Internet Things

2024, quantified

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I did this last year, and found it interesting to look back at the various statistics of things that I have done over the year. So, here it is again for 2024. It helps that loads of web sites now offer their own version of Spotify Wrapped.

Countries and counties visited

In 2024, I didn’t visit any countries besides England where I live.

Over the course of the year, I have spent at least some time in the following English counties:

  • West Yorkshire
  • North Yorkshire
  • South Yorkshire
  • Lincolnshire
  • Greater Manchester
  • Lancashire
  • Cheshire
  • Norfolk
  • Northumberland
  • County Durham
  • Merseyside
  • Greater London
  • West Midlands

This doesn’t include any counties that I have passed through without stopping. Compared to last year, I didn’t go to Leicestershire, Northamptonshire, Hertfordshire, Surrey or Hampshire, but I did go to Northumberland, County Durham, Merseyside, Greater London and the West Midlands which were all counties that I didn’t go to in 2023.

Most distant points

The furthest compass points I have been to are:

For context, I went as far east as 2023, but further north and (slightly) further west. However, as we didn’t go to France this year, I went significantly less far south.

Methods of transport used

Because we didn’t take our car to France, I didn’t drive as much this year – about 8000 miles, or 20% less than last year.

However, I have done more train travel. As well as my commute to work, we took the train to London in March. I have driven once in London and vowed never again; not least because our car is a diesel and therefore subject to additional charges inside the ULEZ. I also took our nine-year-old to Leeds last week on the train.

We’ve also been on trams a couple of times in Manchester – we tend to drive to Hollinwood tram stop and use Metrolink as a park and ride service. And whilst we didn’t cross the channel by ferry this year, we did cross the Mersey by ferry instead. Once again, no aeroplane flights in 2024.

My top 5 songs from Spotify Wrapped, which are 'React' by Switch Disco, 'Since U Been Gone' by Kelly Clarkson, 'Melodies of Hope' by Patty Gurdy, 'On The Floor' by Jennifer Lopez and 'What The Hell' by Avril Lavigne

Music listened to

Over the year, I scrobbled 12,671 tracks on last.fm, so slightly down on the 13,194 from 2023 (and 13,447 from 2022). That’s almost 35 songs per day, again down by about one a day from 2023. Assuming an average song is around three minutes, I listen to almost two hours of music every day on average. Spotify reckons that I listened to 436 minutes, or just over 7 hours of music on the 25 October.

Whilst I don’t exclusively listen to music on Spotify, on there, pop was my top genre, following by trance, rock, pop dance and Europop this year, according to my Spotify Wrapped. My most-listened to song was ‘React’ by Switch Disco featuring Ella Henderson and Robert Miles, which I listened to 14 times. Which is unsurprising as it’s one of our nine-year-old’s favourite songs, and samples Robert Miles’ ‘Children’.

My top artist was Armin van Buuren, which surprised me but there’s almost always one of his songs in my weekly Release Radar playlist. The rest of my top five were Patty Gurdy (blog post), Madam Misfit (blog post), David Guetta and Dua Lipa. I listened to 4,235 different bands and artists over the course of the year.

Books read and listened to

According to My Goodreads Year in Books for 2024, I read 77 books this year – 16 fewer than 2023. This amounts to 17,845 pages (although many of these were listened to as audiobooks).

The shortest book I read, at 32 pages long, was ‘The Giraffe, The Pelly and Me’ by Roald Dahl (sponsored link) – clearly, one of the books that I read to our nine-year-old this year. Meanwhile, I listened to 15 and a half hours of Nicola Coughlan reading ‘The Shadow Cabinet’ by Juno Dawson (sponsored link), which translates to 528 pages and the longest book. That’s longer in terms of pages than my longest book last year (‘What Just Happened?!’ by Marina Hyde (sponsored link) – 472 pages) but shorter in terms of listening time (17 hours).

Overall, the average length of book that I read was 231 pages, which is 11 more than 2023. Matt Haig’s ‘The Midnight Library’ (sponsored link) was the most popular book that I read last year.

A downloaded image from my Untappd Year in Beer, showing my average rating, checkins, and top rated beers.

Beers and ciders consumed

I log the beers and ciders that I drink using Untappd, and these stats are from my year in beer. However, I only logged 11 such drinks this year (compared to 58 in 2022). I just haven’t been particularly interested in drinking beer and cider this year, and it’s notable that my favourite style was ‘non-alcoholic’.

Steps taken

My total steps taken was very similar to 2023. Overall I took 3,526,369 steps, which is 5% less than 2023 and means that, on average, I walked just under 10,000 steps per day. Overall that’s almost 2,600 kilometres (again down by around 100 compared to 2023). These are all tracked using my Fitbit Versa 3.

