Assorted notes on Athens

A photo of the National and Kapodistrian University of Athens

This is the fourth of five blog posts about my recent trip to Athens – the first was a quick hello, the second was a visit to the Acropolis, and the third was about the actual reason for our visit – the LanguageCert HE Summit.

Whilst this wasn’t my first visit to Greece – I went to the Greek island of Crete when I was three, but don’t remember much about it – this was my first time in the Greek capital. As per previous trips to Paris and Dublin, here are some assorted notes about my time in Athens.

Athens Airport

My flights were to and from Athens International Airport “Eleftherios Venizelos”, which was opened in 2001 in readiness for Athens to host the 2004 Olympic and Paralympic Games. As such, it’s relatively modern, but it’s clear that passenger numbers have grown since it was opened. We were bussed between the plane and terminal both times, as there’s not enough airbridges to allow direct boarding. On arrival, we had to sit on the tarmac for a while to get a parking space and again to wait for the buses to arrive – the pilot commented that it was like they weren’t expecting us.

Inside the terminal, I was a little surprised at just how many British/global brands were there – the shops were all WHSmith, and there was a Burger King and Pret a Manger. It turns out they’re all operated by SSP, a British multinational which runs many franchised outlets in airports and railway stations. There were plenty of Greek options though too. Oh, and lots of adverts, in English, for Lidl, advising people that they can still use the Lidl Plus app in Greece.

Whilst our departure was from the main terminal, when I first arrived we were bussed to the satellite terminal. There followed a ten minute underground walk to the main terminal. According to Wikipedia, the airport was built with room to expand, and it looks like it needs it. It has two runways, either side of the A6 motorway, and on the return flight the plane taxied over the motorway to take off. Hopefully they will open another satellite terminal soon, and consider some kind of people mover to get people around more quickly.

The city of Athens

We arrived in Athens on a Sunday, and then Monday was Whit Monday, which in Greece is celebrated as the ‘Day of the Holy Spirit’ and is therefore a public holiday. As such, the city seemed rather closed up and deserted until Tuesday, which for me was just a half day. However, lots of shops seemed to be open late on Monday night, presumably because it’s cooler.

Athens also has a graffiti problem – much more so than Paris which I thought was bad. There were also more buildings in a state of disrepair, with some older buildings looking like they’d had scaffolding around them for years. However, this certainly wasn’t the majority and not reflective of the whole city.

Transport

In terms of transport, Athens has a variety of modes on offer. There’s an underground metro, trams, and trolleybuses, as well as the usual buses – some of which are zero-emission battery electric buses. As befits an ancient city, lots of the streets are quite narrow and there are one-way systems in lieu of dual carriageways in places. Coming from Bradford, which was the last UK city to get rid of its trolleybuses in 1972, it was good to see them still in use in Greece. After all, Greece is not short of sunlight for solar power, and I saw plenty of solar panels whilst there.

I was provided taxi transport to and from the airport, which took around half an hour, but the metro and suburban rail services also connect to the airport, using overhead electrified lines. That being said, I only saw a couple of trains in each direction – the railway is in the central reservation of the motorway links to the airport. Had I needed to take the metro, I would have been able to get very close to my hotel without any changes.

Speaking of motorways, these seemed relatively new and were tolled. Our driver had a toll tag, similar to the one we use when in France. Some of the motorways were quite twisty, with sharper bends that I would expect to see in the UK, but I suspect that this is due to the terrain – we also went through several tunnels.

Almost all signage that I saw was in both Greek and English.

The view from the hotel restaurant across to the Acropolis

My hotel

I stayed at the NYX Esperia Palace Hotel, which is part of the Leonardo Hotels group. It’s quite new, and way outside my normal budget for a hotel. There are two swimming pools – one in the basement, and a smaller one on the roof. The restaurant is also up on the roof, with a view of the Acropolis – I really enjoyed being able to sit outside at breakfast time with a stunning view across the city.

As a smart home geek, I was particularly drawn to the controls in the rooms. There were several human presence sensors to turn on the lights automatically, and several touchscreen panels to control the lights, air conditioning and even open and close the curtains. For coffee making, there was a Nespresso machine in the room – indeed, it appears that pod coffee machines are really popular in Greece based on my experience.

The hotel was also just on the next block over from LanguageCert’s headquarters. The Wi-Fi was free and worked well.

