Being able to access your Home Assistant instance outside of your home is useful, and there are many ways to do it – I’ve used several, including SWAG, an nginx proxy and more recently Nginx Proxy Manager. Today, I’m reviewing Homeway, a third-party service.
Setting up Homeway
Of all of the ways that you can enable remote access to Home Assistant, Homeway is one of the easiest. You sign up for an account on the Homeway web site, install an addon on your Home Assistant instance, and then you should be ready to go. Setting up the Home Assistant Companion App for iOS and Android is also supported, albeit with a little more work. If you don’t run Home Assistant OS or Supervised, and can’t install addons, then there’s also a Docker image or CLI client you can install.
Once up and running, it works well – you log in first to Homeway, and then into your local Home Assistant instance. It’s all done over SSL, without needing to set up DNS, port forwarding or reverse proxies.
Homeway also supports easy integration with Google Assistant and Amazon Alexa. Having done it myself, setting up Google Assistant manually is a chore, and even when it’s up and running, I found it slow and unreliable. Using Google Assistant this way is much easier, as you don’t need to create a developer account. I also found it to be much faster, and I haven’t had any issues with devices showing as offline.
If you want to use Home Assistant’s voice control feature, then Homeway also provides access to an AI large language model for processing commands. Its chatbot is called Sage, and behind the scenes it uses ChatGPT 4 and Anthropic’s Claude services. For speech-to-text, it can also call on Google Gemini and DeepSeek R1, and there’s a choice of 25 voices from the various services it uses. As I use Google Assistant, I haven’t set this up myself.
What about Home Assistant Cloud?
What Homeway offers is very similar to Home Assistant Cloud. Home Assistant Cloud is provided by Nabu Casa, who employ many of Home Assistant’s developers and support the Open Home Foundation. So why should one use Homeway instead of Home Assistant Cloud?
The answer is price. I’ve compared the prices in a table:
Monthly price
Annual price
Home Assistant Cloud
£6.50
£65
Homeway
£3.49
£29.88
As you can see, Homeway is less than half the price of Nabu Casa’s Home Assistant Cloud. And, it should be noted that Homeway offers a free tier, if you just want remote access, albeit with data limits. You only need to pay for heavy usage and Google Assistant/Alexa access. There isn’t a free or lower-priced tier for Home Assistant Cloud.
That being said, as of January, Home Assistant Cloud now includes backup storage as well, which Homeway doesn’t currently offer. It’s also worth reiterating that some of the money from Home Assistant Cloud subscriptions goes to paying staff to work on Home Assistant development. As such, Homeway is a little controversial, and I noted that the Home Assistant Community on Reddit seems to block the word ‘homeway’ from posts.
For me, the best feature about Homeway is the Google Assistant support, which works well. I already have good remote access set up using Nginx Proxy Manager and will continue to use this.
I recently bought a pair of Onvis Matter Smart Plugs(sponsored link), as my first foray into smart devices that use a Thread network rather than Wi-Fi. These were to replace my remaining Tuya smart plugs, which use Wi-Fi.
I’m going to review the Onvis smart plugs, and talk about why I’ve chosen Matter and Thread smart plugs over Wi-Fi or Zigbee.
Why not Tuya?
I bought my Tuya smart plugs several years ago, when I didn’t know so much about smart home technologies. At the time, we’d only recently got a Google Home Mini, and so I picked up a cheap smart plug which happened to support Google Assistant and IFTTT, as well as Alexa. The other advantage of Tuya devices was that they could work without buying a hub as a controller, unlike Zigbee-based devices from the likes of Philips and Ikea. Bearing in mind that the hubs often cost at least £40, it’s a lot for when you just want one plug.
I wouldn’t buy a new Tuya Wi-Fi device nowadays, for the following reasons:
Wi-Fi devices use more power than others (Zigbee and Thread). Whilst we’re talking single digit numbers of watts here, having lots of Wi-Fi smart plugs around your home adds to your home’s ‘base load’ (sometimes known as a ‘phantom load’) of always on devices.
Tuya devices rely on Tuya’s servers to work. I understand that users based in Europe use servers located in Europe, but it means that every request has to make a round trip to their servers. This makes it slower than a system where commands can be actioned locally. Now, millions of Tuya devices have been sold over the years and I doubt that those servers would ever go offline, but if they did, any Tuya devices would lose their smart abilities.