A screenshot from my Duolingo Year in Review which states that I am a top 1% French learner

Time spent learning French

I started Duolingo’s French course on the 1st January 2022 (so I have a three year streak now), and in 2024, I spent 4,228 minutes learning – that’s 70 hours or an average of 12 minutes per day. Again, slightly down on 2023, but then we didn’t go to France this year. I also managed to remain in the Diamond League for the entire year, and successfully completed every friends quest and monthly challenge.

My Duolingo Score for French is 100, which means that I’m in the low B2 level (‘vantage’) of the CEFR for French. Currently Duolingo’s maximum score for French is 130, which is high B2 level and should be sufficient to study a university course taught in French. I’m hoping to achieve that by the end of 2025, although there’s a possibility of us going on holiday somewhere else which may see me switch languages for a bit.

A shareable image from Overcast showing my top 6 podcasts this year

Podcasts listened to

I listen to the majority of my podcasts through Overcast (with the remainder in BBC Sounds). My most listened to podcast was RHLSTP (RHLSTP!) with 78 hours over the year. The Guilty Feminist, The Comedian’s Comedian, The Bugle and The Infinite Monkey Cage make up the rest of my top 5. ‘Reasons Revisited’ is the now defunct podcast which was hosted by Ed Milliband and Geoff Lloyd; now that Ed is a government minister again, there are no more new episodes.

Tracking my podcast listening is a relatively new feature in Overcast and so this is a new statistic that I didn’t track in 2023.

Photos taken

Another new statistic that I didn’t track in 2023 was number of photos taken. It’s an estimate – basically it’s the total number of images backed up from my phone to Dropbox over the year. That could also include screenshots, memes and a few videos. Overall, it was 1,813 in 2024, compared to 1,417 in 2023. So whilst I may have been less active, listened to less music and not been abroad, I did take around 28% more photos in 2024.

So, that’s 2024 quantified, and a useful summary of the statistics from various web services that seem to spend their December telling me data they hold about me but in a nice way. I suppose I need to get a bit active in 2025 then.

Adventures with a Homey Pro

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A photo of the Homey Pro with ethernet adaptor

Recently, I’ve been reading about Dave2‘s adventures with his new Homey Pro, which he is using as his smart home controller. For context, Dave2 has tried to use devices certified for Apple HomeKit for years, and it’s been a struggle. Devices disappear randomly, automations fail to work, and so on.

The Homey Pro is an all-in-one smart home controller, supporting Zigbee, Matter, Z-Wave, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi (and optionally Ethernet), Infrared and RF devices, in one neat package. That’s basically every smart home protocol covered. There’s also the Homey Bridge, which is available separately to increase range, but it can also be bought separately.

Dave2 has written five blog posts about his journey: part one, part two, part three, part four and part five. If you’re considering buying a Homey Pro, I would suggest reading each one – especially if you’re moving away from Apple HomeKit.

How does the Homey Pro compare to Home Assistant?

As regular readers will know, I’ve basically gone all in on Home Assistant as a smart home controller. It works fine for me, and I like its do-it-yourself nature up to a point. Where Homey stands out is that everything is in one box, and, as far as I can tell, you don’t need to sign up for developer accounts to integrate services. That removes a large amount of friction which can be intimidating to new users. Home Assistant Cloud makes integration with Google Assistant and Alexa much easier, but it’s a paid add-on.

However, where Home Assistant stands out compared to Homey Pro is the number of integrations. Homey Pro offers a good range of apps, and has an open SDK. But there isn’t the same range as Home Assistant, and there doesn’t appear to be the equivalent of HACS to install additional integrations.

Whether Home Assistant or Homey Pro is right for you depends on how much time you have, and how much control you want. The Homey Pro will work much better out of the box, and it should be quicker and easier to get started with it. Home Assistant is definitely more complicated, even if you buy a device with the software pre-loaded, but it’s much more powerful and customisable.

One final thing to bare in mind is updates. Homey’s developers have committed to supporting the current Homey Pro model until January 2028, but that’s only three years away. They’ve also recently been acquired by LG, which may or may not be a good thing long-term. It should be noted, though, that in last month’s Home Assistant update (2024.11), LG contributed their own official ThingQ integration, so you can monitor your smart Kimchi refrigerator. Hopefully that means that Homey is in good hands.

Hello from a new host

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Screenshot of the home page of the HostingUK web site

As of Monday, I’m hosting this blog with a new hosting company: HostingUK. Previously, I’ve been with Bytemark, having migrated there almost 15 years ago. And, for almost ten years, this blog has been on Bytemark’s BigV platform.