Mobile phones

I bought a 1 GB eSIM before setting off for £4 on Airalo, rather than relying on roaming. Greece has three main networks:

  • Vodafone, which Brits will be familiar with. Indeed, at Athens airport, there was a vending machine selling Vodafone SIM cards which was clearly aimed at Brits.
  • Cosmote, which is the state operator but is majority owned by Deutsche Telekom. As such, there’s a lot of T-Mobile co-branding. Brits may be surprised to see T-Mobile still in existence as in the UK it merged with Orange, became EE and was then bought by BT.
  • Nova, which is what both my UK SIM on 3 connected to, and the network used by my Meraki Mobile eSIM from Airalo.

Across Athens, 5G internet was widely available. Indeed, it may be that Nova has already turned off its 3G network (as all but O2 in the UK have already done) as when I couldn’t get a 5G or 4G signal, it dropped down to EDGE.

I realised after reviewing this that it sounds like I’m surprised that Greece has similar level of connectivity to the UK, as if my perception is that Greece is somehow less developed than the UK. This was not my intention – I think as someone who would feel very isolated without internet access, I was reassuring myself that I would have good access to services whilst travelling.

Food

The food we had during our stay was nothing short of excellent. Christine and I are both foodies and we cook a lot of Persian food at home, of which Greek food has some similarities. The organisers of the summit took us to a couple of excellent Greek restaurants for our evening meals – again, both with a view of the Acropolis. I ate very well whilst I was away.

Shortly before I left, there was a news article about a Brit who had been to Corfu and complained about the lack of “English” food which made me despair a little. For me, part of the fun of travelling is to try new food. Indeed, one of my gifts from LanguageCert was a Greek cookbook, and there was plenty of Greek honey and cheese to buy at the duty free shop at Athens airport.

Pokemon Go

If you play Pokemon Go, then there’s a Pokemon to catch which is exclusive to Greece and Egypt (and parts of Albania bordering Greece): Sigilyph. They’re not very common – it took me until the morning of my departure on Tuesday to track one down – but they often appeared on my radar. I later caught another at the airport whilst waiting for my flight.

I have one more blog post to follow, which will be another miscellaneous blog post about everything else that happened whilst I was away.

LanguageCert HE Summit in Athens

Screenshot of the home page of LanguageCert's web site

The purpose of my recent visit to Athens was to attend a summit for staff working in admissions and English teaching in higher education, hosted by LanguageCert. LanguageCert offers tests in English, Spanish and Classical Greek for those wanting to prove their language proficiency for work, study or immigration.

I don’t tend to talk much about my day job on this blog, but as someone who works in international university admissions, I was already aware of LanguageCert. They offer a suite of tests, including an Academic test which is more focussed on the English skills needed for academic study at an English-speaking university. LanguageCert took over the running of the International ESOL (English for Speakers of Other Languages) test from City & Guilds in 2015, and moved into online testing in 2019. Which, considering everything that happened in 2020, was a very wise move in hindsight.

Online testing

LanguageCert tests can be taken in a test centre – indeed, they’re one of only five providers offering a Secure English Language Test (SELT) approved by UK Visas and Immigration. But their tests are also available to be taken online at home, and it was good to hear more about the security and identity checks that they do for testers. I won’t go into too much detail, as I don’t want to share information given to me in confidence. Test takers have to download apps to their computers and mobile devices to verify their identity and to detect any cheating tools. We also got to see some examples of how they’ve been able to catch paid impersonators who have taken tests on peoples’ behalves. Their mobile app, ExamShield, can read the chips located in most modern passports, which can be compared with the printed details to avoid issues with fraudulent identity documents. The same app can also be used as a second webcam, typically positioned 135° from the primary webcam on the computer, to allow the proctor to see that the workspace is clear of any unauthorised materials. There’s more detail available here if you’re interested.

We also got to see behind the scenes, to see live exams being remotely proctored. They offer exams 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

The AI elephant in the room

The topic of Artificial Intelligence came up several times during the summit, both in terms of opportunities and threats. AI, when used correctly, can assist humans with tasks – especially around fraud checks. But it can also be used for fraud, and this is something that LanguageCert are tackling. They have various tools and pre-test verification checks to detect deepfakes, where an impersonator will use live face-swapping technology to make themselves look like the person who was supposed to take the test. Their software is designed to lock down a computer, so, for example, it wouldn’t be possible to paste answers from ChatGPT into the writing section of a test.

