One of the features I like about Home Assistant is its Energy dashboard. It can analyse and display various data about power and energy usage in your home – provided that you have the correct sensors available. As we have solar panels, our inverter provides lots of live data via a local API that we can use.
We also have a number of energy monitoring smart plugs that track energy usage. We have a couple of Meross plugs, and a couple of cheap Tuya Zigbee plugs. Home Assistant can then display the power usage of these devices, and so you can see where your energy is going.
But we can’t fit these onto every device. For example, devices like our oven, hub and dishwasher are all built-in, and don’t use standard 3-pin plug sockets. We could have smart relays fitted, but that would be a paid job for an electrician. So, instead, there’s a potential software solution, in the form of PowerCalc.
PowerCalc is a custom integration that you can install from HACS. Once set up, you can use PowerCalc to estimate the power usage of your devices, or use its extensive library where other users have provided this data already. Indeed, when I installed PowerCalc, it automatically added entries for our various Google Home smart speakers. Once added, these appear as additional entities attached to your existing devices, which is nice – they don’t appear as separate devices.
You can then add these entities to your energy dashboard, to see where your electricity usage goes. Here’s a Sankey graph from last week from our house; it was quite a dull day with little solar generation. There’s a lot that we can’t track, but you can see that a significant amount of our energy usage was spent drying clothes.
PowerCalc gets regular updates, with new devices being added all the time. And, of course, you can add these yourself, if you have the means to record the energy usage. The energy usage data also updates in realtime, so you could add the data to a dashboard and see how changing the brightness of a bulb affects its calculated energy usage.
Back in April last year, I bought a pair of Meross energy monitoring smart plugs(sponsored link). I’d chosen them because they supported Matter, and so could be easily added to Home Assistant, Google Home and Apple Home all at the same time. However, I lamented that their Matter support was limited to turning them on and off; the energy monitoring data wasn’t available through Matter. That has now changed.
If you have these plugs, or are looking at buying them, here’s how to get energy monitoring over Matter into Home Assistant:
Step 1: Update the Firmware
Firstly, you’ll need to open the Meross app on your phone, and ensure that the smart plug is linked to the app. Next, you’ll need to do a firmware update – this is located on the user tab, for some reason. The firmware update should take a couple of minutes.
Step 2: Re-interview your smart plugs
Originally, the way I found out that this was working was because one of my plugs had stopped working, and needed a factory reset. I then had to remove and re-add it to Home Assistant, Google Home and Apple Home. When I re-added it to Home Assistant, that was when I found that it now supported energy monitoring over Matter, as the power, wattage, voltage and current for the smart plug now appeared in the device settings.
The good news is that you don’t need to remove and re-add the device. Instead, you can ‘re-interview’ the device. Open it up in Home Assistant’s device settings, and then click the three dots next to ‘Share device’, and then ‘Re-interview device’. Home Assistant will then attempt to find out what capabilities the device has, and should add the new entities for you.
Step 3: Uninstall the Meross LAN custom integration
The key advantage of using energy monitoring over Matter is that the data remains local to your home network. Otherwise, you’re sending and receiving data to Meross’ servers (unless you’ve managed to reconfigure them to use a local MQTT broker like Mosquitto). That also means that, if those servers go down or Meross withdraws support, you would no longer get energy monitoring data. Switching to Matter should therefore give your smart home system more resilience.
It’s been a particularly good Spring, hasn’t it? Lots and lots of sunshine, warm daytime temperatures, and almost no rain. It’s almost like the lovely Spring that we had in 2020, but without the lockdown restrictions. As such, we’ve been able to enjoy it a bit more.
As solar panel owners, it’s been particularly welcome. In March, our solar panel system saved us £50 by not needing to import energy from the grid, and we exported another £25 of excess electricity. And this month, despite us not being halfway through yet, we’ve already exported £25 of electricity. Overall, we’ve certainly exported far more than we’ve used from the grid. However, we’re having some issues with our smart electric meter not reporting usage, and so I’m not able to properly quantify this yet.
Although it’s been cold at nights, we’re still using less gas and electric than we would typically use at this time of year thanks to the nice weather. It’s been warmer during the day, and we’ve been able to dry more laundry outside too. We haven’t used our heated drying rack for a few weeks now.
Energy prices
Speaking of energy prices, I’m hoping that this will mean that Ofgem’s Energy Price Cap will go down when it changes again in July. The warmer weather should have reduced the use of gas central heating, and the increased contribution of solar energy will have reduced the amount of gas that’s burned to generate electricity. Seeing as it’s mainly wholesale gas prices that drive the price cap calculations, reduced demand for gas will hopefully see the price cap fall.