Bytemark announced that its BigV platform was being retired, as it’s reaching the end of its operational life, and offered to transfer me to HostingUK. They’re both now owned by the same parent company, IOMart. Price-wise, I’m still paying the same amount per month for a very similar package as before.

Hopefully, you won’t have noticed any issues with the changeover. It seemed to go really smoothly from my end – I’ve had far more issues in the past, but then I was significantly more prepared this time

On the new host, I’ve built a new virtual machine, rather than simply copying the entire image over. It’s still based on Debian Linux, with Sympl providing the hosting environment. Sympl, incidentally, is forked from Bytemark’s own Symbiosis project which is no longer in development.

I then copied over the data from the old image to the new one – both the data files and a dump of the MariaDB database. Then all I had to do was wait for the DNS to switch over. Indeed, it felt like an anti-climax – apart from renewing some login tokens and some DNS tweaks, I’ve not needed to do much tinkering following the switchover.

Comparing Zigbee2MQTT with ZHA

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A screenshot of the Zigbee2MQTT home page

If you’re a Home Assistant user who is getting started with Zigbee devices, then you may be tempted to just use Zigbee Home Automation (ZHA), Home Assistant’s built-in Zigbee implementation. But you may also want to consider Zigbee2MQTT as an alternative, and this blog post will explain the differences.

I’ve recently started looking into Zigbee devices. Back in July, I wrote about the different smart home protocols, and Zigbee offers some useful features:

  • Low power, so battery-powered Zigbee devices shouldn’t need their batteries replacing too often.
  • It’s a mesh protocol, so every mains-powered Zigbee device forms a mesh with each other, allowing a network to span a house without necessarily needing multiple access points like Wi-Fi.
  • It works locally, so it’s more secure and private than Wi-Fi.

If you have Philips Hue bulbs, Ikea Tradfri devices or any Hive products from British Gas, then you’re probably already using Zigbee devices. You also have a private Zigbee network if you have a smart meter, although you won’t be able to use this with your own devices. I’m using a Sonoff USB Zigbee dongle (sponsored link), which is plugged into the Raspberry Pi which runs Home Assistant. Previously, I had flashed it with custom firmware to enable support for Thread and Zigbee, but I’ve reverted that now as multiprotocol support is experimental, and I have Google Wi-Fi devices which support Thread if needed.

Zigbee Home Automation (ZHA)

If you’re new to Zigbee and/or Home Assistant, my recommendation is to use ZHA, which is Home Assistant’s built-in implementation. If you plug your Zigbee dongle in, Home Assistant should detect it, and offer to configure the ZHA integration for you. Then, you just add devices using the ‘Add Integrations’ button on the Integrations Settings page, where a new ‘Add Zigbee device’ option will appear at the top.

Home Assistant should be able to recognise and offer to add any Zigbee device, but what you may find is that some devices won’t have any entities. This means that it’s not supported by ZHA. There’s a database of Zigbee devices which you can use to check whether they’re supported by ZHA or Zigbee2MQTT, and what you may notice is that there are quite a few which ZHA doesn’t support.

Zigbee2MQTT

One of the devices that I’ve recently bought seemingly fell into this latter category. To be fair, I never checked it with ZHA, but reading reviews online suggested that it would only work with Zigbee2MQTT and not ZHA. Zigbee2MQTT also maintains its own list of supported devices, which currently number nearly 4000.

Getting Zigbee2MQTT set up with Home Assistant is a much more involved process, however. You’ll need to install two addons and an integration:

  1. Firstly, you’ll need to install the Mosquitto addon, which is an MQTT broker – essentially a server which handles the MQTT messages. This is available from the standard Home Assistant add-on store. There are other brokers available, but this one is most recommended for use with Home Assistant.
  2. Next, you’ll need to install the MQTT integration. Once Mosquitto is running, Home Assistant may automatically detect it, and offer to install this for you, but if not you’ll need to install it manually.
  3. Finally, there’s the Zigbee2MQTT addon to install. This isn’t available from the standard Home Assistant add-on store until you add a custom repository.

Once all of these are installed, you’ll need to disable the ZHA integration if it’s enabled, and then open the Zigbee2MQTT web interface. Go into the settings, and ensure that it’s pointing at the Mosquitto MQTT server that you set up in step one above – you may need to enter its IP address.

You’ll then need to add devices using the Zigbee2MQTT web interface – there’s a button at the top right where you can enable pairing. Any devices you add will then show up automatically under the MQTT integration in Home Assistant.