Tuya is a Chinese company, so theoretically someone in the Chinese government could be logging every time you use a Tuya device. It’s a theoretical risk, but not having that data pinging across the internet in the first place is better for privacy.
The Tuya plugs that I have are also quite big, and not very sturdy.
Getting started with Thread
To use Thread devices, you need a Thread Border Router. Thankfully, I already have two, as they’re built into my Google Nest Wifi devices. You may also already have a Thread Border Router if you have some of the newer Google Nest Hub devices, a newer AppleTV or Apple HomePod, a newer Alexa device or a Samsung SmartThings Hub.
If you use Home Assistant, you can flash a Zigbee dongle to use Thread instead. Note that the blog post mentions enabling a ‘multi-protocol’ mode that allows you to use both Zigbee and Thread on the same dongle, but this isn’t recommended. As it is, my dongle just runs Zigbee nowadays but I may get a second dongle that I can flash Thread firmware onto. That way, Home Assistant has its own Thread Border Router, and it expands the Thread mesh network. Until then, Home Assistant is able to use the existing Thread mesh network that my Google Nest Wifi devices created – see How to join a preferred Thread network in Home Assistant for more.
Commissioning the Onvis smart plugs
When you get a new Matter device, it needs to be ‘commissioned’ to add it to your home network. You need to open the app for the smart home ecosystem you want to add it to (for example, Google Home, Apple Home or Home Assistant), select to add a new Matter device, and then scan a QR code on a label on the side of the device. In the case of these Onvis smart plugs, you also need to hold down the button for around 15 seconds to put them into commissioning mode. It helps to read the manual.
One of the reasons that I use smart plugs is that they’re controlling devices in awkward places, so I commissioned this in a place where I could sit comfortably with the devices plugged in, and then moved them to where they need to be. Otherwise, I’d be spending time crouched awkwardly in a corner.
Once commissioned, the Onvis plug will show up in the smart home app of your choice, and you’re done. I’ve been using them for a couple of days, and they seem to work well.
Why Matter and Thread?
So I’ve outlined why I wouldn’t use a Tuya device, but why have I chosen a device that uses Matter and Thread?
Thread devices only work locally. Whilst voice assistants like OK Google and Alexa may still need to use the internet to interpret what you say, they don’t need to send the actual commands across the internet. As well as protecting your privacy, it’s also faster; these Onvis Thread plugs seem to respond almost instantly, rather than at least half a second with the Tuya plugs.
The majority of Tuya devices do not work with Apple Home. This isn’t a massive problem for me, as although I use an iPhone and an iPad, I’m not a big Siri user. However, Matter devices are supported.
The idle power usage of these plugs should be lower than Wi-Fi.
As Thread is a mesh network, the more devices you add, the stronger the network becomes. It can also have multiple Thread Border Routers as exit points to your LAN/Wi-Fi network, so a network with several Thread devices and Border Routers should be very resilient.
Many of Apple’s newer iPhones (iPhone 15 and later), iPads and MacBooks include Thread radios, offering even more resilience if they’re connected to your Thread mesh network when at home.
I also think Matter is the future, although it’s taking longer than I would have anticipated for Matter devices to become mainstream.
It should be noted that these Onvis smart plugs do not support energy monitoring. They simply turn a socket on and off. Obviously, you can use automations in your choice of smart home ecosystems to set timers, or trigger them to turn on and off in relation to external events.
I’m noting this because it seems to be a common issue with these relatively early Matter devices – their Matter support is basic. With the Meross smart plugs for example, the Matter support is also limited to turning them on and off again. If you want to use their energy monitoring abilities, you have to use the Meross app, or install the Meross LAN integration from HACS for Home Assistant. These don’t use Matter and instead rely on Meross’ servers to send and receive data.
Price
I recently picked up a Zigbee smart plug for around £8 (including VAT) from AliExpress, which included energy monitoring. Seeing as these Onvis smart plugs don’t support energy monitoring, you may be surprised to find that they’re £25 each, or £40 for a pair (although as I write this, there are 15% off vouchers available on Amazon). So they are on the pricey side.