Hosepipe bans
It’s been that long since it rained that I can’t remember the last wet day that we had. Which has been good for getting out and about, but not so good for keeping the reservoirs topped up. Rain is forecast for next week, but if the general trend is for lots of hot dry days, then I wouldn’t be surprised if we end up with a hosepipe ban in the summer.
If you want to plan now for a hosepipe ban and don’t already have a water butt to store excess rainwater, consider getting one from Save Water Save Money. Pop your postcode in to find out if you can get one subsidised by your water company. They’re at least £10 cheaper than elsewhere, as long as you’re prepared to wait around six weeks for delivery. We haven’t invested in one yet (we need additional work doing on our guttering) but it’s something to consider.
One thing we have bought in response to the warm weather has been a portable air conditioning unit. British homes are not typically built with air conditioning systems (and our house is around 100 years old in any case). Whilst the nights have been cold, I’m fully expecting that, if this good weather continues, there will be some hot nights on the way. A standard pedestal fan can help keep you cool by blowing away sweat, but it can’t cool the air in a room. Once it’s arrived and I’ve had time to evaluate it, I’ll do a blog post.
We’ve had our solar panels for a couple of years now, and, as a thought experiment, I’ve wondered if it would be possible to go ‘off grid‘. This would mean having no connection to the electricity and gas networks, and potentially the water network too.
Now, I’m very much aware that this is a classic example of Betteridge’s Law of Headlines, and indeed, the short version of this is pretty much, ‘no’ when it comes to electricity and water. Especially if the person reading this is my wife, Christine (love you sweetheart). It is intended to be a thought experiment after all.
Getting off the gas grid
We’ll start with the easiest one – getting off the gas grid. This is actually a long-term of ours, and many homes are now getting disconnected from the gas grid.
When we bought our house, which will have been 10 years ago this summer, it was a very gas-reliant house. There were three gas fires, a gas central heating boiler and water tank, and a gas cooker. We got two of the gas fires out before we’d even moved in, and the remaining one followed when we had the very old gas boiler replaced with a more energy efficient condensing boiler in 2016. Next to go was the gas cooker, when we had the kitchen renovated in 2022, so now we only need gas for heating and hot water.
Now our boiler isn’t quite nine years old, but it’s likely to have a few years left in at least. When it’s due for replacement, our plan is to switch to an air source heat pump, which will be electrically powered. That will mean there’s no need for a gas connection to our home, and we can have it completely removed. As well as meaning that we don’t need to pay the daily gas standing charge, we’ll no longer have pipes carrying an invisible and highly flammable gas running into our home. And it’ll reduce our carbon footprint too.
Off-grid electricity
So that’s the easy one out of the way. Going off grid for electricity, however, is likely to be much harder.
We’ve made a start, at least, with our solar panels. In the summer months, with longer days and more sunlight, we generally generate enough to be self-sufficient. We also have a battery attached to the system, so the solar panels can charge the battery during the day, and then the house can run off the battery overnight.
However, at this time of year, we are very much not self-sufficient. This is especially true as I write this on a very dull Sunday afternoon, where our solar panels are contributing a mere 7 watts of power. That’s about enough to run a couple of LED light bulbs, but certainly not enough for our freezer, for example. We would therefore need other ways of generating electricity on dull days, or at night.
Ovo Energy have a useful guide here. Generally speaking, a roof-mounted turbine would be capable of generating 1-2 kW of electricity, which is less than half the peak capacity of our solar system. And that’s based on a lot of assumptions about wind speed that may or may not apply to your property.
As well as the installation cost, we would probably also need planning permission, as our house isn’t detached. We’re therefore looking at around £2000-3000, and it would probably take quite some time to recoup that investment.
Dull days with no wind
So, a solar system backed up with a wind turbine might cover our electricity needs. Unless it’s a dull day and there’s no wind.
I’m in a few Facebook groups for people who use Home Assistant and who have solar and battery systems, and quite a few other members have the Agile Octopus tariff. On this tariff, electricity prices change by the half hour, based on wholesale prices. If it’s forecast to be a particularly sunny and windy day, electricity prices can be very low. Indeed, they occasionally go negative – in other words, Octopus will actually pay you to take electricity out of the grid, rather than the other way round. It’s great for people who have battery systems that can charge from the grid, or who can plan their days to use more electricity at the times when it’s cheap.