Once set up, Zigbee2MQTT seems to work well, and I’ve seen others state that they’ve found it more stable than ZHA. But it’s a lot more difficult to set up, and ZHA will probably work for most users. If you’re new to all this, my advice would be to try ZHA first, and then re-pair your devices with Zigbee2MQTT if it doesn’t work out.

So long, Solax local API

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A screenshot of the Home Assistant web site showing the information page for the Solax integration.

If you’ve been reading this blog for a while, you’ll know that we have solar panels which are connected to an inverter from the Chinese company Solax. Recently, I asked for the firmware on our inverter to be updated, as part of some testing I’m assisting with for an app. Unfortunately, in doing so, it’s broken the Home Assistant integration.

As per the integration page:

Inverter models with newer firmware (and also those using devices like PocketWifi) no longer expose an API when connected to your wireless network, they do however continue to expose it on their own broadcasted SSID. To use this sensor in this case it is necessary to set up a reverse proxy with something like NGINX and use a Raspberry Pi (or similar) with two network connections (one being Wi-Fi that connects to the inverters SSID).

Home Assistant Solax Power integration
A screenshot of the Wi-Fi network selection screen on iOS 8, showing an unsecured network for the Solax inverter.

Sure enough, a scan of available Wi-fi networks showed a new unsecured SSID with my inverter’s serial number. Now I’m not beyond setting up a reverse proxy (I have Nginx Proxy Manager running) but this would require purchasing an additional Raspberry Pi, potentially with an additional USB Wi-fi adaptor or HomePlug adaptor.

Annoyingly, the inverter does still connect to my home Wi-fi network, and it’s possible to access a web-based portal by popping the inverter’s IP address into a web browser. But it no longer offers a local, real-time API over REST.

All aboard the Modbus

That’s the bad news. The good news is that it’s still possible to connect to the inverter using the Modbus protocol. Now, Modbus is old. Like, really old. Like, older than me old. Like, old enough to be a grandfather old. Like… well, you get the picture – it was originally developed in 1979 for use over serial connections. Thankfully Modbus can also work over TCP/IP on port 502, so I don’t need to run a very long serial cable and dig out my old USB to RS232 adaptor. Yes, I still have a USB to RS232 adaptor somewhere. I’m only a few years younger than Modbus.

Also, Modbus sounds like a bus full of really cool people wearing 1960s fashion and listening to The Who, although arguably they should be on Lambretta scooters. This is where I would ask Microsoft Copilot to create an image of this, but I’ll probably end up using the equivalent electricity to power a provincial English town trying to get it to generate what I’ve pictured in my mind.

Home Assistant natively supports Modbus, and if you have a spare half hour you can read everything on that page. Suffice to say, you have to set it up using YAML and know the Modbus specification of the device you’re communicating with. You probably don’t want to do this.

HACS to the rescue

The good news is that there’s a HACS integration for Solax Modbus. Once you have HACS installed, search for Solax and it’s (currently) the only one that comes up. Install it, restart Home Assistant, and then add the integration. There will be lots of input boxes pre-filled with default values – leave these be. The only thing you need to enter is the IP address for your inverter.

Once set up, the integration added loads of new entities for my inverter to Home Assistant. In fact, it seems like there were far more than before. The data isn’t strictly speaking ‘real-time’, but it polls every 15 seconds and so might as well be.

So that’s the good news. You can have the latest firmware on your inverter, and have it work locally with Home Assistant, without having to purchase another device to act as a reverse proxy. The bad news is that you’ll need to update any dashboards that you have set up to point to the new entities.

Looking to the cloud

The official way of accessing your inverter’s data and status is using the Solax Cloud, either online or through the official app. From there, there is an official API for interacting with this data. But it’s not real-time – updates happen every five minutes. And I can see why some people won’t want their data uploading to the cloud.

There isn’t a Home Assistant integration for Solax Cloud, either in the core product or through HACS. But someone has written their own YAML code to communicate with the Cloud API, should you wish to use this, although it also relies on the REST API which seems to have been deprecated from newer firmware versions.

Getting the latest Solax firmware

If you do want to update the firmware on your Solax inverter, there’s a handy guide here. The easiest and safest way is to contact Solax support and ask them to do it for you; they can log into your inverter remotely and run the upgrade. I hadn’t realised this until Home Assistant suddenly stopped being able to communicate with the REST API on my inverter. There are other ways of obtaining the firmware, and you can upload it yourself to your inverter’s local web portal, but it’s probably best for Solax to do this for you. Considering our solar panels, battery and inverter cost a five figure sum to install, it’s not something that I want to accidentally brick.

As for the app I mentioned in the first paragraph? I’ll talk about it once it’s released.

