Home Assistant

Flashing Tuya smart plugs with Tasmota

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A photo of a Coosa smart plug, originally running Tuya firmware, and a USB to UART converter. This now runs ESPHome firmware.

Last year, I wrote about using a tool called tuya-convert to replace the firmware on my Tuya smart plugs. The firmware in question is Tasmota, which is an open source replacement firmware for devices with Espressif ESP chips. All my Tuya smart plugs have an ESP8266 chip, which can take custom firmware.

There are two ways of flashing Tasmota onto Tuya devices – an easy way, and a harder way.

There’s also a kind-of third ‘super-easy’ way, that I’ll mention towards the end.

tuya-convert – the easy way

I mentioned tuya-convert, which is a command line tool that exploits a vulnerability in older Tuya firmware to install Tasmota. You’ll need a computer such as a Raspberry Pi that has both Wi-Fi and Ethernet, and a smartphone. The tuya-convert tool then creates a hotspot that your Tuya devices can connect to when in pairing mode, and deploys the firmware wirelessly.

The key thing to emphasise here is that it only works with older firmware. Tuya patched the vulnerability in an update that came out some years ago, and indeed I’d already installed this on my smart plugs. That meant that tuya-convert could see the smart plugs, but couldn’t deploy the Tasmota firmware. So, I had to do it the hard way.

A photo of my hand holding some wires whilst flashing Tasmota onto a Tuya smart plug

Using a UART converter – the hard way

As you may have guessed from the photo above, the only way I was able to flash Tasmota onto these smart plugs was by taking one apart, and using a USB to UART converter with some jumper cables. If tuya-convert doesn’t work, then this is what you’ll need to do. You’ll need the following:

  • A USB to UART converter – I bought this one from AliExpress for the princely sum of £1.35.
  • Some Dupont Jumper cables – again, I bought these from AliExpress for £2.40. I picked up a big bag of male-male, female-female and male-female cables, but you only really need male-female cables if you want to save a few pence.
  • A computer with a USB port

I would also recommend the following:

  • Some electrical tape to hold things down
  • A USB extension cable

For the plugs that I was working with, I didn’t need a soldering iron, but some others may require it.

Disassembly and what’s inside

Firstly, it is very, very important that your smart plugs are not plugged into the mains while you do this, unless you want to burn yourself and/or your house down. We’ll be providing power via a different method, so make sure your device is not plugged in via the usual method. With my smart plugs, the positioning of the screws means it’s impossible for them to be plugged into the mains anyway.

Next, remove the screws from the plug. There were five on mine – the central one had to be removed first, and then the remaining four. Once that was done, I carefully separated the top and bottom of the housing.

The bottom part includes the high voltage AC circuitry. We’re not concerned with this and can leave it alone. What we’re interested in is the ancillary circuit board in the top part. It’s held in place by two small screws – you can remove these if you wish, but you can easily access the five pin holes that we need with the board still screwed in place.

The pin holes are as follows, with the first closest to the edge:

  • RX – data in
  • TX – data out
  • GND – ground
  • GPI00 – the pin hole that puts the smart plug into flashing mode
  • 5V – the 5 volt power input pin hole

Normally, ESP chips work at 3.3 volts, but there’s a converter chip elsewhere on the circuit board for these specific smart plug. Yours may be different, so check first to see if it’s 3.3 volts or 5 volts. The UART to USB converter that I have offers both, so we’ll use five volts for this.

Connecting the wires

Firstly, make sure your USB to UART converter is not plugged in to the computer. You’ll need to get your Dupont cables and connect them from your converter to the board. The pins on the converter should be labelled, so you need to connect them as follows:

  • From RX on the board to TXD on the converter
  • From TX on the board to RXD on the converter
  • From 5V on the board to 5V on the converter
  • From both GND and GPI00 on the board to GND on the converter

For this last one, I used three cables – two male-male cable from each of the GND and GPI00 ports on the board, and one female-male cable from the GND port on the converter – and then taped the pins at the end of the wires together. If it helps, there’s a standard wiring diagram on the Tasmota Getting Started page – although we’re connecting one additional wire (GPI00).

Getting read to flash Tasmota

Now that we’ve linked the converter to board, we can do the fun bit – flashing the device. There are several ways you can do this, of which I would recommend two:

  • Tasmotizer – this is a simple Windows program for flashing. The key advantage is that it can optionally download and backup the previous firmware, just in case you want to restore it later.
  • Tasmota Web Installer – this allows you to install Tasmota through your web browser, using WebSerial. As it stands, only desktop versions of Chrome, Edge and Opera support it, so you can’t use Firefox or Safari.

Personally, I had a better experience with the Web Installer, so this is what I used. Once you’ve opened your flashing tool, plug the USB to UART converter into your computer and then click ‘Connect’. Your browser will ask for your permission to link the web page with the COM port created by the converter, so you’ll need to grant permission.

