; it’s funny, but it also makes you think. I’ve not finished it yet – probably a combination of being busy and my undiagnosed ADHD – but we picked up the paperback to have that signed as well. I mean, I could have asked Novellie to sign the iPad that I’m reading it on, but I’m looking at replacing it later this year.

As for the Bradford Literature Festival, it’ll be back next year. It’s a really good festival, with a huge range of activities and a real commitment to diversity.

The Potato Book and The Snack Hacker

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A photo of two hardback books. The one on the left is The Potato Book by Poppy Cooks, which is pink and features a photo of the author, a young blonde-haired woman, eating a chip, and The Snack Hacker by George Egg, which looks like a partially-opened sardine tin containing various snacks.

We’ve picked up a couple of new cookbooks recently: The Potato Book by Poppy Cooks (sponsored link) and The Snack Hacker by George Egg (sponsored link). And I’ll be honest: the main reason I’m writing about these new books is to break up what had been planned to be a full week’s worth of blog posts about smart home tech and firmware. As it was, we ended up buying a new car sooner than planned, and so some of those posts have been pushed back now. Anyway, on with the books.

The Potato Book

This isn’t the first time I’ve mentioned a book by Poppy O’Toole, better known as Poppy Cooks, as we also have her slow cooker book and use it regularly. Poppy is known as ‘the potato queen of Tiktok’, and so I guess it was only a matter of time before she published a book of potato recipes. Indeed, the cover of The Potato Book has a quote from Nigella Lawson describing her as ‘the high priestess of the potato’.

The Potato Book is split into eight themed chapters – mashed, roast, chips/wedges/hash browns, 15-hour potatoes, world classics, baked, potato salads, bakes and extra crispies. Usually the first recipe in each chapter sets out the basics, so the very first recipe in the book is how to make a classic mashed potato with salt, butter and double cream. The rest of the chapter is then variations on the basic recipe, such as hot honey and bacon mash.

Crucially, each recipe tells you what variety of potato to use for the best results. For example, the mashed potato recipes call for Maris Piper potatoes, but others use red-skinned or baby potato varieties.

We’ve only had the book a couple of weeks, and so far, we’ve just cooked her Swiss Rösti recipe. It wasn’t bad, but didn’t end up as crispy as we’d hoped.

I’m not going to spoil the final recipe in the book, but it’s worth marvelling at it.

The Snack Hacker

The second book was The Snack Hacker by George Egg. We’ve seen George’s Anarchist Cook show before (almost ten years ago, blimey) and this is in a similar vein – unconventional ways of preparing food.

Whilst some of the recipes are akin to traditional cookbooks, where you start with a set of raw ingredients, many take an existing snack food item and ‘hack’ it into something better. For example:

  • a Gregg’s Steak Bake, with some mustard, soured cream and spices to make a Stroganoff Steak Bake
  • a Breakfast McMuffin enhanced with mackerel fillets, curry sauce and mayonnaise to make a McKedgeree Muffin

It’s not just a book of recipes though. It’s also a memoir, covering George Egg’s career and childhood memories – especially the ones that are food-related. The illustrations and design are excellent – all done by Egg’s son, Jem Ward, with whom he pitched the idea for the book.

As yet I’ve not cooked any of the recipes, but I enjoyed reading it and will be trying a couple.

Hello to our new electric car

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A photo of a red Nissan Leaf

Well, our journey towards an electric car is complete, as on Friday, we bought a new (to us) Nissan Leaf. It’s a second generation model, built in 2021, and replaces our diesel Peugeot 3008. It’s also our second Nissan, having previously owned a Nissan Note from 2015 to 2019.

Both of our previous cars have been around 6 years old when we’ve bought them, whereas this Nissan Leaf is less than four years old. It’s the ‘n-Connecta’ trim, so a mid-range model with a similar level of features to our Peugeot. Our local dealership also had a cheaper model with the ‘Accenta’ trim level, but we decided to pay more for the additional features that we were used to with the Peugeot.

Driving the Nissan Leaf

Like almost all electric cars, the Nissan Leaf just has one gear, so it drives like an automatic. I’ve only ever driven cars with a manual transmission before, and so this took a little getting used to. In particular, one quirk of the Nissan Leaf is the parking brake (i.e. handbrake) is foot operated, roughly where the clutch would be on a manual car.