Wi-fi version numbers

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The Wi-fi 7 logo

In recent years, it seems like the IT industry has changed how it names the various Wi-fi standards, with a move away from their IEEE names to a simplified version numbering system. This blog post is mostly me trying to get my head around what the old and new version numbers are, and the fact that Wi-fi 7 devices are starting to come onto the market.

Wi-fi version 1 (802.11b)

The first time I used Wi-fi would have been around 2003/4, and it was with a PCMCIA card that I slotted into my Toshiba laptop. 802.11b was the first version to launch in Europe, and offered speeds of up to 11 Mbps. By current standards, that’s really slow, but I was still using 56k dial-up in my university accommodation and my parents’ ‘broadband’ internet was only 512Kbps. A wireless, multi-megabit per second connection was pretty awesome.

Wi-fi version 2 (802.11a)

This would be a good time to note that versions 1, 2 and 3 of Wi-fi have never officially carried this designation, and would explain why standard A comes after standard B. IEEE 802.11a offered faster speeds – 45Mbps – but on the 5Ghz frequency band which wasn’t yet approved for Europe. Consequently, I never knowingly used any Wi-fi devices that used the 802.11a standard.

Wi-fi version 3 (802.11g)

The IEEE numbering jumped from B to G (standards C, D, E and F exist but aren’t relevant here) and this brought the 45 Mbps speeds of version 2 on the 2.4Ghz frequency band of version 1. This also saw me buy a new PCMCIA card for the same laptop, to be able to access the faster speeds, and use WPA encrypted networks rather than the weaker WEP security standard.

Some ‘Wireless-G’ routers offered ‘MIMO’ – multiple input and multiple output – which meant multiple antennae, and faster speeds, with up to 300 Mbps claimed. However, this usually required owning both a router and a Wi-Fi dongle by the same manufacturer and so wasn’t universal.

Wi-fi version 4 (802.11n)

With approval of the 5Ghz frequency band in Europe, 802.11n devices, first launched in 2009, could use both. The higher frequency band offers more bandwidth, but at the cost of shorter range and lower compatibility, hence the need to offer both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz. The other big improvement came with mandating MIMO for all Wi-Fi 4 certified devices. Top speeds also jumped up as high as 600Mbps. This is the first standard to officially have a version number allocated by the Wi-Fi Alliance.

Wi-fi version 5 (802.11ac)

The IEEE numbering rolled over, and started back at A again with a second letter in 2013. I guess this may have been what prompted the Wi-Fi Alliance to start using its own numbering system, although it and Wi-Fi 4 were both named retrospectively. Interesting Wi-Fi 5 only works on the 5Ghz band (like Wi-Fi 2), and devices needing the 2.4Ghz band fall back to Wi-Fi 4. Again, there’s a boost in speeds, up to almost 7Gbps.

Both my Vodafone router and Google Wi-Fi system support up to Wi-Fi 5.

Wi-Fi version 6 (802.11ax)

This was the first version to launch with its version number from the Wi-Fi Alliance. It’s a much newer standard, from as recently as 2021, and boosts speeds up to almost 10Gbps. As with Wi-Fi 4, it operates on both the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz bands, but there’s a sub-version called Wi-Fi 6E that introduces the 6Ghz band for the first time. The only device I have that supports this is my iPhone 13 Mini.

Wi-Fi version 7 (802.11be)

The 802.11be standard hasn’t been fully ratified by the IEEE but products supporting Wi-Fi 7 are already on sale, at the time of writing (October 2024). Therefore, if you’re willing to pay a premium to get a Wi-Fi 7 certified device now, make sure it’s from a well-known manufacturer, and that you update its firmware once the standard is fully ratified. Top speeds are now up to a theoretical 23Gbps which is just mind-blowing.

Wi-Fi version 8 (802.11bn)

In 2028, the next Wi-Fi version is expected to be ratified by the IEEE. We can potentially expect speeds as high as 100Gbps, and as with Wi-Fi 6E and 7, it’ll use the 2.4, 5 and 6Ghz bands.

Hopefully if you’re an old school techie like me, this will help you work out how the branded Wi-Fi Alliance numbers correlate with the IEEE standards.

My chosen HACS integrations

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Last week, I wrote about HACS, the Home Assistant Community Store, which allows many additional community-provided integrations to be installed into Home Assistant. This week, I’m going to list those that I use.

DVLA Vehicle Enquiry Service

The DVLA Vehicle Enquiry Service allows you to monitor the publicly-available data about any UK car. When you set up the integration, you input a registration number, and it’ll download the data from the DVLA’s database. This includes useful information like when the car’s MOT is due, or when the car tax expires – these can be automatically added to a calendar widget on your Home Assistant dashboard.