Note: sometimes the COM port wouldn’t show for me in the browser. If this happens to you, try opening Device Manager, if using Windows, to ensure that the driver has installed correctly. If not, asking Device Manager to simply update the drivers should be enough. I had the most success if I opened the web page, connected the USB to UART converter and then clicked ‘Connect’ in that order.

If all is well, the web flasher will connect to your device, erase the existing firmware and then upload Tasmota. It’s a quick process – the binary file for Tasmota version 15 is only 655 kilobytes, so it’ll only take a couple of minutes at most.

If you get a connection error, try swapping the RX and TX cables over and then try again, and make sure that the light on the circuit board isn’t on or flashing. If the light is on, it’s a sign that you’ve not connected the GPI00 pin correctly.

Assuming that the flashing worked, you can take the jumper cables out and reassemble your device and plug it back in to the mains.

Configuring Tasmota

So, now that your device has been flashed, you need to configure Tasmota on the device. Get your phone out, and go to Wi-Fi settings. You should see a new Wi-Fi hotspot called ‘tasmota-something-something’, where the somethings are an alphanumeric string – connect to it. A hotspot login box should appear – if not, go to http://192.168.4.1/ in your phone’s web browser.

The first step is to connect Tasmota to your Wi-Fi network. Choose the network, or type it in, and provide the password. Tasmota will then connect, and, if successful, will redirect to its new IP address which it’ll display on screen. I suggest making a note of this.

You’ll now need to navigate to Tasmota’s new IP address in a web browser – you can do this on any device, not just your phone. The first thing we need to do is tell Tasmota what kind of device it has been installed on. The easiest way to do this is with a Template, and there are a huge range of templates listed here. I couldn’t find an exact match for mine, but the closest was this one, which gave me the following template code:

{"NAME":"Anoop SP15","GPIO":[0,0,0,0,56,21,0,0,0,17,0,0,0],"FLAG":0,"BASE":18}

To paste this template into Tasmota, I used this guide. From the Tasmota home screen, I clicked ‘Configuration’, then ‘Configure Other’, and pasted the whole string into the ‘Template’ field at the top. Tick the box that says ‘Activate’, and then the green Save button at the bottom. Tasmota will restart, and then you’ll find that your smart plug now works. Huzzah!

Integrating Tasmota with Home Assistant

If you want your newly Tasmotised smart plug to appear in Home Assistant, then there are a couple more steps that we need to take. Tasmota communicated with other devices using MQTT, so if you don’t already have MQTT set up in Home Assistant, you’ll need to do this. The easiest way is to install the Mosquitto addon; this will then suggest the MQTT integration for you.

Next, we need to create a user account for Tasmota to use with MQTT. In Home Assistant, open Settings, and then People. At the top, select ‘Users’, and then click the blue ‘add user’ button. Give them a username and password, and then save these details somewhere safe for the next step.

Back to Tasmota. Firstly, we need to change a setting to allow Home Assistant to automatically discover your new Tasmota device. From the Tasmota home screen, choose ‘Console’, and input the following command:

SetOption19 0

Press enter. Next, go back to the Tasmota home screen, and into ‘Configuration’ again. Select the ‘Configure MQTT’ option. In the first box, you’ll need to enter the IP address or local hostname for your Home Assistant installation. If you use Home Assistant OS, this is most likely to be ‘homeassistant.local’.

Next, we’ll need to enter the username and password for the MQTT account we created earlier. The rest of the fields can be left with their default values, unless you want to customise the name.

Back to Home Assistant. If this is your first Tasmota device, then you should receive a notification that a new Tasmota device was found, and that you need to install the Tasmota integration. Do this, and your device will now be available. If you add any further devices, these will automatically appear in the Tasmota integration once their MQTT settings have been configured.

And that’s it. You should now be able to control your devices without needing to use Tuya’s cloud services.

The super-easy way – pre-flashed Tasmota devices

If you don’t already own a suitable smart plug, but want to use Tasmota, my advice would be to buy a smart plug with Tasmota already flashed. Local Bytes sell pre-flashed Tasmota smart plugs, so you can skip the disassembly and flashing sections of this guide. Alternatively, try eBay, where these plugs can also be bought pre-flashed.

Personally, if I was in the market for a new smart plug, I would buy one that supports Zigbee or Matter. I’ve previously reviewed some Onvis Thread/Matter smart plugs, and some Meross Wi-Fi/Matter smart plugs.

That being said, I’m pleased to have been able to flash Tasmota on these smart plugs. I’m currently only using one of them, but I’ve been able to give them a new lease of life with about £5 of materials and an hour or so of my time. Indeed, the spare ones may well end up on eBay in due course for someone else to use. It’s far better than letting them become yet more e-waste.

What’s next

Last year I bought a Sonoff Wi-Fi RF Bridge, but was disappointed that it wouldn’t work the way that I expected it to. And getting it to work with Home Assistant was a bit of a pain, requiring a custom integration from HACS or an addon. I’ve already installed Tasmota on it, so it too has local control, and I’m looking at flashing the RF chip with a different custom firmware to make it more useful. That will probably require soldering and is for another future blog post, however.