Which brings to the question about why I’m not just using Zigbee. After all, Zigbee is also a mesh network, and devices work locally. As it is, I have a small Zigbee network with the smart plug and a couple of colour-changing lights for our nine-year-old’s bedroom. And they work fine with Home Assistant. But then I have to use Home Assistant to make them appear in Google Home, and allow my Google Assistant devices to talk to them. Command fulfilment can be slow, taking a few seconds, and it’s unreliable – even when the Zigbee devices are obviously working, Google sometimes complains that they’re offline.
I suppose I could buy a Zigbee hub, like a Philips Hue or Ikea Dirigera, which would probably work better. But I already have Thread Border Router devices, and I’m hoping that Matter will mature as a standard.
Is £25 per Onvis plug worth it? Well, that’s up to you – but bear in mind that they work without needing a third-party app, will work with most smart home ecosystems, seem nice and sturdy and don’t rely on third-party internet servers. Hopefully, these Onvis smart plugs will be a good, long-term investment.
It’s also worth noting that these were the only Thread smart plugs that I could find on Amazon UK.
Matter Multi-Fabrics
One last thing to mention about Matter is its ‘multi-fabric’ feature, which allows you to add devices to multiple smart home ecosystems simultaneously. Initially, I’ve added all my Matter devices to Home Assistant, which has the Python Matter Server addon. On the device settings page, there’s a ‘Share Device’ button, which, when clicked, puts your device back into commissioning mode. You then get a new QR code in the Home Assistant interface, which you can use to add it to another smart home app like Google Home. You can then repeat the whole process for any other apps, like Apple Home.
This means that I have my Onvis smart plugs added to all three smart home apps, and they can be controlled by Home Assistant, Apple Home and Google Home. What’s particularly notable is that I was still able to control the lights in Apple Home whilst my Raspberry Pi running Home Assistant was restarting after an update.
Summary
Well, this ended up being a longer blog post that I’d expected. So, in summary:
The Onvis smart plugs work well, are sturdy, respond quickly and are compatible with most smart home ecosystems
They’re a bit pricey at £25 each, and don’t support energy monitoring
You need a Thread Border Router device for them to work, but you may already have one
They’re more energy efficient than Wi-Fi sockets, and don’t rely on third-party internet servers
Recently, I’ve used Resolver to handle a couple of complaints that I have had with companies, such as the firm that provides water in Yorkshire. As I mentioned on Monday, we’ve had some water supply issues recently and this has resulted in some expenses for us.
Resolver works by managing the complaint for you. It sends your complaint using a unique email address, and notifies you of responses. You can also upload evidence, and keep these in a ‘case file’ to keep track of documents. If the company you’re complaining to doesn’t respond, then it’ll help you escalate the complaint to more senior people in the company.
The thing I like best about Resolver is that it helps you write your complaint in a structured way. Instead of one long free text field, you get a series of prompts, asking you to write:
what the problem is
its impact on you
what resolution you are seeking
You’ll also be prompted for important information like customer reference numbers, which will hopefully make things easier for the staff handling your complaint. Before your message is sent, you’ll have the opportunity to review and tweak it.
Resolver supports a wide range of companies across a number of sectors. Utility firms are there, as are telecoms companies, parking firms, insurance and financial services companies, and many others. Even my employer is there. Resolver was quite popular when PPI was mis-sold, as it allowed customers to manage their claims themselves, rather than engaging a claims management firm to do so (and who would take a cut of any compensation). Resolver is free to use, as it’s supported by advertising.
So far I’ve used Resolver twice, with one case resolved. I don’t often have the need to complain, but when I’ve used it, it has made the process easier.
I did this last year, and found it interesting to look back at the various statistics of things that I have done over the year. So, here it is again for 2024. It helps that loads of web sites now offer their own version of Spotify Wrapped.
Countries and counties visited
In 2024, I didn’t visit any countries besides England where I live.
Over the course of the year, I have spent at least some time in the following English counties:
West Yorkshire
North Yorkshire
South Yorkshire
Lincolnshire
Greater Manchester
Lancashire
Cheshire
Norfolk
Northumberland
County Durham
Merseyside
Greater London
West Midlands
This doesn’t include any counties that I have passed through without stopping. Compared to last year, I didn’t go to Leicestershire, Northamptonshire, Hertfordshire, Surrey or Hampshire, but I did go to Northumberland, County Durham, Merseyside, Greater London and the West Midlands which were all counties that I didn’t go to in 2023.
For context, I went as far east as 2023, but further north and (slightly) further west. However, as we didn’t go to France this year, I went significantly less far south.