The car has three driving modes: standard, eco, and e-pedal. Standard is best for motorway driving, giving you better acceleration at the cost of higher power usage. Eco is fine for day-to-day driving, but turning on e-pedal enables single pedal driving. That means that you press the accelerator pedal to go, and take your foot completely off the pedal to slow to a stop. As it the car brakes, the energy generated is then recovered to the battery – known as regenerative braking. As well as meaning you only need to keep your foot on one pedal most of the time, it’s also the most energy efficient way of driving.

Compared to the Peugeot, the steering is much lighter, and even in Eco mode, it’s got good acceleration. But most electric cars will accelerate faster than an equivalent car with an internal combustion engine.

In common with the Nissan Note, the legroom isn’t great when driving, but Christine finds it more comfortable to drive than the Peugeot.

Energy use

We’ve only had the car a couple of days, and have used around 40% of its charge across around two and a half hours of driving. This equates to about 40 miles. The Lithium-Ion batteries in most electric cars are less efficient in really hot weather, like what we’re currently experiencing in the UK as I write this. Therefore, you should keep your EV below 80% charged in hot weather (if you can). Indeed, when I picked the car up on Friday, the dealership had charged it to this level.

The maximum stated range of the Nissan Leaf is around 150 miles. That’s quite a bit less than our Peugeot, which could do around 400 miles on a full tank. And, of course, a key disadvantage of electric cars is that even a quick charge takes longer than fuelling a car with petrol or diesel. We’ll have to plan our longer journeys with recharge stops, although most motorway service stations include several quick charge points now. That being said, a quick charge should mostly recharge our Nissan Leaf’s battery in about 40 minutes.

Size

We deliberately decided to buy a smaller car than our previous Peugeot 3008. There are a couple of occasions each year, when the Peugeot’s extra capacity would be helpful, like holidays. But for 95% of the time, we were driving around a car that was bigger than we needed it to be. That’s a waste of fuel, and also makes it more difficult to park in narrow space.

Compared to the Peugeot 2008, the Nissan Leaf is around 5 cm (two inches) narrower, so parking should be a little easier. It’s also shorter in height, by around 10 cm (four inches). However, weirdly, it is actually longer – by around 30 cm (6 inches). It doesn’t look like it should be longer, but it is.

As such, the actual amount of space inside the Nissan Leaf is only slightly less than in the Peugeot. And on the few occasions that we may need extra space, we’ll considering hiring a roof box, which will also be easier to reach with the lower roof.

Charging

So far, I’ve only charged the car at home, using our dedicated Rolec EVO car charger. The previous owner of our car had set it to charge on an overnight schedule, so by default, it won’t start charging as soon as it’s plugged in. However, there is a dashboard button to over-ride this to start an immediate charge. Three lights appear on the dashboard, visible from outside the car, to show how charged the battery is.

On a ‘slow’ 7 KW home charger, expect a full charge to take around 6 hours. At present, I’ve knocked the current down to 16 Amps, so a full charge would probably take closer to 14 hours at this rate. This is where the equation to calculate power, voltage and current that you learned for GCSE Science comes in.

The Nissan Leaf supports two charging sockets. There’s a standard ‘Type 2’ socket, which only supports ‘slow’ chargers up to 7 KW, like our Rolex EVO. Then there’s a second ‘CHAdeMO’ socket, for use with supported fast chargers. Type 2 is essentially the European standard, and some public charge points only offer type 2 sockets, even for fast charging. Therefore, if we need to use a fast charger, we’ll need to find one that offers a CHAdeMO socket. Many do, but not all.

All the extra fancy gubbins

Being nine years newer than our previous car, our Nissan Leaf has lots of additional features:

  • Adaptive cruise control. I used cruise control extensively on the Peugeot and so pleased to have it on here. Combined with no need for gear changes, I can drive for longer without using any of the pedals with this on. ‘Adaptive’ means that it will slow down to match the speed of the car in front if needed, which I didn’t have before.
  • Built-in Apple CarPlay and Android Auto. Our Peugeot had the most basic entertainment system without a colour screen, so it’s nice to have these built-in. However, it only supports these over USB – if you want to use either CarPlay or Android Auto wirelessly, you need to buy a separate USB adaptor (sponsored link).
  • Heated seats and steering wheel. I suppose these will be useful in winter. Our nine-year-old seemed very keen on the idea of heated seats, until we pointed out that they still need to use a car seat until they’ve grown a bit more.
  • Remote start air conditioning and heating. Whilst the car is plugged in, you can use the Nissan app to remotely start the air conditioning or heating systems, so that your car is the right temperature before you set off. This also reduces the load on the battery.
  • Forward, rear and around view cameras. Our Nissan Note had no parking sensors whatsoever, whilst our Peugeot 3008 had standard rear parking sensors. The Nissan Leaf, meanwhile, offers a reversing camera, a forward camera, and ‘around view’ cameras. The around view gives you a top-down, ‘bird’s eye’ view of your car whilst reversing. This makes it much easier to park straight, especially if there are no white lines marking out the space. There’s also moving object detection.
  • Blind spot alerts. A small red light flashes on your wing mirror, along with an audible warning, if there’s something in your blind spot.

There’s a higher level of trim called ‘Tekna’ which adds a self-parking feature. That would have been lovely to have, but as we were buying used, we were limited to what was available at the dealership.

Compared to the Peugeot, the only things that I’m missing so far are:

  • The large storage box between the front seats (the Nissan Leaf has a smaller one)
  • The head up display, which showed the current speed and whether cruise control or the speed limiter was enabled.

The Nissan Connect app

The Nissan Connect mobile app allows you to control aspects of your car remotely, like checking its charge status or starting the heating or air conditioning. Alas, although I’ve downloaded the app, I can’t use it yet. The previous owner of my Nissan Leaf didn’t unlink the car from their account, and so I’m waiting for someone at Nissan to un-link it. Thankfully, the dealership gave me a copy of the DVLA ownership change confirmation and so hopefully that’ll be enough evidence.

Overall, we’re really happy with the Nissan Leaf. It’s easier to drive, easier to park, and should be much cheaper to run. I suppose it’s major test will be when we need to drive longer distances – like when we go on holiday next week.

Farewell to our old car

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A photo of a black Peugeot 3008.

By the time you read this, we’ll have got ridden of our previous car, a black Peugeot 3008, after six years. We’ll have picked up our new electric car and I’ll write about that in future blog posts.

The Peugeot 3008 was our second car, and we bought it in 2019. It was not a planned purchase, but was necessitated by our previous car being written off in France. That car was a Nissan Note, bought in 2015 shortly after I passed my driving test. We were therefore limited by what we could get locally, and at short notice.

Trim and spec

As it was, the Peugeot 3008 has served us well. When we bought it, it was six years old and had clocked up around 80,000 miles in that time, which probably meant that it was cheaper than it would’ve been with a lower mileage. We didn’t expect to be able to buy such a large car within our price range.

In terms of trim, it was an ‘Allure’ model, which meant that it had some additional features. These included a transparent head up display showing your current speed, cruise control with distance alerts and dual zone climate control. However, it also had the most basic stereo system, with just a CD player, 3.5mm auxiliary port, FM radio and a single USB port which could be used as an iPod Dock Connector. It didn’t support Bluetooth at all. A couple of years ago, we added a free-standing CarPlay and Android Auto screen which helped, but also meant having various wires trailing across the interior.

Dirty diesel

The other big disadvantage of the Peugeot 3008 was that it was a diesel. At the time we bought the car, dieselgate was thought to just apply to Volkswagen vehicles, but it may well be that our car was affected. We’ll see what happens when the case against Peugeot finally makes it to court.

Its emissions mean that we would have to pay to access certain clean air zones, such as London’s ULEZ and the clean air zone in Birmingham. As it is, we’ve not needed to enter those zones whilst we have the car, but will be taking our new electric car into Birmingham’s clean air zone next month. Ironically, our previous Nissan Note would’ve been fine in the ULEZ with its petrol engine, despite being an older car.

That being said, it did have a six speed (manual) gearbox, and that sixth gear was great for motorway driving.

Getting expensive

I wrote last year about how keeping our car roadworthy was getting expensive. It had been in the garage for repairs four times in as many months, and would be back in again within a month.

What proved to be the turning point was finding a patch of rust on one of the doors. Getting this fixed would have cost a lot of money, and with the car’s mileage continuing to increase, we decided it would be beyond economic repair. There’s also a laundry list of other issues:

  • The tyre pressure monitor on one of the wheels has never worked in the six years we’ve owned it, and so the car beeps loudly at you after around 10 minutes of driving to tell you this.
  • Various squeaks and knocking noises, suggesting bits of the car are working loose.
  • The air conditioning hasn’t really worked in well over a year, despite being recharged.
  • It seems to burn out headlight bulbs quicker than it should do.
  • It’s always leaked very small amounts of oil, but it’s never been clear where it’s leaking from.