Preventing fraud using AI is an ongoing arms race. LanguageCert’s software and platform is developed in-house – again, we got to see where their programmers work – and so they are well-placed to be agile in responding to new developments in the AI space.

The English testing market

LanguageCert is a relatively new entrant to the market for English testing. Most British universities steer people towards the IELTS test, which is run collaboratively between the University of Cambridge, IDP and the British Council. Meanwhile, TOEFL from ETS is usually preferred by American universities and Pearson PTE by Australian universities. Widening access to university education is something I feel passionately about, as I say peoples’ lives being changed every day by being able to undertake further study, and so having a wide range of accessible and affordable tests facilitates this.

Besides learning about LanguageCert’s products, and those from the wider PeopleCert group, the summit was also a good opportunity to network with colleagues from other universities. Several British universities besides my own were represented, but also universities from the US, Canada, Belgium, Netherlands, Italy and Poland. It was good to speak to other professionals, especially during a turbulent time for higher education in the UK and US.

It was a very useful and well-organised summit, and I really appreciated LanguageCert extending an invite to my employer and for covering our travel costs.

The Athens Acropolis

A photo of the Parthenon at the Athens Acropolis

I’m back home now from my trip to Athens, having got home shortly after midnight this morning. Suffice to say, I’d booked today off work to recover.

Whilst the trip was primarily for work purposes, LanguageCert, our lovely hosts, also included a visit to the Acropolis on Sunday afternoon. Having travelled internationally for work before, this is something I really appreciated. When I went to Amman in 2015 for work, I didn’t get to see any of the nice bits of the city, and it was a shame to go all that way without seeing them. So, I made sure I packed some sturdy footwear and sun protection and off we went to tick another UNESCO World Heritage Site off my list.

The Acropolis

The city of Athens mostly sits within a basin, but with the Acropolis sitting on a raised rocky outcrop in the middle. The Acropolis itself contains several ruined buildings, including the Parthenon, the Propylaea, the Erechtheion and the Temple of Athena Nike. We had a tour guide who showed us all of these, including the ongoing restoration work. This isn’t to recreate them as they were when they were built over 2000 years ago, but to ensure that they don’t degrade further. The buildings were damaged in the 17th century by the Venetians, and this is the state that they remain today. In their heyday, these buildings must have been even more impressive – we were shown some of the few remaining marble roof tiles. Some sculptures have survived and are still on show.

Further down the outcrop are two theatres – the Theatre of Dionysus which was built by the ancient Greeks and is now a ruin, and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus which was built by the Romans and is still in use for events today – there was a show there on the Sunday that we visited. You can look down onto these from the Acropolis, and you get great views across the whole city of Athens.

Nearby is the Acropolis Museum – this is close but separate, and we didn’t go in. The current museum opened in 2008, and famously has an empty room to host the Parthenon Sculptures. Also known as the Elgin Marbles, these are controversially on display in the British Museum in London, but may be permanently loaned back to Greece soon. That part of the British Museum is due to close for refurbishment soon so returning them to Athens would make even more sense.

Accessibility

I always try to include an accessibility section in my Days Out posts, but I nearly didn’t bother with the Acropolis. It’s a World Heritage Site on top of a hill, so if you want to visit, you need to be able to handle steep slopes, uneven surfaces and lots of steps. If this isn’t for you, maybe stick to the Acropolis Museum rather than the Acropolis itself.

The good news is that the Acropolis has long opening hours, from 8am until 8pm – my advice would be to visit early or late as there’s very little shade available. We got there at about 5:30pm, by which time there were some shady spots to wait in. Even then, it was still very busy. All the signage is in both Greek and English.

Hello from Athens!

So, last weekend I teased that I would be travelling for work. Well, I flew out of Manchester very early yesterday morning – there should be a law against 6:30am flights on a Sunday morning – and have safely arrived in Athens in Greece.

I’m here to attend a Higher Education Summit by LanguageCert, who are very kindly paying for my flights and accommodation. LanguageCert are part of PeopleCert, and offer English language tests for non-native speakers wanting to live, work or study in English speaking countries. PeopleCert, meanwhile, offer professional certifications, including PRINCE2 which I achieved in 2018.

I’m only here for a relatively short time and will be flying back tomorrow.