Bifrost – a Hue smart light emulator

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A screenshot of the Bifrost logo

Today I’m writing about Bifrost, which is software that emulates a Philips Hue bridge for controlling smart light bulbs. It works with Zigbee2MQTT, and is designed to replicate the core Philips hardware using open source software.

Bifrost allows you to control any Zigbee smart lights (bulbs, strips etc) using the Philips Hue app, without needing to buy the Hue Bridge. The Hue bridge normally costs around £50 on Amazon (sponsored link). Instead, Bifrost can run on the same hardware as, say, Home Assistant, or an old an PC.

Setting up Bifrost

I’ve recently installed Bifrost on the same Raspberry Pi that hosts my Home Assistant instance (there’s an addon to make it easier). As it stands, it’s relatively new software, and so it has to be configured manually using a YAML file. You also need to be using Zigbee2MQTT, and have Zigbee smart bulbs – non-Zigbee devices aren’t supported, and nor is Home Assistant’s built in Zigbee controller. Also, Bifrost only works with lights – for example, I have a Zigbee smart plug which controls a light, and Bifrost ignores this.

The other thing to be aware of is that Hue uses ports 80 and 443, so if you want to use Bifrost, there can’t be any other software acting as a web server on the same machine. I had to pause my use of Nginx Proxy Manager to get it to work; thankfully, I’m now using Homeway for remote access to Home Assistant so this wasn’t an issue. Whilst you can tell Bifrost to open other ports instead, most Hue apps won’t work if you do this.

Once Bifrost is running and has found your Zigbee devices, you should be able to use the official Hue app to set up your lights. You’ll need to tell the app that your bridge doesn’t have a QR code; if all goes well, it’ll detect the Hue mDNS packets that Bifrost broadcasts, and it’ll then work just as if you had a genuine Hue bridge.

Benefits of the Hue app

The official Hue app has some features that other smart home apps don’t have – mainly the ‘Scene Gallery’. If you have multiple multi-colour lights in a particular room, Hue can offer to set them to different, but complementary colours.

It should be noted that, with Bifrost, you can use the Hue app to control (theoretically) any smart lights, regardless of whether they were manufactured by Philips or not. The multi-colour lights I have were a couple of cheap Tuya Zigbee strips from AliExpress, and they work fine in the Hue app through Bifrost.

Other Hue emulators

Bifrost isn’t the only emulator in town. There’s also DIY Hue, which, like Bifrost, can be installed using Docker or as a Home Assistant addon. There’s a comparison between Bifrost and DIY Hue here.

Home Assistant itself includes a Hue emulator. It’s an older integration that has to be configured using YAML, and it’s more limited. It probably won’t work with the official Hue app – I haven’t tried it myself. It’s mainly there as an easier way to bridge devices in Home Assistant into Amazon Alexa.

How to use bindings in Zigbee

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Screenshot of the Zigbee2MQTT interface showing a binding being set up

One advantage of the Zigbee smart home protocol that I didn’t mention in last summer’s comparison was Bindings. This is where you bind a function of one Zigbee device to another, allowing the first device to control the second device directly.

Zigbee, as you may be aware, is a mesh network protocol. That means that every Zigbee device will connect to every other Zigbee device in range. Now, every Zigbee network also has a Controller, which is a device that issues commands to the network. In my case, this is my Raspberry Pi running Home Assistant, with a Sonoff ZBDongle-E plugged into it.

The advantages of bindings

However, when you bind two devices together, they can issue commands directly, without needing to go via the Controller. This is useful, because it means that devices can still work, even if your Controller is offline.

For example, let’s say you have a Zigbee motion sensor in your bathroom. You can set up a binding so that, when the sensor detects motion, it’ll turn on the bathroom lights. Once the binding is saved, this will work regardless of whether your Zigbee controller is online.

The other key advantage of bindings is that they should be faster. We’re probably only talking micro-seconds here, but as commands can be sent directly from one device to another without a round-trip to the Controller, they should be a little more responsive.

If you’ve ever bought Ikea TrÃ¥dfri bulbs, these usually come with a remote that has already had a binding set up. That way, the remote will work with the bulb out of the box without an Ikea Dirigera hub (or other Zigbee controller). But both can also be paired with a Zigbee controller if you have one.

Setting up Zigbee bindings

If you use an off-the-shelf Zigbee controller like the aforementioned Ikea Dirigera hub, or a Philips Hue Bridge, then you may be able to set up bindings using these. I don’t, so I can’t advise, but bindings can be set up using Zigbee2MQTT (which I use) and Zigbee Home Automation in Home Assistant (which I don’t).

In Zigbee2MQTT, you need to select your device, and then go to the ‘Bind’ tab. It’ll then expose a list of ‘endpoints’ that can be bound. In my experience, these are just numbers, so you may need to experiment to see what, for example, ‘endpoint 242’ controls. You can then bind this to the endpoint of any other Zigbee device to control it.

It’s worth noting some key points here:

  1. Not all Zigbee devices support bindings
  2. Those that do may only allow expose limited endpoints for binding, so you won’t be able to control all aspects using bindings.