I spent about an hour yesterday getting our personal effects out of the car, which included £3.04 in change that had ended up in various nooks and crannies.

Trading it in

We are doing a part-exchange, so the value of the old Peugeot 3008 will be used as a discount on the new car. However, with our car now having almost 130,000 miles on the clock, it’s worth less than £1000. Indeed, the part exchange quote we got was about 10% what we spent on it six years ago.

It’s probable that the car will be sold at auction. After which, who knows. I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s stripped for useful parts and scrapped. It would be a shame, as it’s been a good car for us. It got us through the pandemic, and we’ve taken it on three holidays, including two in France. But unless someone is able to repair it cheaply, I doubt it’s worth much to anyone.

Incidentally, our old Nissan Note is still on the road, as far as we can tell. After we left it behind in France, the insurance company arranged for it to be collected and sold it to a car breakers. However, it looks like they fixed it up and got it back on the road, and it passed an MOT as recently as this May. I can only assume the breakage firm had enough spare parts to patch it up and sell it on.

Tuya-Cloudcutter

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A Tuya IR and RF bridge that has been flashed with new firmware using tuya-cloudconverter

Last year, I wrote about a tool called ‘tuya-convert’ which exploits a vulnerability in ESP-based Tuya devices to install custom firmware such as Tasmota. But not all Tuya devices use ESP chips, and that’s where tuya-cloudcutter comes in.

I have one such device, an ‘S11’ RF and IR bridge (pictured above) that I picked up cheaply from AliExpress last year. Instead of one of Espressif’s ESP chips, it comes with a Beken BK7231N chip. Having disassembled its case, I also didn’t find any obvious pins for the UART bus. So I was relieved to come across tuya-cloudcutter, as it doesn’t require any soldering or disassembly. tuya-cloudcutter should work with any devices that use the BK7231T and BK7231N chips.

Like tuya-convert, tuya-cloudcutter exploits a vulnerability. This was responsibly disclosed to Tuya (the bug bounty was donated to charity), and newer devices are shipped without this vulnerability. However, there’s no firmware update for my S11 device to fix the issue, which is perhaps poor from a security perspective but suits my needs right now.

Running tuya-cloudcutter on a Raspberry Pi

You’ll need to run tuya-cloudcutter on a Linux device, and a Raspberry Pi is perfect for this. Indeed, there’s a detailed tutorial to follow. You’ll need Python, Docker, Git and NetworkManager installed and enabled, and there are a couple of configuration files to edit before you start. Everything is done using a command prompt, so you could do it over SSH using a Windows machine with Putty if you wanted to.

A note: I first tried this on my nine-year-old’s Raspberry Pi 400, and it didn’t work, whereas it did on my Raspberry Pi 4. I believe it was an issue with the specific Wi-Fi adaptor in the Raspberry Pi 400.

You may find that it’s easier to have the device already set up in the Tuya or Smart Life app, as you’ll be able to find the existing firmware version. You’ll need this when running the tuya-cloudcutter tool.

Detaching and flashing

tuya-cloudcutter offers two modes:

  1. Detach – this leaves the Tuya firmware intact on the device, but detaches it from the Tuya cloud. You can then use the LocalTuya or TuyaLocal custom Home Assistant integrations from HACS to control your device, but the official Tuya and Smart Life apps won’t work anymore.
  2. Flash – this also flashes new firmware onto the device.

In terms of firmware choices, by default you get:

  • OpenBeken – a Tasmota-like firmware where you can configure the device
  • ESPHome Kickstart – a minimal version of ESPHome, which can be updated later.

You can also add your own firmware, although be careful as you may brick your device if the firmware isn’t configured correctly.

If you choose to flash new firmware, then when the tool has run correctly, you’ll see a new Wi-Fi network appear for you to connect to. The Hotspot login page should open automatically, but if not, go to http://192.168.4.1/ to proceed. You can then configure the firmware to connect to your Wi-Fi network.