Methods of transport used
Because we didn’t take our car to France, I didn’t drive as much this year – about 8000 miles, or 20% less than last year.
However, I have done more train travel. As well as my commute to work, we took the train to London in March. I have driven once in London and vowed never again; not least because our car is a diesel and therefore subject to additional charges inside the ULEZ. I also took our nine-year-old to Leeds last week on the train.
We’ve also been on trams a couple of times in Manchester – we tend to drive to Hollinwood tram stop and use Metrolink as a park and ride service. And whilst we didn’t cross the channel by ferry this year, we did cross the Mersey by ferry instead. Once again, no aeroplane flights in 2024.
Music listened to
Over the year, I scrobbled 12,671 tracks on last.fm, so slightly down on the 13,194 from 2023 (and 13,447 from 2022). That’s almost 35 songs per day, again down by about one a day from 2023. Assuming an average song is around three minutes, I listen to almost two hours of music every day on average. Spotify reckons that I listened to 436 minutes, or just over 7 hours of music on the 25 October.
Whilst I don’t exclusively listen to music on Spotify, on there, pop was my top genre, following by trance, rock, pop dance and Europop this year, according to my Spotify Wrapped. My most-listened to song was ‘React’ by Switch Disco featuring Ella Henderson and Robert Miles, which I listened to 14 times. Which is unsurprising as it’s one of our nine-year-old’s favourite songs, and samples Robert Miles’ ‘Children’.
My top artist was Armin van Buuren, which surprised me but there’s almost always one of his songs in my weekly Release Radar playlist. The rest of my top five were Patty Gurdy (blog post), Madam Misfit (blog post), David Guetta and Dua Lipa. I listened to 4,235 different bands and artists over the course of the year.
Books read and listened to
According to My Goodreads Year in Books for 2024, I read 77 books this year – 16 fewer than 2023. This amounts to 17,845 pages (although many of these were listened to as audiobooks).
The shortest book I read, at 32 pages long, was ‘The Giraffe, The Pelly and Me’ by Roald Dahl(sponsored link) – clearly, one of the books that I read to our nine-year-old this year. Meanwhile, I listened to 15 and a half hours of Nicola Coughlan reading ‘The Shadow Cabinet’ by Juno Dawson(sponsored link), which translates to 528 pages and the longest book. That’s longer in terms of pages than my longest book last year (‘What Just Happened?!’ by Marina Hyde(sponsored link) – 472 pages) but shorter in terms of listening time (17 hours).
Overall, the average length of book that I read was 231 pages, which is 11 more than 2023. Matt Haig’s ‘The Midnight Library’(sponsored link) was the most popular book that I read last year.
Beers and ciders consumed
I log the beers and ciders that I drink using Untappd, and these stats are from my year in beer. However, I only logged 11 such drinks this year (compared to 58 in 2022). I just haven’t been particularly interested in drinking beer and cider this year, and it’s notable that my favourite style was ‘non-alcoholic’.
Steps taken
My total steps taken was very similar to 2023. Overall I took 3,526,369 steps, which is 5% less than 2023 and means that, on average, I walked just under 10,000 steps per day. Overall that’s almost 2,600 kilometres (again down by around 100 compared to 2023). These are all tracked using my Fitbit Versa 3.
Time spent learning French
I started Duolingo’s French course on the 1st January 2022 (so I have a three year streak now), and in 2024, I spent 4,228 minutes learning – that’s 70 hours or an average of 12 minutes per day. Again, slightly down on 2023, but then we didn’t go to France this year. I also managed to remain in the Diamond League for the entire year, and successfully completed every friends quest and monthly challenge.
My Duolingo Score for French is 100, which means that I’m in the low B2 level (‘vantage’) of the CEFR for French. Currently Duolingo’s maximum score for French is 130, which is high B2 level and should be sufficient to study a university course taught in French. I’m hoping to achieve that by the end of 2025, although there’s a possibility of us going on holiday somewhere else which may see me switch languages for a bit.
Podcasts listened to
I listen to the majority of my podcasts through Overcast (with the remainder in BBC Sounds). My most listened to podcast was RHLSTP (RHLSTP!) with 78 hours over the year. The Guilty Feminist, The Comedian’s Comedian, The Bugle and The Infinite Monkey Cage make up the rest of my top 5. ‘Reasons Revisited’ is the now defunct podcast which was hosted by Ed Milliband and Geoff Lloyd; now that Ed is a government minister again, there are no more new episodes.