For example, I have some Zigbee colour lights (which I used in my grouping example). I can bind them to another Zigbee device to turn them on or off, but not to change the colour. That still requires communication from the Zigbee controller.

Other protocols

If you have more than one Z-Wave device, then you can set up ‘Associations‘ between devices which work in a similar way to Bindings in Zigbee. Home Assistant users can set these up using the Z-Wave JS UI addon. I’m not aware that Matter offers anything similar.

The new Areas dashboard in Home Assistant

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Last week saw the release of Home Assistant 2025.4, and with it, a new type of dashboard called Areas. This is an automatic dashboard, managed by Home Assistant itself, which displays your devices sorted by room, or ‘area’. At present, it’s ‘experimental’, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it becomes the default in future.

The default dashboard in Home Assistant is also automatically managed, but if you have more than a few devices and integrations, it can quickly become overwhelming. Therefore, my default dashboard is one that I manage myself. I can decide what to show, and in what order. However, it’s taken me quite some time to build and tweak that dashboard, and at one point I had almost 30 different cards showing. I’ve reduced that somewhat, and now use badges to highlight information that I need to know, but it still represents a significant investment of my time.

The new Areas dashboard therefore sits somewhere in the middle. The first tab shows an overview of your home, with sections for each ‘area’ that you have defined in Home Assistant. Most people will make each room an area, but it’s up to you – you may define parts of a room as a distinct area, for example. Personally, I’ve gone down the room = area paradigm, but I also have areas for ‘roof’ (where the solar panels are) and ‘outside’.

Setting up your home’s areas

You can set up your home’s Areas in the Settings pane in Home Assistant. When you do so, you can also specify any entities that represent the temperature and humidity in that room. This is useful, as these entities will then show up on your Areas dashboard.

Once you have defined your areas, you’ll need to add your devices to these areas. Again, in Settings, navigate to the Devices section. You can sort your devices by Area, so you’ll be able to see which ones are not allocated. Some of these ‘devices’ will represent virtual things, like HACS integrations or web services, so you don’t necessarily need to allocate these to a room.

A screenshot of the Home Assistant interface showing the options when adding a dashboard, including the new Areas dashboard

Adding the Areas dashboard

Again in Settings, you’ll need to open the Dashboards pane. Here you’ll typically see three dashboards there already. These will include your current default dashboard, the built-in energy dashboard and the built-in Map dashboard. At the bottom right, click ‘Add Dashboard’, and choose ‘Areas (experimental)’. Give it a title and an icon, and then enable to show in your sidebar. Once done, you’ll be able to access it at any time from the side bar.

Initially, every area that you have defined will have a section and a tab along the top. If you click the Pencil icon at the top right to edit, you can re-order the areas, and also make any invisible. You may want to do this if the dashboard doesn’t show anything useful for that particular area. If you click into each area, you can also hide any devices that you don’t want to see on the dashboard. For example, in my screenshot, each programme on my Bosch dishwasher shows as an individual entity; I can therefore hide all of those apart from the dishwasher’s power status if I want to.

The areas dashboard is still experimental

We’re only a week on from this feature having been made available in Home Assistant, and so it’s still ‘experimental’. In particular, you’ll only see a handful of devices on this dashboard. In my case, this includes lights, sockets, my dishwasher, my TV, media players, and thermostats.

But it’s a lot easier to set up and manage than it would to create a new dashboard from scratch. And it’s less overwhelming than the other default managed dashboard, which shows a huge amount of data. As time goes on, I hope that the Areas dashboard is developed further and becomes the new default. It’ll make Home Assistant feel more like other smart home apps like Google Home, and make it easier for new users to manage.

Dashboard Badges in Home Assistant

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A screenshot of the Home Assistant Lovelace dashboard showing several badges at the top of the home screen

One feature of Home Assistant that I’ve only recently started using is Dashboard Badges. These are small widgets that appear at the top of your dashboard, and allow you to view information at a glance. There’s a screenshot above which shows the widgets that I currently have set up.

Badges have been part of Home Assistant for a long time, but they received a major overhaul last August in version 2024.8. In the (approximately) 18 months that I’ve been using Home Assistant, I’ve been gradually adding more and more data to my dashboard, to the point where I had to scroll through several screens worth of data to see what I needed. Which isn’t ideal. Badges are a potential solution, showing basic information at the top, where it’s most accessible.

Each badge widget can usually display the state of one entity. In the screenshot above, I’ve included:

  • The temperature in our dining room, as recorded by our Nest thermostat
  • The current weather (it was, in fact, not raining when I took this screenshot)
  • The current power output of our solar panels
  • How much charge our solar battery currently has
  • The current status of our dishwasher
  • The current status of the TV in the living room
  • The current status of the sun
  • The latest version of Home Assistant

There’s a moderate amount of customisation available. For example, as well as the status of the entity, you can include its name, and this text is also customisable to save space if needed. You can also tweak the colours and the icons.