Switching firmware later

For my device, I tried OpenBeken first, but found that it wasn’t able to use the RF capabilities of the device. Instead, I built an ESPHome configuration, using the tuya_rf custom component, and flashed that, using OpenBeken’s OTA firmware updater. Because once you’ve used tuya-cloudcutter to install new firmware on a device, you don’t need to use it again – you can switch from OpenBeken to ESPHome and vice versa quite easily.

Also, if you read yesterday’s post about the Sonoff RF Bridge, no, this RF bridge didn’t work with my doorbell either.

Portisch firmware on a Sonoff RF Bridge

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A AZDelivery D1 development board that I've used to flash Portisch firmware on a Sonoff RF Bridge

A couple of weeks ago, I wrote about flashing Tasmota firmware onto some old Tuya smart plugs, using a USB to UART converter and some Dupont jumper cables. I also flashed Tasmota onto a Sonoff RF Bridge, which I’d bought to listen to doorbell presses. This meant that the RF Bridge would work with Home Assistant without needing a HACS integration or addon, and wouldn’t need to rely on cloud services to run.

However, inside every Sonoff RF Bridge there are two wolves chips with firmware. There’s an ESP8266 chip, which handles the Wi-Fi side of things, and an OBS38S003 chip which handles RF communication. I have the latest R2 v2.2 model; older ones have a different RF chip.

The default iTead firmware on the RF chip has been locked down to only support a limited number of RF messages. That’s fine if your device is supported, but my doorbell isn’t. So even with Tasmota installed, pressing the button my doorbell didn’t do anything as the RF firmware was programmed to ignore it.

Portisch RF fimrware

The OBS38S003 RF chip can be flashed with ‘Portisch’ firmware, which allows all RF messages to be received and decoded. However, whereas the ESP9266 chip has UART pins that don’t require any soldering to access, the OBS38S003 doesn’t support a UART bus. There are therefore two ways to get around this:

  1. Modify the board using additional soldered cables and cutting some lines on the board
  2. Using another circuit board, flashing firmware onto that, and then using the flashing board to flash the chip.

I went with option 2 – I don’t have a soldering iron to hand, and didn’t want to make a mistake and damage the board beyond repair. Instead, I bought this AZDelivery D1 NodeMCU Wi-Fi Development Board (sponsored link). There are a number of ‘D1’ boards out there – Wemos make the most well-known – but this was £7 and available from Amazon. Ironically this board also contains an ESP8266 chip.

Flashing the development board

To flash the D1 board, I needed to install two things:

  1. The Arduino IDE
  2. Python

I installed both, and then followed the instructions that came with the AZDelivery D1 board to set it up as a board in the Ardunio IDE. Next, I loaded the OnbrightFlasher into the Ardunio IDE and flashed it onto the D1 board. Make sure that use a micro-USB cable that supports both data and charging – a charging-only cable will power the device, but you won’t be able to connect to the D1.

Next, it was time to connect the D1 board to the Sonoff RF board. From here, it’s best to follow this tutorial from the ‘Erasing the MCU (RF chip) on the PCB‘ heading, with the following notes:

  • I only got a garbage response from the ‘handshake’ command until I amended the baud rate to 115200 in the Arduino IDE.
  • When it comes to running the flashScript.py script, open a command prompt first, and then run the script.
  • For the OBS38S003 firmware, there are 4 different firmware versions that you can flash. I had the most luck with the one called ‘portisch_main_OB38S003_BUCKET_SNIFFING_INCLUDED.hex‘.
  • If you haven’t already flashed Tasmota, make sure that you flash the ‘tasmota-sensors’ version rather than plain vanilla Tasmota.
  • If you have ESPHome on your Sonoff RF Bridge (see here for the YAML configuration), rather than Tasmota, you may have more luck with rcswitch_main_OB38S003.hex (I haven’t tried this myself)

Once the firmware is flashed, you can disconnect everything, put your Sonoff RF Bridge back together.

Testing the Portisch firmware

In Tasmota, open the Console and type in ‘rfraw 1‘ and press enter to enable Portisch. Then type ‘rfraw 192‘, and the device should beep. You can then type ‘rfraw 177′ and the Sonoff RF Bridge will go into ‘bucket sniffing’ mode – this will display the various codes being broadcast on the 433 MHz band. There’s more guidance on the Tasmota device page and RF commands section.

So, is my doorbell smart now?