Tracking my podcast listening is a relatively new feature in Overcast and so this is a new statistic that I didn’t track in 2023.
Photos taken
Another new statistic that I didn’t track in 2023 was number of photos taken. It’s an estimate – basically it’s the total number of images backed up from my phone to Dropbox over the year. That could also include screenshots, memes and a few videos. Overall, it was 1,813 in 2024, compared to 1,417 in 2023. So whilst I may have been less active, listened to less music and not been abroad, I did take around 28% more photos in 2024.
So, that’s 2024 quantified, and a useful summary of the statistics from various web services that seem to spend their December telling me data they hold about me but in a nice way. I suppose I need to get a bit active in 2025 then.
Recently, I’ve been reading about Dave2‘s adventures with his new Homey Pro, which he is using as his smart home controller. For context, Dave2 has tried to use devices certified for Apple HomeKit for years, and it’s been a struggle. Devices disappear randomly, automations fail to work, and so on.
The Homey Pro is an all-in-one smart home controller, supporting Zigbee, Matter, Z-Wave, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi (and optionally Ethernet), Infrared and RF devices, in one neat package. That’s basically every smart home protocol covered. There’s also the Homey Bridge, which is available separately to increase range, but it can also be bought separately.
Dave2 has written five blog posts about his journey: part one, part two, part three, part four and part five. If you’re considering buying a Homey Pro, I would suggest reading each one – especially if you’re moving away from Apple HomeKit.
How does the Homey Pro compare to Home Assistant?
As regular readers will know, I’ve basically gone all in on Home Assistant as a smart home controller. It works fine for me, and I like its do-it-yourself nature up to a point. Where Homey stands out is that everything is in one box, and, as far as I can tell, you don’t need to sign up for developer accounts to integrate services. That removes a large amount of friction which can be intimidating to new users. Home Assistant Cloud makes integration with Google Assistant and Alexa much easier, but it’s a paid add-on.
However, where Home Assistant stands out compared to Homey Pro is the number of integrations. Homey Pro offers a good range of apps, and has an open SDK. But there isn’t the same range as Home Assistant, and there doesn’t appear to be the equivalent of HACS to install additional integrations.
Whether Home Assistant or Homey Pro is right for you depends on how much time you have, and how much control you want. The Homey Pro will work much better out of the box, and it should be quicker and easier to get started with it. Home Assistant is definitely more complicated, even if you buy a device with the software pre-loaded, but it’s much more powerful and customisable.
Bytemark announced that its BigV platform was being retired, as it’s reaching the end of its operational life, and offered to transfer me to HostingUK. They’re both now owned by the same parent company, IOMart. Price-wise, I’m still paying the same amount per month for a very similar package as before.
Hopefully, you won’t have noticed any issues with the changeover. It seemed to go really smoothly from my end – I’ve had far more issues in the past, but then I was significantly more prepared this time
On the new host, I’ve built a new virtual machine, rather than simply copying the entire image over. It’s still based on Debian Linux, with Sympl providing the hosting environment. Sympl, incidentally, is forked from Bytemark’s own Symbiosis project which is no longer in development.
I then copied over the data from the old image to the new one – both the data files and a dump of the MariaDB database. Then all I had to do was wait for the DNS to switch over. Indeed, it felt like an anti-climax – apart from renewing some login tokens and some DNS tweaks, I’ve not needed to do much tinkering following the switchover.
If you’re a Home Assistant user who is getting started with Zigbee devices, then you may be tempted to just use Zigbee Home Automation (ZHA), Home Assistant’s built-in Zigbee implementation. But you may also want to consider Zigbee2MQTT as an alternative, and this blog post will explain the differences.
Low power, so battery-powered Zigbee devices shouldn’t need their batteries replacing too often.
It’s a mesh protocol, so every mains-powered Zigbee device forms a mesh with each other, allowing a network to span a house without necessarily needing multiple access points like Wi-Fi.
It works locally, so it’s more secure and private than Wi-Fi.
If you’re new to Zigbee and/or Home Assistant, my recommendation is to use ZHA, which is Home Assistant’s built-in implementation. If you plug your Zigbee dongle in, Home Assistant should detect it, and offer to configure the ZHA integration for you. Then, you just add devices using the ‘Add Integrations’ button on the Integrations Settings page, where a new ‘Add Zigbee device’ option will appear at the top.