Controlling visibility of badges

One great feature that badges have in Home Assistant is controlling when they’re visible. I actually have more badges than the eight mentioned above, but they’re not showing as I don’t currently need the information offered. For example, I have a badge that displays whether an update to Home Assistant is available. But I only want to see this when an update is available – if I’m running the latest version, I want the badge to be hidden. Here’s how I configured it:

A screenshot of the Entity Badge configuration in Home Assistant

Having selected the widget, I’ve gone to the ‘Visibility’ tab, selected the entity, and told Home Assistant to only display it when the ‘State is equal to’ and ‘Update available’.

I use this on some other badges too. For example, if there’s no power coming from the solar panels, that badge disappears. Similarly, if my solar battery is at 20% or below, which is its idle state, that’s hidden too. You can also control the visibility based on which user is currently logged in, or anything really – the state of one entity can control the visibility of the badge for another.

A useful badge is one that makes use of the custom Octopus Energy integration from HACS, and will display if I haven’t used my Octopus Wheel of Fortune spins that month. Last month, I won 800 Octopoints, which was nice, and it’s helpful to have a reminder to use them.

By using badges, and setting their visibility, I’ve reduced the number of cards on my dashboard significantly. It makes the dashboard less overwhelming, and prioritises the most important information that I need to see quickly.

A tale of two dongles

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A photo of two dongles, both Sonoff ZBDongle E devices, labelled 'Zigbee' and 'Thread'.

I now have two dongles – both Sonoff ZBDongle E devices – connected to the Raspberry Pi which runs my Home Assistant instance. One is for Zigbee, and the other one is for Thread.

Last January, I wrote about how I was using both Zigbee and Thread on the same dongle. This uses ‘multi-protocol’ mode, and requires a Home Assistant addon which can differentiate between Zigbee and Thread data packets. However, this is no longer recommended:

During the further development and testing of the multiprotocol firmware, we have concluded that while Silicon Labs’ multiprotocol works, it comes with technical limitations. These limitations mean users will not have the best experience compared to using dedicated Zigbee and Thread radios. That is why we do not recommend using this firmware, and it will remain an experimental feature of Home Assistant Yellow and Home Assistant SkyConnect. If you currently have the multiprotocol firmware installed but don’t actively use it to connect to Thread devices, we recommend that you disable multiprotocol.

For the time being, I have been operating a single ZBDongle E just with Zigbee firmware. However, now that I have some Thread devices, I decided to buy a second dongle and flash that with Thread firmware, using this web flasher.

Now, my Thread smart plugs can be reached by Home Assistant without its own Thread dongle – I have a Google Nest Wi-Fi system which also acts as Thread Border Routers. Therefore, having a Thread dongle isn’t necessary – Home Assistant can see and interact with the devices using Google Nest Wi-Fi. But having a dedicated Thread dongle for Home Assistant does offer some advantages:

  • Thread is a mesh network, so adding another Thread device extends the mesh and should improve resilience.
  • It gives Home Assistant direct access to the Thread network.
  • It enables another Thread Border Router, offering an additional exit node.
  • The Home Assistant Thread Border Router addon includes a web interface, allowing you to view your network’s topology and get a visual representation of how the devices connect to each other.

You may also notice that I’ve labelled the two dongles so that I know which one is which, using my trusty Bluetooth label printer.

If you’re looking to buy your own Sonoff ZBDongle E, you can, of course, buy one from Amazon (sponsored link), but (whispers: they’re cheaper on AliExpress).

Just a note: I was unable to flash any updated firmware on the newer dongle that I bought this month, using the Web flasher, so that’s now the Zigbee dongle. Apparently it may be an issue with the Windows drivers, as I was able to use Home Assistant’s Silabs Firmware Flasher addon to update it instead. If you specify this custom URL in the addon settings, it’ll use the latest (as of November 2024) Zigbee firmware. It’s also worth noting that, if you use Zigbee2MQTT, once you’re running the latest Zigbee firmware, you’ll need to tell Zigbee2MQTT to use the new ’ember’ driver rather than ‘ezsp’.

The older dongle seemed to happy to accept different firmware using the web flasher, having done so in the past. So, that’s the one with the Thread firmware.

Grouping devices together in Home Assistant

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A screenshot of a Home Assistant dashboard showing a light group set to 50% brightness and a green colour

If you have several devices of the same type, and want to be able to control them all together, then it’s possible to group them together in Home Assistant. The integration is simply called ‘Group‘, and once configured, it creates a helper entity that will perform the same action on all grouped devices.

Last year, I picked up two Zigbee colour-changing LED strips from AliExpress. One was to go in our nine-year-old’s bedroom and the other in the living room – the idea being that we could set the colours depending on the time of year. Rather than having Christmas lights that we put up in December, and took down in January, these lights could stay up all year round. For example, they could be pink around Valentines Day, or green at Halloween.