Though we are Octopus Energy customers, we’re not on Agile Octopus, because prices can also shoot up on dull days with no wind. Our fixed tariff means we pay 21.10p/kWh, regardless of the weather, but on Agile Octopus, the electricity unit price can go up as high as £1 per kWh. And if you haven’t been able to charge up your home battery by then, it could get very costly.
As an aside, if you’re not already an Octopus Energy customer, here’s my referral link. You get £50 off your bill if you join, and their customer service is better than any other energy company that we’ve been with so far. There’s also an unofficial Home Assistant integration that uses their API.
Therefore, if we were to disconnect from the grid, we would need a third source of electricity. This is where it gets a bit more tricky. The options I have looked up so far include:
A wood burning stove, with a thermoelectric generator. However, in my research, I’ve yet to find anywhere in the UK that would sell such a system. And those that I have seen for home use would only be able to generate a few watts – not even enough for our house’s ‘base load’ (fridge, freezer, devices on standby etc). We have a chimney that we could use, but we would also need filters to stop particulate matter getting into the air.
Some form of hydro generation using water collected from rainfall on our roof. This would only really work when it rains; although we live in the Pennines where it rains quite a bit, I doubt this would power much more than a couple of light bulbs.
Therefore, we would probably have to fall back on a diesel generator, which would be noisy, smelly, and not good for local air quality or the environment.
No Smart Export Guarantee
The other benefit to being on the electricity grid is that you can be paid back for any excess electricity that you export. Even though it’s January, we’ve exported around £1 of electricity this month, and that’s only after our battery has been fully charged. In June last year, we were paid £46 for the electricity we exported, against £36 for the grid energy that we used. So that was a net payment to us that month. Indeed, over the whole of 2024, we were paid £227 for the excess electricity that we exported.
If we’re not on the grid, then we can’t export. So if our battery is full, that electricity is essentially being wasted. Of course, if I was serious about going off-grid, then I would probably invest in another battery to prevent this from happening, but then that’s another expense.
What about water?
Going off the water grid would be the most difficult. Although ironically, we’ve been inadvertently off the water grid four times so far this month, due to supply issues. I have an active complaint with Yorkshire Water about that, but let’s imagine that I want to willingly disconnect from the water grid for a moment.
Clearly, we would need some other way of getting clean water into the house. Rainwater is the most obvious, but we would then need somewhere to store it. In 2023, I read The Climate Change Garden(sponsored link) by Sally Morgan and Kim Stoddart, and the book shows you how you can store water in tanks underneath your garden to cope with water shortages. During the 2022 heatwave, we had a hosepipe ban for several months, and so I’m considering whether to get a water butt to store rain water for use in the garden. You may be eligible for a subsidised water butt from Save Water Save Money – you’ll need to pop in your postcode to see if your water company participates.
But even a butt, or huge tanks under our lawn, are unlikely to be sufficient. We would ideally need to have access to a constant flow of running water, such as a stream. And we would need the means to filter the water so that it’s fit for drinking.
And what about sewage? We don’t have a particularly big garden and so we probably wouldn’t have room for a septic tank, or any other means of storing and/or treating waste.
A case study: Gibson Mill
Up above Hebden Bridge is Hardcastle Crags, a National Trust property which is home to Gibson Mill. The Mill is off-grid, because of its remote location – it’s about a mile away from the nearest electricity cables, for example. So, electricity is instead generated on site, using solar panels and a hydro-electric generator. Mills were typically built next to watercourses and Gibson Mill is no exception, being served by Hebden Beck. Whilst this would have driven a waterwheel in years gone by, nowadays it drives a turbine to produce electricity. The solar panels have recently been replaced with newer, more efficient models, and there are huge batteries to store energy.
We last went back in 2023, and despite having more than one way of generating electricity on site, there was still a diesel generator at the back that was needed to top-up the electricity supply. Even then, they were unable to serve hot food in the café as a result of not having sufficient power.
Gibson Mill also has no connection to the sewerage system, so its toilets are composting toilets. Below the toilets are huge vats filled with worms, who digest our waste for us. It’s feasible at this scale because it’s a tourist attraction, and the alternative of laying pipes would be more expensive.
Conclusion – staying mostly on-grid
So, in summary: going totally off-grid would be difficult, although coming off the gas grid is achievable and something that we want to do eventually. We don’t live in a very remote area, and so going off-grid with electricity and/or water wouldn’t really make sense. Even if we could find the means to generate our own electricity, the upfront costs of installing the required equipment would probably outweigh the potential savings.