Home Assistant should be able to recognise and offer to add any Zigbee device, but what you may find is that some devices won’t have any entities. This means that it’s not supported by ZHA. There’s a database of Zigbee devices which you can use to check whether they’re supported by ZHA or Zigbee2MQTT, and what you may notice is that there are quite a few which ZHA doesn’t support.
Zigbee2MQTT
One of the devices that I’ve recently bought seemingly fell into this latter category. To be fair, I never checked it with ZHA, but reading reviews online suggested that it would only work with Zigbee2MQTT and not ZHA. Zigbee2MQTT also maintains its own list of supported devices, which currently number nearly 4000.
Getting Zigbee2MQTT set up with Home Assistant is a much more involved process, however. You’ll need to install two addons and an integration:
Firstly, you’ll need to install the Mosquitto addon, which is an MQTT broker – essentially a server which handles the MQTT messages. This is available from the standard Home Assistant add-on store. There are other brokers available, but this one is most recommended for use with Home Assistant.
Next, you’ll need to install the MQTT integration. Once Mosquitto is running, Home Assistant may automatically detect it, and offer to install this for you, but if not you’ll need to install it manually.
Finally, there’s the Zigbee2MQTT addon to install. This isn’t available from the standard Home Assistant add-on store until you add a custom repository.
Once all of these are installed, you’ll need to disable the ZHA integration if it’s enabled, and then open the Zigbee2MQTT web interface. Go into the settings, and ensure that it’s pointing at the Mosquitto MQTT server that you set up in step one above – you may need to enter its IP address.
You’ll then need to add devices using the Zigbee2MQTT web interface – there’s a button at the top right where you can enable pairing. Any devices you add will then show up automatically under the MQTT integration in Home Assistant.
Once set up, Zigbee2MQTT seems to work well, and I’ve seen others state that they’ve found it more stable than ZHA. But it’s a lot more difficult to set up, and ZHA will probably work for most users. If you’re new to all this, my advice would be to try ZHA first, and then re-pair your devices with Zigbee2MQTT if it doesn’t work out.
If you’ve been reading this blog for a while, you’ll know that we have solar panels which are connected to an inverter from the Chinese company Solax. Recently, I asked for the firmware on our inverter to be updated, as part of some testing I’m assisting with for an app. Unfortunately, in doing so, it’s broken the Home Assistant integration.
As per the integration page:
Inverter models with newer firmware (and also those using devices like PocketWifi) no longer expose an API when connected to your wireless network, they do however continue to expose it on their own broadcasted SSID. To use this sensor in this case it is necessary to set up a reverse proxy with something like NGINX and use a Raspberry Pi (or similar) with two network connections (one being Wi-Fi that connects to the inverters SSID).
Sure enough, a scan of available Wi-fi networks showed a new unsecured SSID with my inverter’s serial number. Now I’m not beyond setting up a reverse proxy (I have Nginx Proxy Manager running) but this would require purchasing an additional Raspberry Pi, potentially with an additional USB Wi-fi adaptor or HomePlug adaptor.
Annoyingly, the inverter does still connect to my home Wi-fi network, and it’s possible to access a web-based portal by popping the inverter’s IP address into a web browser. But it no longer offers a local, real-time API over REST.
All aboard the Modbus
That’s the bad news. The good news is that it’s still possible to connect to the inverter using the Modbus protocol. Now, Modbus is old. Like, really old. Like, older than me old. Like, old enough to be a grandfather old. Like… well, you get the picture – it was originally developed in 1979 for use over serial connections. Thankfully Modbus can also work over TCP/IP on port 502, so I don’t need to run a very long serial cable and dig out my old USB to RS232 adaptor. Yes, I still have a USB to RS232 adaptor somewhere. I’m only a few years younger than Modbus.
Also, Modbus sounds like a bus full of really cool people wearing 1960s fashion and listening to The Who, although arguably they should be on Lambretta scooters. This is where I would ask Microsoft Copilot to create an image of this, but I’ll probably end up using the equivalent electricity to power a provincial English town trying to get it to generate what I’ve pictured in my mind.
Home Assistant natively supports Modbus, and if you have a spare half hour you can read everything on that page. Suffice to say, you have to set it up using YAML and know the Modbus specification of the device you’re communicating with. You probably don’t want to do this.