The bad news is that, despite all this work, I haven’t been able to use the RF Bridge to capture my doorbell’s signals to turn them into actions in Home Assistant. The codes being sent by my doorbell seem to rotate, presumably so that only the receivers in my house respond and not someone else’s. And, the 433 MHz channel is also very noisy – there are lots of codes being sent by other devices like a frustrating game of Numberwang.

Basically, if I want to have a smart doorbell, I’m going to need to just buy an actual smart doorbell, aren’t I? At least I have an ESP development board to play with now.

Our journey towards an electric car – part IV

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A photo of a Rolec EVO electric car charger mounted on a Yorkshire stone wall

Time for the fourth post about our journey towards an electric car. Part one, in May, introduced the series, and part two last month answered the questions ‘why’ and ‘why now’. Meanwhile, part three talked about choosing a home electric car charger. Today, I’m going to talk about the charger that we had fitted.

We decided to buy our car charger first, before buying an electric car, so that we would be able to charge it at home from day one. So, back in May, we had a new Rolec EVO charger installed on the outside of our house, by a local electrical firm.

It’s an untethered charger, as the charger is located in quite an exposed place. That means that we can put the cable away when not in use, and it’s at less risk of being stolen. It connects over Wi-Fi and Bluetooth; we chose a Wi-Fi model as it’s (just) in signal range of our router.

Around the charger socket is a ring light, which changes colour based on its status. As there’s no car plugged in, but it’s ready to charge, it’s flashing blue. It’ll turn green once a car is plugged in and charging.

The Rolec EVO app and OCPP

A screenshot of the Rolec Evo charging app on iOS

By default, the Rolec EVO uses its own app, which is fine. Within the app, you can start and stop charging sessions, and select the level of current to charge slower or faster. There are also the ‘Eco’ charging modes, which I’ll explain further down.

You can manage the Wi-Fi network that the charger is connected to (whilst connected via Bluetooth of course) and perform firmware updates – since we had this installed in May, there’s been a couple of updates released.

The Rolec EVO also supports OCPP, and so I could switch it over to a different platform. For older Rolec devices, the default platform is Monta (there’s a guide here) but others are available.

I may well consider switching to Monta, as there’s a Monta integration in HACS for Home Assistant. As yet, the backend for the Rolec EVO app doesn’t appear to have a public API. That means it’s not currently possible to add it to Home Assistant, other smart home platforms, or other electric car charging apps, unless you change to Monta.

Eco modes and schedules

As well as the big chonky electric cable that runs from your charger to your consumer unit (what most people call a fusebox), there’s a smaller cable attached. This connects to a CT clamp, that monitors your household electricity usage. If you put the charger in ‘Eco’ mode, then it’ll adjust the charging rate depending on how much power is being used elsewhere in the home. For example, if your oven is on, it might lower the current.

Eco+ mode is there for solar panel users, and so ensures that charging takes place when the sun is shining. That should save you money over using grid energy.

You can also set a charging schedule. This is helpful if you have an EV electricity tariff, which offers lower energy prices at set times of the day. That way, you can plug your car in, and then it’ll wait until the cheaper times kick in before it starts charging. We’re with Octopus (here’s my referral link), and they have two dedicated EV tariffs. One, ‘Intelligent Octopus Go’ requires you to have a certain model of car and a certain charger. It supports a lot of chargers, including other, older Rolec chargers, but not the newer EVO model that we have. The other, Octopus Go, simply offers cheaper electricity in the early hours of the morning. We’ll need to look into these once our smart meter is working again – you’ll need a working smart meter for both tariffs.

Future-proofing

I’ve mentioned that the Rolec EVO charger supports OCPP, so I can change to a different back-end system or run my own OCPP server. But it looks like it uses an Espressif ESP chip for Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, based on how it presents itself to my router. So it might be possible to put custom firmware on it in future. Having spent a four figure sum getting installed, I don’t think I’ll be looking at this anytime soon, but it should mean I’m in a good place if Rolec were ever to go out of business.

We just need a car now

So that’s the charger that we’ve had installed. Now we just need a car to plug into it. The good news is that we put a deposit down on a new electric car on Saturday, and will be picking it up at the end of the week. I’ll conclude the series once we’ve got it.

Ditching proprietary Zigbee bridges

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A photo of two dongles, both Sonoff ZBDongle E devices, labelled 'Zigbee' and 'Thread'.