That was the theory. However, despite ordering 3 metre long strips, they were too short. Our house is about 100 years old with tall ceilings, and consequently, tall windows. In the end, two LED strips together, totalling 6 metres, were long enough just for one window and so they’re both in our nine-year-old’s bedroom. Because they’re two separate strips, they appear and work as separate Zigbee devices.

Creating a group in Home Assistant

You can start the process of creating a group either on the Integrations or Helper screens of Home Assistant’s settings. First of all, Home Assistant will ask you what type of devices you are grouping – all the devices must be of the same type, so you can’t group a switch and a light together.

Well, actually you can – but first you need to create a ‘Change Device Type of a Switch’ helper. Say you have a smart plug controlling a light; you can then create a Helper that appears as a Light, and then that can be grouped with other lights.

Anyway, in my example, I selected Light, gave it a name, and then selected the entities that needed to belong to the group – i.e. the individual lights. There’s also a ‘Hide Members’ option, which will hide the devices you’ve selected from the list of entities in Home Assistant. If you’ll only ever want to interact with the lights as a group, then tick this. However, if you still want to be able to manage individual lights as well, then keep it unticked.

On my Home Assistant dashboard, the icon shows that the new group helper is for multiple lights. The good news is that, even with colour changing lights, all the lights in the group will respond the same way together once grouped.

I also make these lights available in Apple Home and Google Home, and again, I make sure that Home Assistant is exposing the group, rather than the individual lights. As such, when I use Google Assistant to turn them on and change the colour, both lights change simultaneously.

Homeway – easy remote access to Home Assistant

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Screenshot of the Homeway web site home page

Being able to access your Home Assistant instance outside of your home is useful, and there are many ways to do it – I’ve used several, including SWAG, an nginx proxy and more recently Nginx Proxy Manager. Today, I’m reviewing Homeway, a third-party service.

Setting up Homeway

Of all of the ways that you can enable remote access to Home Assistant, Homeway is one of the easiest. You sign up for an account on the Homeway web site, install an addon on your Home Assistant instance, and then you should be ready to go. Setting up the Home Assistant Companion App for iOS and Android is also supported, albeit with a little more work. If you don’t run Home Assistant OS or Supervised, and can’t install addons, then there’s also a Docker image or CLI client you can install.

Once up and running, it works well – you log in first to Homeway, and then into your local Home Assistant instance. It’s all done over SSL, without needing to set up DNS, port forwarding or reverse proxies.

Homeway also supports easy integration with Google Assistant and Amazon Alexa. Having done it myself, setting up Google Assistant manually is a chore, and even when it’s up and running, I found it slow and unreliable. Using Google Assistant this way is much easier, as you don’t need to create a developer account. I also found it to be much faster, and I haven’t had any issues with devices showing as offline.

If you want to use Home Assistant’s voice control feature, then Homeway also provides access to an AI large language model for processing commands. Its chatbot is called Sage, and behind the scenes it uses ChatGPT 4 and Anthropic’s Claude services. For speech-to-text, it can also call on Google Gemini and DeepSeek R1, and there’s a choice of 25 voices from the various services it uses. As I use Google Assistant, I haven’t set this up myself.

What about Home Assistant Cloud?

What Homeway offers is very similar to Home Assistant Cloud. Home Assistant Cloud is provided by Nabu Casa, who employ many of Home Assistant’s developers and support the Open Home Foundation. So why should one use Homeway instead of Home Assistant Cloud?

The answer is price. I’ve compared the prices in a table:

Monthly priceAnnual price
Home Assistant Cloud£6.50£65
Homeway£3.49£29.88

As you can see, Homeway is less than half the price of Nabu Casa’s Home Assistant Cloud. And, it should be noted that Homeway offers a free tier, if you just want remote access, albeit with data limits. You only need to pay for heavy usage and Google Assistant/Alexa access. There isn’t a free or lower-priced tier for Home Assistant Cloud.

That being said, as of January, Home Assistant Cloud now includes backup storage as well, which Homeway doesn’t currently offer. It’s also worth reiterating that some of the money from Home Assistant Cloud subscriptions goes to paying staff to work on Home Assistant development. As such, Homeway is a little controversial, and I noted that the Home Assistant Community on Reddit seems to block the word ‘homeway’ from posts.

For me, the best feature about Homeway is the Google Assistant support, which works well. I already have good remote access set up using Nginx Proxy Manager and will continue to use this.

Onvis Matter and Thread Smart Plug review

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A phg

I recently bought a pair of Onvis Matter Smart Plugs (sponsored link), as my first foray into smart devices that use a Thread network rather than Wi-Fi. These were to replace my remaining Tuya smart plugs, which use Wi-Fi.

I’m going to review the Onvis smart plugs, and talk about why I’ve chosen Matter and Thread smart plugs over Wi-Fi or Zigbee.

Why not Tuya?

I bought my Tuya smart plugs several years ago, when I didn’t know so much about smart home technologies. At the time, we’d only recently got a Google Home Mini, and so I picked up a cheap smart plug which happened to support Google Assistant and IFTTT, as well as Alexa. The other advantage of Tuya devices was that they could work without buying a hub as a controller, unlike Zigbee-based devices from the likes of Philips and Ikea. Bearing in mind that the hubs often cost at least £40, it’s a lot for when you just want one plug.