HACS to the rescue
The good news is that there’s a HACS integration for Solax Modbus. Once you have HACS installed, search for Solax and it’s (currently) the only one that comes up. Install it, restart Home Assistant, and then add the integration. There will be lots of input boxes pre-filled with default values – leave these be. The only thing you need to enter is the IP address for your inverter.
Once set up, the integration added loads of new entities for my inverter to Home Assistant. In fact, it seems like there were far more than before. The data isn’t strictly speaking ‘real-time’, but it polls every 15 seconds and so might as well be.
So that’s the good news. You can have the latest firmware on your inverter, and have it work locally with Home Assistant, without having to purchase another device to act as a reverse proxy. The bad news is that you’ll need to update any dashboards that you have set up to point to the new entities.
Looking to the cloud
The official way of accessing your inverter’s data and status is using the Solax Cloud, either online or through the official app. From there, there is an official API for interacting with this data. But it’s not real-time – updates happen every five minutes. And I can see why some people won’t want their data uploading to the cloud.
There isn’t a Home Assistant integration for Solax Cloud, either in the core product or through HACS. But someone has written their own YAML code to communicate with the Cloud API, should you wish to use this, although it also relies on the REST API which seems to have been deprecated from newer firmware versions.
Getting the latest Solax firmware
If you do want to update the firmware on your Solax inverter, there’s a handy guide here. The easiest and safest way is to contact Solax support and ask them to do it for you; they can log into your inverter remotely and run the upgrade. I hadn’t realised this until Home Assistant suddenly stopped being able to communicate with the REST API on my inverter. There are other ways of obtaining the firmware, and you can upload it yourself to your inverter’s local web portal, but it’s probably best for Solax to do this for you. Considering our solar panels, battery and inverter cost a five figure sum to install, it’s not something that I want to accidentally brick.
As for the app I mentioned in the first paragraph? I’ll talk about it once it’s released.
In recent years, it seems like the IT industry has changed how it names the various Wi-fi standards, with a move away from their IEEE names to a simplified version numbering system. This blog post is mostly me trying to get my head around what the old and new version numbers are, and the fact that Wi-fi 7 devices are starting to come onto the market.
Wi-fi version 1 (802.11b)
The first time I used Wi-fi would have been around 2003/4, and it was with a PCMCIA card that I slotted into my Toshiba laptop. 802.11b was the first version to launch in Europe, and offered speeds of up to 11 Mbps. By current standards, that’s really slow, but I was still using 56k dial-up in my university accommodation and my parents’ ‘broadband’ internet was only 512Kbps. A wireless, multi-megabit per second connection was pretty awesome.
Wi-fi version 2 (802.11a)
This would be a good time to note that versions 1, 2 and 3 of Wi-fi have never officially carried this designation, and would explain why standard A comes after standard B. IEEE 802.11a offered faster speeds – 45Mbps – but on the 5Ghz frequency band which wasn’t yet approved for Europe. Consequently, I never knowingly used any Wi-fi devices that used the 802.11a standard.
Wi-fi version 3 (802.11g)
The IEEE numbering jumped from B to G (standards C, D, E and F exist but aren’t relevant here) and this brought the 45 Mbps speeds of version 2 on the 2.4Ghz frequency band of version 1. This also saw me buy a new PCMCIA card for the same laptop, to be able to access the faster speeds, and use WPA encrypted networks rather than the weaker WEP security standard.
Some ‘Wireless-G’ routers offered ‘MIMO’ – multiple input and multiple output – which meant multiple antennae, and faster speeds, with up to 300 Mbps claimed. However, this usually required owning both a router and a Wi-Fi dongle by the same manufacturer and so wasn’t universal.
Wi-fi version 4 (802.11n)
With approval of the 5Ghz frequency band in Europe, 802.11n devices, first launched in 2009, could use both. The higher frequency band offers more bandwidth, but at the cost of shorter range and lower compatibility, hence the need to offer both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz. The other big improvement came with mandating MIMO for all Wi-Fi 4 certified devices. Top speeds also jumped up as high as 600Mbps. This is the first standard to officially have a version number allocated by the Wi-Fi Alliance.