For my Zigbee devices, I use Zigbee2MQTT and a Sonoff USB Zigbee dongle as my co-ordinator. As I came quite late to the Zigbee party, I didn’t pick up a proprietary Zigbee bridge, but if I had, I wouldn’t use one. Today, I’m going to go through a few reasons why.

Examples of proprietary Zigbee bridges include the Philips Hue Bridge, the Ikea Dirigera Hub and the Tuya Zigbee gateway, but there are others. Here are my reasons why it’s best to go with a more open system, like Zigbee2MQTT or Home Assistant’s Zigbee integration. I’ve previously compared the two.

A map of my Zigbee network, showing the mesh connections between devices

Having all your devices on one Zigbee network

Zigbee is a mesh network. That means that, as more devices are added, the network actually gets stronger, as each device can communicate with each other. This is especially true with mains powered Zigbee devices like smart plugs and light bulbs. Therefore, if all of your Zigbee devices are on the same network, the connection between each device should be stronger. I’ve included a diagram of my network above, and you can see the multiple mesh connections between devices.

If you have multiple Zigbee bridges – say one for your Hue lights and another for your Ikea smart plugs – you risk causing interference between networks. Furthermore, Zigbee runs on the same 2.4 GHz frequency band as Wi-Fi, Bluetooth and your microwave oven. Having everyone on one network should reduce interference.

Better device support

Some Zigbee bridges are better than others, when it comes to supporting third-party devices. For example, you might be able to add an Ikea Tradfri bulb to a Philips Hue bridge, but possibly not another kind of device. Zigbee2MQTT has, arguably, the best device support and will work with just about any Zigbee device, regardless of manufacturer. You can check the Zigbee Device Compatibility Repository to see which devices work with which platform.

My Zigbee devices are a mixture of Tuya and Ikea, and they co-exist well within Zigbee2MQTT.

Cheaper

Most proprietary Zigbee bridges cost around £60. Meanwhile you can plug a USB Zigbee dongle into a spare PC, or a low-powered Raspberry Pi device that you may already have. The USB dongles typically cost £20-30 each (my Sonoff ZBDongle-E costs £27 at Amazon at present [sponsored link]), and you’ll only need one dongle and one computer rather than multiple bridges.

Easier to troubleshoot

With both Home Assistant’s ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT, you can look at the logs to see what’s going on inside your Zigbee network. Hopefully, that’ll help with troubleshooting any devices that aren’t working the way they should. As shown above, you can also get a diagrammatic representation of your network. This lets you see how your devices connect to each other and whether there are any weak spots on your mesh.

Not reliant on cloud services

There’s a risk that your proprietary Zigbee bridges could become expensive paperweights, if their manufacturers decide they’re no longer going to support them and turn off the cloud servers. They may continue to work locally, but if their cloud servers go dark, you may find that you can’t control your devices remotely any-more. By hosting your own Zigbee bridge, you can still have remote access but on your own terms. I use Homeway for remote access to Home Assistant, but you can also set up your own reverse proxy, for example.

Proprietary bridges may offer some convenience and a nice app, But, if you’re willing to put a bit of effort in to manage your Zigbee devices yourself on one single network, I think there are more advantages of going down the route of using Zigbee2MQTT or ZHA.

Our journey towards an electric car – part III

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Time for part three of my series of posts about our journey towards buying an electric car. Part one, in May, introduced the series, and part two earlier this month answered the questions ‘why’ and ‘why now’.

Today, I’m going to focus more on point one from my ‘why’ post – being able to charge a car at home.

Granny chargers

When you buy an electric car, it’ll probably come with what is colloquially known as a ‘granny charger‘. This allows you to charge your car from a standard 3-pin socket, and gets its name for when you’re visiting your grandma’s house – the implication being that she doesn’t have a proper electric car charge at her house.

Granny chargers are okay to use occasionally when there’s no better option, but there are good reasons not to use them regularly:

  • The maximum power output is about 2.3 kW, which means your car will charge very slowly.
  • They must be plugged directly into a wall socket without using an extension lead, which may be awkward if you don’t have a plug within reach of your car. You may also need to have a window open to get the cable outside.
  • I’ve seen photos of plug sockets that have melted due to continual use with a granny charger.