I wouldn’t buy a new Tuya Wi-Fi device nowadays, for the following reasons:

  • Wi-Fi devices use more power than others (Zigbee and Thread). Whilst we’re talking single digit numbers of watts here, having lots of Wi-Fi smart plugs around your home adds to your home’s ‘base load’ (sometimes known as a ‘phantom load’) of always on devices.
  • Tuya devices rely on Tuya’s servers to work. I understand that users based in Europe use servers located in Europe, but it means that every request has to make a round trip to their servers. This makes it slower than a system where commands can be actioned locally. Now, millions of Tuya devices have been sold over the years and I doubt that those servers would ever go offline, but if they did, any Tuya devices would lose their smart abilities.
  • Tuya is a Chinese company, so theoretically someone in the Chinese government could be logging every time you use a Tuya device. It’s a theoretical risk, but not having that data pinging across the internet in the first place is better for privacy.

The Tuya plugs that I have are also quite big, and not very sturdy.

Getting started with Thread

To use Thread devices, you need a Thread Border Router. Thankfully, I already have two, as they’re built into my Google Nest Wifi devices. You may also already have a Thread Border Router if you have some of the newer Google Nest Hub devices, a newer AppleTV or Apple HomePod, a newer Alexa device or a Samsung SmartThings Hub.

If you use Home Assistant, you can flash a Zigbee dongle to use Thread instead. Note that the blog post mentions enabling a ‘multi-protocol’ mode that allows you to use both Zigbee and Thread on the same dongle, but this isn’t recommended. As it is, my dongle just runs Zigbee nowadays but I may get a second dongle that I can flash Thread firmware onto. That way, Home Assistant has its own Thread Border Router, and it expands the Thread mesh network. Until then, Home Assistant is able to use the existing Thread mesh network that my Google Nest Wifi devices created – see How to join a preferred Thread network in Home Assistant for more.

A Tuya smart plug (on the left) next to a Onvis smart plug (on the right) both plugged in to a wall socket

Commissioning the Onvis smart plugs

When you get a new Matter device, it needs to be ‘commissioned’ to add it to your home network. You need to open the app for the smart home ecosystem you want to add it to (for example, Google Home, Apple Home or Home Assistant), select to add a new Matter device, and then scan a QR code on a label on the side of the device. In the case of these Onvis smart plugs, you also need to hold down the button for around 15 seconds to put them into commissioning mode. It helps to read the manual.

One of the reasons that I use smart plugs is that they’re controlling devices in awkward places, so I commissioned this in a place where I could sit comfortably with the devices plugged in, and then moved them to where they need to be. Otherwise, I’d be spending time crouched awkwardly in a corner.

Once commissioned, the Onvis plug will show up in the smart home app of your choice, and you’re done. I’ve been using them for a couple of days, and they seem to work well.

Why Matter and Thread?

So I’ve outlined why I wouldn’t use a Tuya device, but why have I chosen a device that uses Matter and Thread?

  • Thread devices only work locally. Whilst voice assistants like OK Google and Alexa may still need to use the internet to interpret what you say, they don’t need to send the actual commands across the internet. As well as protecting your privacy, it’s also faster; these Onvis Thread plugs seem to respond almost instantly, rather than at least half a second with the Tuya plugs.
  • The majority of Tuya devices do not work with Apple Home. This isn’t a massive problem for me, as although I use an iPhone and an iPad, I’m not a big Siri user. However, Matter devices are supported.
  • The idle power usage of these plugs should be lower than Wi-Fi.
  • As Thread is a mesh network, the more devices you add, the stronger the network becomes. It can also have multiple Thread Border Routers as exit points to your LAN/Wi-Fi network, so a network with several Thread devices and Border Routers should be very resilient.
  • Many of Apple’s newer iPhones (iPhone 15 and later), iPads and MacBooks include Thread radios, offering even more resilience if they’re connected to your Thread mesh network when at home.
  • I also think Matter is the future, although it’s taking longer than I would have anticipated for Matter devices to become mainstream.

These Onvis smart plugs are not the first Matter smart plugs that I’ve bought. Last year, I bought a pair of Meross Energy Monitoring smart plugs, although these use Matter over Wi-Fi rather than Matter over Thread.

Speaking of energy monitoring

It should be noted that these Onvis smart plugs do not support energy monitoring. They simply turn a socket on and off. Obviously, you can use automations in your choice of smart home ecosystems to set timers, or trigger them to turn on and off in relation to external events.

I’m noting this because it seems to be a common issue with these relatively early Matter devices – their Matter support is basic. With the Meross smart plugs for example, the Matter support is also limited to turning them on and off again. If you want to use their energy monitoring abilities, you have to use the Meross app, or install the Meross LAN integration from HACS for Home Assistant. These don’t use Matter and instead rely on Meross’ servers to send and receive data.