Wi-fi version 5 (802.11ac)
The IEEE numbering rolled over, and started back at A again with a second letter in 2013. I guess this may have been what prompted the Wi-Fi Alliance to start using its own numbering system, although it and Wi-Fi 4 were both named retrospectively. Interesting Wi-Fi 5 only works on the 5Ghz band (like Wi-Fi 2), and devices needing the 2.4Ghz band fall back to Wi-Fi 4. Again, there’s a boost in speeds, up to almost 7Gbps.
Both my Vodafone router and Google Wi-Fi system support up to Wi-Fi 5.
Wi-Fi version 6 (802.11ax)
This was the first version to launch with its version number from the Wi-Fi Alliance. It’s a much newer standard, from as recently as 2021, and boosts speeds up to almost 10Gbps. As with Wi-Fi 4, it operates on both the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz bands, but there’s a sub-version called Wi-Fi 6E that introduces the 6Ghz band for the first time. The only device I have that supports this is my iPhone 13 Mini.
Wi-Fi version 7 (802.11be)
The 802.11be standard hasn’t been fully ratified by the IEEE but products supporting Wi-Fi 7 are already on sale, at the time of writing (October 2024). Therefore, if you’re willing to pay a premium to get a Wi-Fi 7 certified device now, make sure it’s from a well-known manufacturer, and that you update its firmware once the standard is fully ratified. Top speeds are now up to a theoretical 23Gbps which is just mind-blowing.
Wi-Fi version 8 (802.11bn)
In 2028, the next Wi-Fi version is expected to be ratified by the IEEE. We can potentially expect speeds as high as 100Gbps, and as with Wi-Fi 6E and 7, it’ll use the 2.4, 5 and 6Ghz bands.
Hopefully if you’re an old school techie like me, this will help you work out how the branded Wi-Fi Alliance numbers correlate with the IEEE standards.
Last week, I wrote about HACS, the Home Assistant Community Store, which allows many additional community-provided integrations to be installed into Home Assistant. This week, I’m going to list those that I use.
DVLA Vehicle Enquiry Service
The DVLA Vehicle Enquiry Service allows you to monitor the publicly-available data about any UK car. When you set up the integration, you input a registration number, and it’ll download the data from the DVLA’s database. This includes useful information like when the car’s MOT is due, or when the car tax expires – these can be automatically added to a calendar widget on your Home Assistant dashboard.
HASS Agent
The HASS Agent integration allows you to use HASS Agent, a Windows desktop utility for managing Home Assistant. Once set up, you can configure automations to shut down your Windows computer, receive notifications, or monitor its state.
Nest Protect
We have a Nest Protect smart smoke alarm, which isn’t supported by the built-in Nest integration in Home Assistant. Google hasn’t made a public API for it, and so to integrate it with Home Assistant, you need to use this HACS integration. This is a good example of why an integration is in HACS and not Home Assistant core; setting it up requires you to log in to your Nest account in a private window, and then use Google Chrome’s developer tools to essentially ‘steal’ the cookies so that Home Assistant can hijack the same browser session.
Google has talked about adding the Nest Protect to its Google Home app for years, meaning that the standalone Nest app can be retired. But it hasn’t happened yet. When it does, perhaps there will be a proper API, and this will be available in Home Assistant core.
Timer Bar Card
This is a new card for your dashboard, which creates a progress bar for sensors that have a countdown. I use this for our Bosch dishwasher, so that as well as showing how long it has left, it shows visually how complete the washing cycle is.
Meross LAN
We have a pair of Meross energy monitoring smart plugs, and although they support Matter, to be able to do more than just turn them on and off, I need to use the Meross LAN integration. It supports both HTTP and MQTT communication, and will work both using Meross’ cloud MQTT servers and your own local MQTT broker, if you have one. Once set up, you can use the energy monitoring sensors in Home Assistant.
Octopus Energy
We get our gas and electricity from Octopus Energy (referral link, you’ll get £50 off your first bill if you sign up), and they have an API that any customer can use. The Octopus Home Asssitant integration lets you bring your meter data into Home Assistant, and you can set up automations to opt you in automatically to any energy saving sessions. The data is updated daily, unless you have a Octopus Home Mini which can provide realtime data for electricity, and half-hourly data for gas.
As well as offering some of the best unit rates for energy export, the fact that Octopus offers an API means that just about every UK geek that I know uses them. They also seem a lot easier to deal with than other energy suppliers we’ve used in the past.