HASS Agent

The HASS Agent integration allows you to use HASS Agent, a Windows desktop utility for managing Home Assistant. Once set up, you can configure automations to shut down your Windows computer, receive notifications, or monitor its state.

Nest Protect

We have a Nest Protect smart smoke alarm, which isn’t supported by the built-in Nest integration in Home Assistant. Google hasn’t made a public API for it, and so to integrate it with Home Assistant, you need to use this HACS integration. This is a good example of why an integration is in HACS and not Home Assistant core; setting it up requires you to log in to your Nest account in a private window, and then use Google Chrome’s developer tools to essentially ‘steal’ the cookies so that Home Assistant can hijack the same browser session.

Google has talked about adding the Nest Protect to its Google Home app for years, meaning that the standalone Nest app can be retired. But it hasn’t happened yet. When it does, perhaps there will be a proper API, and this will be available in Home Assistant core.

Timer Bar Card

This is a new card for your dashboard, which creates a progress bar for sensors that have a countdown. I use this for our Bosch dishwasher, so that as well as showing how long it has left, it shows visually how complete the washing cycle is.

Meross LAN

We have a pair of Meross energy monitoring smart plugs, and although they support Matter, to be able to do more than just turn them on and off, I need to use the Meross LAN integration. It supports both HTTP and MQTT communication, and will work both using Meross’ cloud MQTT servers and your own local MQTT broker, if you have one. Once set up, you can use the energy monitoring sensors in Home Assistant.

Octopus Energy

We get our gas and electricity from Octopus Energy (referral link, you’ll get £50 off your first bill if you sign up), and they have an API that any customer can use. The Octopus Home Asssitant integration lets you bring your meter data into Home Assistant, and you can set up automations to opt you in automatically to any energy saving sessions. The data is updated daily, unless you have a Octopus Home Mini which can provide realtime data for electricity, and half-hourly data for gas.

As well as offering some of the best unit rates for energy export, the fact that Octopus offers an API means that just about every UK geek that I know uses them. They also seem a lot easier to deal with than other energy suppliers we’ve used in the past.

HACS – community components for Home Assistant

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A screenshot of the HACS web site

Whilst Home Assistant is already the most flexible smart home platform, with hundreds of built-in integrations, HACS is an optional additional tool to add even more integrations.

HACS stands for ‘Home Assistant Community Store’, and it allows you to download and install custom components from the wider Home Assistant community. It’ll also keep them updated for you. Home Assistant has long supported so-called ‘custom components’, which allows functionality beyond the standard built-in integrations, but HACS makes finding, installing and updating these much easier.

A couple of weeks ago, version 2.0 of HACS was released. This includes a new addon for those using Home Assistant Operating System or Supervised mode, which makes it easier to install. Updates are now handled via Cloudflare for improved performance.

As well as additional integrations, HACS also allows you to install different cards for your dashboards, and different themes. For example, Mushroom is a set of replacement cards which some prefer the look of.

Compared to the built-in integrations, which are maintained by the Home Assistant project, those in HACS are maintained by the community. This means that they may not be tested as rigorously as the official integrations, and so it’s important that you have regular backups in case things go wrong. Also, expect more bugs.

As for why integrations are only in HACS and not Home Assistant itself, there are a few reasons:

  1. It’s a niche service that may only apply to one country, or is of limited wider use.
  2. It uses scraping – this is where there isn’t a publicly available API for the service and so it scrapes the contents of web pages to work. These aren’t permitted in core Home Assistant integrations.
  3. It’s still in active development and not ready to be merged into the main Home Assistant release.
  4. It duplicates the functionality of a core Home Assistant integration but does so in a different way.

I’m currently using eight custom integrations through HACS, and I’ll discuss these in a later blog post. If you’re a Home Assistant user and haven’t already checked out HACS, have a look to see if you can extend its features even further.

Creating a Bluetooth proxy with ESPHome

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A photo of an m5stack Atom Lite which has been flashed with ESPHome firmware to act as a Bluetooth Proxy for Home Assistant

My latest Home Assistant project has been creating a Bluetooth Proxy – a device that essentially extends the range of my Raspberry Pi’s Bluetooth signal. To do this, I’ve purchased a small device with a ESP32 chip on, and flashed it with firmware from ESPHome.

Okay, so that introduction has a lot of jargon. Allow me to break it down a little.

What is a Bluetooth proxy?

Because Bluetooth connections are point-to-point, you can’t use range extenders like you can with Wifi, Zigbee and Thread networks. That means that any Bluetooth devices that you want to connect to Home Assistant need to be in range of the device that you’re running Home Assistant on. I recently moved my Raspberry Pi to a different location, which meant that it was out of range of one of my Bluetooth thermometers.