Waterproof outdoor 3 pin sockets

You can alleviate some of these issues by having a waterproof outdoor 3 pin plug socket installed, which you can also then use for powering lawnmowers, for example. If installed correctly, and in the right place, there shouldn’t be any risks of melting/fire or the cables not being long enough. Indeed, my neighbour has chosen to go down this route for their hybrid car. Make sure that you get the socket professionally installed, of course.

However, this solution doesn’t alleviate the first issue, which is the slow charging. If you’re going to regularly charge an electric car at home, then you should invest in a dedicated electric car charging socket.

Electric car chargers

If you want to be able to charge your car more quickly and safely, then you’ll need to get an electric car charger socket installed. This is a box fitted to the outside of your home, that has a cable that you can plug into your car to charge it. Where it differs to a 3 pin socket is that it will have its own fuse in your consumer unit (fusebox) and will be rated for much higher energy use – up to around 7 kW. That means your car will charge more than three times faster with a dedicated home charger, than using a 3 pin socket. It’ll still be slower than some of the fast public chargers, but it will be cheaper.

Getting an electric car charger fitted can be quite expensive. When I’ve looked, the cheapest prices have been around £800, with £1000 to £1300 being the typical cost. This includes the cost of the charger unit and installation.

What to look for in an electric car charger

There are a number of different chargers available, from companies like Rolec, Ohme, Myenergi and Hypervolt that you may not have previously heard of. I’m not going to recommend one particular manufacturer, but here are a few points that I considered when choosing one:

Tethered or untethered

Some chargers are ‘tethered’ – in other words, they come with a permanently connected charger cable that you can coil up out of the way when not in use. The advantage of this is that the cable is included in the cost of the charger, and you don’t need to store it somewhere.

Untethered chargers have a socket for you to plug in your own cable, which typically isn’t provided and needs to be purchased at an extra cost. However, this does mean that you can put the cable away securely when not in use – I’ve heard of a couple of instances where tethered cables have been cut and stolen. If your charger will be in a more exposed place, maybe consider an untethered charger.

Wi-Fi or mobile data

Just about all electric car chargers include an app to manage charging. This allows you to monitor the charging process, and authenticate cars that are plugged in. After all, you probably don’t want any random car charging using your electricity that you pay for.

This means that the charger needs to connect to the internet. If your charger will be located some way away from your house, then you may wish to consider one that includes a mobile data SIM to connect to a cloud service. Otherwise, you can have one that connects to your home Wi-Fi network – but make sure that it’ll have a good signal before it’s installed. Some also come with Ethernet, if you have this available and want a physical network connection.

Some chargers also work via Bluetooth, which is fine over a short range, but not the most convenient.

OCPP compliance

I would recommend buying a charger that supports the Open Charge Point Protocol (OCPP). This is a common protocol for communicating between your charger and the cloud API. It’s an open standard, and means that you can potentially connect to different back-end servers if the one provided by your charger’s manufacturer is no longer available. Considering that chargers typically cost a low four figure sum and need to be professionally installed, you don’t want to be in a position where you have to replace a perfectly good charger simply because its manufacturer has gone bust.

You can, if you wish, host your own OCPP server – Home Assistant users can install one from HACS. That way, you’re not at all reliant on a cloud service for managing your charger.

Variable rate charging

I know I bang on about having solar panels, but it’s a key reason why we’re considering an electric car, as it’ll essentially allow us to charge for free at home. However, the maximum output of our solar panels is 4.8 kW, which is less than the maximum output of a typical charger. So ideally, you want one where you can set it to charge more slowly, so that you only use your own solar energy and not additional electricity from the grid that you have to pay for.

Some chargers will also use a CT clamp to measure home energy use and vary the rate of charging to match. If there are lots of high load devices running, such as ovens or electric showers, then the car charger can automatically lower the power draw and charge more slowly.

Chargers for on-street parking

If your house has a drive, where you can park your car away from a public road, then you shouldn’t have any issues getting a charger installed at home. If you don’t, and you park your car on a public road, then you’ll need to check with your local authority regarding their rules. Some may insist on a groove being cut in the pavement to fit the cable in, so that it isn’t a trip hazard. Others will flat out refuse, and insist that you use public charging points.

Companies like Edion will sell you a cable protector for around £50 which should ensure that your cable isn’t a trip hazard, and there are also plenty available from Amazon (sponsored link) too. As someone who is quite passionate about accessibility, I would urge you to consider one of these if you have to lay a cable across a public right of way.