The recent cold snap, and corresponding increase in our heating bill, has meant that I’ve looked at using radiator reflectors at home. These are panels, made of reflective material, which go behind your radiators and reflect heat back into the room.
Unless you’re lucky enough to have under-floor heating, if you have central heating then your heat will most likely come from radiators hung on your walls. The heat from these radiators literally radiates out in all directions, which means that some of this heat will be going into the walls behind your radiator. Radiator reflectors redirect that heat back into your room, increasing the efficiency of the radiator.
Radiator reflectors are especially useful for radiators on external walls, as otherwise you’re potentially allowing heat to escape outside the home. Our house is around 100 years old, and we’ve been told that we can’t have cavity wall insulation, so heat loss is an issue for us.
Choosing radiator reflectors
The radiator reflectors that I bought are Radi Save from Must Have Ideas. Instead of individual panels, you get one five metre long strip of material, which you then cut down to size. Thankfully, the four radiators that I wanted to add reflectors to added up to 5.1m, so one pack was adequate; if I was to do the whole house, then two would have probably been sufficient. Each five metre pack normally costs £20, but they’re on offer for £15 each at present, plus postage.
The material is easily cut with regular scissors – you just need to measure the radiator’s width, knock maybe an inch off each end, and cut it to size. You also need to measure and cut out holes so that it can slide around the brackets. Then, just drop it in place behind the radiator, assuming your nine-year-old hasn’t filled the back of the radiator with various dropped toys. You can then attach them to the wall with double-sided tape, if you wish; I haven’t yet, as it gives us the option of storing them over summer when the radiators are off.
The market leader seems to be Radflek (sponsored link) – they will sell you panels and a kit to hang them from the radiator brackets. A pack of two panels costs £20, so they’re a little more expensive than Radi Save. However, as you would expect, there are many other radiator reflectors on sale from Amazon, including similar products to Radi Save.
Do they work?
As I write this, I have installed our radiator reflectors on two radiators – one in our bathroom, and the other in our dining room. Our bathroom radiator is small, and behind a door, and this is where we’ve seen the most benefit. The room doesn’t feel as cold as before, and there’s been less of an issue with condensation on the window since I fitted the radiator reflectors.
Also, I believe the previous owners of the house used to have a gas fire in the bathroom, where the radiator is now, however the old flue from the gas fire remains. As such, some of the heat from the radiator was being channelled out of the house through the flue. The radiator reflector seems to be preventing this now, which is great – indeed, the back of the reflector, facing the wall, was almost cold even when the radiator was on.
So yes, it feels like they’re working. I can’t back this up with my own solid data, but most product pages selling radiator reflectors seem to include images taken from thermal imaging cameras to show that they work.
Do they save money?
£15 for four radiators doesn’t seem like much, but it’s still an investment. Whether you will save money by using radiator reflectors will most likely depend on whether you have thermostatic radiator valves (TRV). These are valves on your radiator that open and close in response to how warm your radiator is; once your room is warm enough, the valves will close up and will reduce the flow of hot water into the radiator. As mentioned, radiator reflectors help by increasing the efficiency of the radiator, theoretically meaning that the radiator will warm up faster, and so that the TRV can close up sooner.
We have standard TRVs on our radiators, but it’s possible to get smart TRVs. These can be set to a specific temperature, using an app, and, if they’re from the same brand as your thermostat, can control your boiler or heat pump too. If not, then it’s possible to rig something up with Home Assistant.
If you don’t have TRVs, that doesn’t mean that you won’t save money – certainly, if you add a reflector to the radiator in the room where your thermostat is, you should still save some money. But hopefully you’ll find that your rooms are at least warmer than they were before, without burning more gas.
Can’t I just use kitchen foil?
I’ve long been aware of the suggestion that you just put some kitchen foil behind your radiators, rather than buying dedicated radiator reflectors. According to this web page, kitchen foil may work, but it isn’t likely to be as effective. It’s delicate, so tears easily, and isn’t as insulative as proper radiator reflectors.
Whilst we currently still have a traditional gas boiler for our heating and hot water, should it ever break down or need replacing, we’ll get a heat pump instead. Heat pumps use electricity to provide heat, and are about three times more efficient than even the newest condensing gas boilers.
There’s a really good visual explainer from The Guardian here about how heat pumps work. Basically, they work like fridges in reverse. Heat pumps extract any heat from the ground or air, and pressurise it using a compressor. The pressure heats the air, and the resultant hot air heats up water. This water is then pumped around your central heating system, or into your hot water tank. Using pressure to heat air in this way uses significantly less energy than heating it directly.