A Bluetooth proxy acts as a kind-of bridge between Bluetooth and Wi-Fi. You place the proxy device within range of the Bluetooth devices that you want to connect to Home Assistant, and connect it to your home Wi-Fi network. Once set up, Home Assistant should see your Bluetooth devices as if they were in range.

If you’re running Home Assistant Container, then a Bluetooth proxy may also be easier to set up than a USB Bluetooth dongle. Passing USB devices into a Docker image doesn’t always work well.

It’s worth noting here that Bluetooth proxies are just a Home Assistant ‘thing’. They won’t help you connect a Bluetooth speaker to, say, a smartphone that’s out of range. Also, you can’t buy a device that works as a Bluetooth proxy out of the box. Seriously, if you go onto Amazon and search for ‘Bluetooth proxy’ (sponsored link), all you will get is results for Bluetooth adaptors and development boards with ESP32 chips.

The M5Stack Atom Lite

Whilst there are lots of boards that you can buy, a good option is the M5Stack Atom Lite (also available from AliExpress, where I got mine). This is because it comes with a plastic case, and connects easily using a USB-C cable. You could buy a different board and make your own case for it, but I don’t have a lot of time right now and don’t own a 3D printer. Besides, it costs less than £10 delivered.

The device is tiny – about the size of a 50p piece, and less than a centimetre thick. Because it’s a development board, it also comes with several pins to connect to other devices, but these aren’t necessary if you’re just using it as a Bluetooth proxy. Inside, is the Espressif ESP32 chip.

There are other ESP32-based products in the M5Stack Atom range, that add (for example) a microphone or GPS chip, but again, we don’t need these for a simple Bluetooth proxy.

Installing ESPHome

ESPHome is a sister project to Home Assistant, as they’re both managed by the Open Home Foundation. It’s similar to Tasmota, which I’ve blogged about before, in that they’re both custom firmware packages that you can flash onto ESP devices. Whilst Tasmota and ESPHome can do many of the same things, if you want a Bluetooth proxy then you’ll need to use ESPHome as Tasmota doesn’t support it.

Probably the easiest way to install ESPHome is using one of the ready-made projects. These can be flashed directly from your web browser, as long as you’re using Chrome or Edge (Firefox doesn’t yet support WebSerial so won’t work). You’ll need to connect your Atom Lite to your computer using a USB-C cable that supports both data and charging. You may also need to install the USB drivers – on my Windows 10 machine, the ‘CH9102_VCP_SER_Windows’ download worked. You should then be able to install the firmware, which will take a couple of minutes. Once done, you’ll be prompted for your home Wi-Fi network name and password, and then you should be good to go. Home Assistant will hopefully detect your new Bluetooth proxy automatically.

Managing your Bluetooth proxy in ESPHome

I used ‘hopefully’ in the previous sentence, because this didn’t happen in my case. As I used Home Assistant Supervised, I was able to install the official ESPHome addon; if you use Docker, you can just run docker pull ghcr.io/esphome/esphome to install it. Once installed, the ESPHome addon/docker image should detect your Bluetooth proxy and allow you to ‘adopt’ it.

This will let you view the hostname of your Bluetooth proxy device, which will be something like ‘atom-bluetooth-proxy-wibble.local‘. You can then add the ESPHome integration to Home Assistant, specifying the hostname, and you’ll be good to go. As soon as the integration was working, Home Assistant was able to see a new Bluetooth device and allowed me to configure the integration.

Going forward, you should find that Home Assistant is able to automatically update your ESPHome devices whenever new firmware is available – this is a new feature from the 2024.07 release. But you can also use the ESPHome addon/docker image to add or change features on your device. You could, for example, allow your device to act as an iBeacon as well (I think).

One thing to bear in mind is that Bluetooth and Wi-Fi both use the same 2.4 GHz frequency band. So, if you’re comfortable building your own board with a wired Ethernet connection instead of Wi-Fi, then you may get better performance.

Comparing different smart home protocols

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An AI-generated image of various smart devices connecting to a home

When I started acquiring smart devices for my home, my focus was on those that worked over Wifi (or Ethernet) – I wasn’t really aware of the likes of Zigbee, Z-Wave and other protocols that were out there. In particular, I avoided those that required the purchase of a hub or bridge, due to the higher upfront cost.

Now that I’m further along my smart home journey, I’m more open to considering a range of different protocols. They all have their advantages and disadvantages to consider.