Price

I recently picked up a Zigbee smart plug for around £8 (including VAT) from AliExpress, which included energy monitoring. Seeing as these Onvis smart plugs don’t support energy monitoring, you may be surprised to find that they’re £25 each, or £40 for a pair (although as I write this, there are 15% off vouchers available on Amazon). So they are on the pricey side.

Which brings to the question about why I’m not just using Zigbee. After all, Zigbee is also a mesh network, and devices work locally. As it is, I have a small Zigbee network with the smart plug and a couple of colour-changing lights for our nine-year-old’s bedroom. And they work fine with Home Assistant. But then I have to use Home Assistant to make them appear in Google Home, and allow my Google Assistant devices to talk to them. Command fulfilment can be slow, taking a few seconds, and it’s unreliable – even when the Zigbee devices are obviously working, Google sometimes complains that they’re offline.

I suppose I could buy a Zigbee hub, like a Philips Hue or Ikea Dirigera, which would probably work better. But I already have Thread Border Router devices, and I’m hoping that Matter will mature as a standard.

Is £25 per Onvis plug worth it? Well, that’s up to you – but bear in mind that they work without needing a third-party app, will work with most smart home ecosystems, seem nice and sturdy and don’t rely on third-party internet servers. Hopefully, these Onvis smart plugs will be a good, long-term investment.

It’s also worth noting that these were the only Thread smart plugs that I could find on Amazon UK.

Screenshot of one of the Onvis smart plugs in Home Assistant

Matter Multi-Fabrics

One last thing to mention about Matter is its ‘multi-fabric’ feature, which allows you to add devices to multiple smart home ecosystems simultaneously. Initially, I’ve added all my Matter devices to Home Assistant, which has the Python Matter Server addon. On the device settings page, there’s a ‘Share Device’ button, which, when clicked, puts your device back into commissioning mode. You then get a new QR code in the Home Assistant interface, which you can use to add it to another smart home app like Google Home. You can then repeat the whole process for any other apps, like Apple Home.

This means that I have my Onvis smart plugs added to all three smart home apps, and they can be controlled by Home Assistant, Apple Home and Google Home. What’s particularly notable is that I was still able to control the lights in Apple Home whilst my Raspberry Pi running Home Assistant was restarting after an update.

Summary

Well, this ended up being a longer blog post that I’d expected. So, in summary:

  • The Onvis smart plugs work well, are sturdy, respond quickly and are compatible with most smart home ecosystems
  • They’re a bit pricey at £25 each, and don’t support energy monitoring
  • You need a Thread Border Router device for them to work, but you may already have one
  • They’re more energy efficient than Wi-Fi sockets, and don’t rely on third-party internet servers

As for what I’ll do with my old Tuya smart plugs? Well, I could convert them to run Tasmota I suppose.

Adventures with a Homey Pro

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A photo of the Homey Pro with ethernet adaptor

Recently, I’ve been reading about Dave2‘s adventures with his new Homey Pro, which he is using as his smart home controller. For context, Dave2 has tried to use devices certified for Apple HomeKit for years, and it’s been a struggle. Devices disappear randomly, automations fail to work, and so on.

The Homey Pro is an all-in-one smart home controller, supporting Zigbee, Matter, Z-Wave, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi (and optionally Ethernet), Infrared and RF devices, in one neat package. That’s basically every smart home protocol covered. There’s also the Homey Bridge, which is available separately to increase range, but it can also be bought separately.

Dave2 has written five blog posts about his journey: part one, part two, part three, part four and part five. If you’re considering buying a Homey Pro, I would suggest reading each one – especially if you’re moving away from Apple HomeKit.

How does the Homey Pro compare to Home Assistant?

As regular readers will know, I’ve basically gone all in on Home Assistant as a smart home controller. It works fine for me, and I like its do-it-yourself nature up to a point. Where Homey stands out is that everything is in one box, and, as far as I can tell, you don’t need to sign up for developer accounts to integrate services. That removes a large amount of friction which can be intimidating to new users. Home Assistant Cloud makes integration with Google Assistant and Alexa much easier, but it’s a paid add-on.

However, where Home Assistant stands out compared to Homey Pro is the number of integrations. Homey Pro offers a good range of apps, and has an open SDK. But there isn’t the same range as Home Assistant, and there doesn’t appear to be the equivalent of HACS to install additional integrations.

Whether Home Assistant or Homey Pro is right for you depends on how much time you have, and how much control you want. The Homey Pro will work much better out of the box, and it should be quicker and easier to get started with it. Home Assistant is definitely more complicated, even if you buy a device with the software pre-loaded, but it’s much more powerful and customisable.

One final thing to bare in mind is updates. Homey’s developers have committed to supporting the current Homey Pro model until January 2028, but that’s only three years away. They’ve also recently been acquired by LG, which may or may not be a good thing long-term. It should be noted, though, that in last month’s Home Assistant update (2024.11), LG contributed their own official ThingQ integration, so you can monitor your smart Kimchi refrigerator. Hopefully that means that Homey is in good hands.