Wifi (and Ethernet)

I’m grouping these together as devices that are visible to a standard home network and have their own IPv4 address. The majority of smart home devices use Wifi, as there’s usually no need to buy an additional hub or bridge. Therefore, set-up is usually easy (sometimes aided by Bluetooth), and their range is fine as long as they can pick up your home’s Wifi signal. It’s also very easy to connect these devices to cloud services.

In terms of disadvantages: Wifi primarily uses the 2.4 GHz frequency band, which is used by lots of things and so there’s a potential for interference. The ease of connecting these devices to the cloud can also be seen as a flaw; they’re more susceptible to being compromised by bad actors, and don’t offer as much privacy. Wifi is also quite power-hungry – devices that don’t plug into the mains will need their batteries changing more frequently.

Bluetooth

As mentioned, Bluetooth is often used with Wifi to initially provision devices, but some Bluetooth-only devices can be used in a smart home. For example, there’s my Bluetooth thermometers, which connect to Home Assistant. Compared to Wifi, power requirements are much lower and so Bluetooth is good for battery-powered devices. They’re also more private, as they can’t easily be connected to from the wider internet.

However, Bluetooth has quite a limited range – it’s designed to be a ‘personal’ area network and won’t reach across large houses. You can use a Bluetooth Proxy in Home Assistant to extend the range, and whilst these devices are cheap, you’ll need to be comfortable flashing custom firmware and will usually need to plug them in as they bridge to Wifi. Like Wifi, it uses the 2.4 GHz band and so interference is possible – especially with the lower signal strength. Bluetooth connections also tend to be between two paired devices.

Zigbee

Zigbee is a mesh protocol, and it’s used by a number of smart home brands such as Philips Hue and Ikea Tradfri, as well as UK smart meters. This means that all devices on the same network talk to each other, and so a network with lots of devices could theoretically be quite strong. Like Bluetooth, there’s additional privacy as these devices aren’t connected directly to the internet like with Wifi. It’s also more energy efficient than Wifi, so battery-powered Zigbee devices will last longer between charges.

The key disadvantage of Zigbee is that you need a bridge to link it to your home network. Manufacturers like the aforementioned Philips and Ikea will sell you a hub that does this, although you can also buy USB dongles. Therefore, there’s a higher initial cost as you have to buy a hub as well as your devices. And it’s another 2.4 GHz protocol, so could have the same interference issues as Bluetooth and Wifi.

Whilst Home Assistant has good Zigbee support, both natively and through the Zigbee2MQTT system, if you don’t have a separate hub then getting these devices into Google Home can be a very involved process. Alexa is a little easier thanks to the Emulated Hue integration.

Thread

Thread is based on the same 802.16 standard as Zigbee, but differs in a couple of ways. Firstly, devices on a Thread network have an IPv6 address. Secondly, Thread is a simpler protocol that focuses just on being a mesh network with Matter taking over the device APIs. The benefit of integrating with Matter is that, unlike Zigbee, you may not need a separate bridge for Thread devices. A number of smart speakers from Google, Amazon Alexa and Apple can also act as Thread Border Routers, so it’s possible that you’ll already have the infrastructure in place in your home for Thread devices. Like Zigbee, Thread is a mesh network, and by using Thread Border Routers, the devices have a degree of separation from the wider internet that should improve privacy and security.

The downside is that Thread is still pretty new, and so there aren’t many Thread devices out there yet. You may also find that each device that incorporates a Thread Border Router creates a separate Thread mesh network. Home Assistant can be configured to join a preferred network, but it can be a bit of a faff. Ideally, they should all make one big, strong mesh network across your home, but we’re not there yet. And, once again, we’re dealing with a 2.4 GHz protocol here.

Z-Wave

Z-Wave sets itself apart from the aforementioned protocols by being on the lower 800-900 MHz frequency range. These lower frequencies have a longer range, and so are more suited to larger homes, but also avoid the interference of the 2.4 GHz band. Like Zigbee, it’s a mesh network, and should have similar privacy and security benefits by not being connected directly to the internet.

This also means that Z-Wave has the same disadvantage as Zigbee in that you’ll need a bridge to expose these devices to your home network. Furthermore, Z-Wave devices tend to be more expensive, so the upfront cost is usually higher than other protocols mentioned here.

RF and Infrared

I’m including these for the sake of completeness, but they’re not ‘smart home protocols’ in the same way as the above. It’s possible to connect the likes of Home Assistant to bridge devices that can communicate over Wifi and 433 MHz RF or Infrared. These will typically be doorbells or remote controls for devices that don’t connect using any of the above. But setting them up can be trial and error, and involves detecting and interpreting codes to trigger automations.

If you’re building a smart home system, then a bridge may be useful to bring existing devices in that don’t support standard smart home protocols. But if you’re looking to buy new devices, stick with the ones above.