So why is Britain in particular so behind on heat pump uptake? It seems like political lobbying has a role. Boiler manufacturers are trying to push back phase-out dates, presumably as they have huge amounts of stock that would be otherwise worthless.
But also Britain is relatively unique in the world in that we have a privatised gas network. Different private companies each produce the gas, distribute the gas, and bill us for the gas in our homes. The gas producers can sell this gas on the open market, which is why our energy bills rocketed when Russia declared war on Ukraine and the wholesale price went up. Gas is distributed by the privatised National Grid, and in local areas by companies like Cadent and Northern Gas Networks. And then we pay consumer energy companies like British Gas, Octopus, EDF and e-On to get the gas into our homes. In other words, there’s a lot of money to be made from gas, and therefore vested interests in keeping gas supplies going.
Our move away from gas
When we bought our house in 2015, it was very reliant on gas. As well as a 40+ year old gas boiler supplying central heating and hot water, there were two gas fires, a gas oven and gas hob. We got rid of the two gas fires even before we moved in, and replaced the gas boiler with a more efficient condensing boiler. At the same time, we had a Nest smart thermostat fitted. Then in 2022, we got a new kitchen with a dual electric fan ovens and an induction hob. So our boiler is our only remaining gas-using appliance.
I suspect we would have opted for a heat pump instead if they had been more widely available and affordable. As it is, our boiler is only just out of its warranty period and so it’s not worth replacing yet. But when it is time to be replaced, we’ll get a heat pump. After all, we generate our own electricity using solar panels. It would also mean we could have our gas supply turned off, saving us from paying the daily standing charge. This is currently 29p per day, which adds up to over £100 per year.
Previously, I’ve used Tuya smart plugs. Which are fine, but these ones don’t do energy monitoring, don’t work with Apple HomeKit and I have some privacy concerns. The Meross plugs, on the other hand, do offer energy monitoring, can be used with 13 Amp devices, and also work with Matter. They’re also smaller, and feel more solidly built than the older Tuya plugs.
Matter support
These smart plugs also support Matter, the open smart home standard. This should mean that you can use them with any smart home ecosystem, whether that’s Amazon, Google, Apple HomeKit, Samsung SmartThings or Home Assistant. I was able to get them to pair with Home Assistant, but not with HomeKit. It turns out I need a device that can act as a HomeKit hub, which can be a permanently plugged-in iPad, Apple TV or Apple HomePod. It won’t just use any other Matter server on my home network. This is ironic as the Home Assistant app uses the same Matter provisioning process on iOS devices.
It’s also worth noting that Matter support is limited to turning the smart plugs on and off. I’m guessing the Matter specification doesn’t include energy monitoring as yet. Also, these smart plugs connect over 2.4 Ghz Wifi, which is worth noting if you’ve configured your Wifi network to only use 5 GHz. They don’t use Thread.
Making use of energy monitoring
If you want to take advantage of the energy monitoring capabilities of the smart plugs, you’ll either need the official Meross app (for iOS and Android), or use Home Assistant. Whilst I have installed the Meross app, I’ve set up the automations in Home Assistant. There isn’t an official Home Assistant integration for Meross, so you’ll need to install the Meross LAN custom integration which is available through HACS.
Once you’ve set it up and added your devices, you’ll need to set up the energy monitoring automation. By far the easiest way is to use this Blueprint – Blueprints are essentially templates for automations that you can download and configure. Make sure you follow the instructions, as you’ll need to create four Helpers for each smart plug, and give them specific names.
You can then define actions to take when the energy monitoring detects the appliance has started and ended. In my case, I’ve told it to send a notification to my phone when the device has finished. In the case of my tumble dryer, this includes a 15 minute delay as it uses less power towards the end (and otherwise results in notification spam). You may need to tweak the power thresholds as well. If all goes well, then you’ll get a notification like the one in the screenshot below.
Doing this means that you can get one of the key features of a smart device, without paying a significant premium. I paid £25 for the two plugs from Amazon, whereas it would have cost at least another £100 to buy a smart tumble dryer. Our washing machine is 9 years old and I’m not even sure that smart washing machines were on the market at the time.
If you’re in the UK, and have a smart meter, then your home probably has a Zigbee network that you may not know about.
What is Zigbee?
Zigbee is a wireless mesh networking protocol, that is commonly used for smart devices. If you have smart lightbulbs, such as the Ikea Trådfri or Philips HUE range(sponsored link), then Zigbee is what these devices use to communicate with their hub.
Zigbee isn’t the same as Wifi. Wifi devices belong to the 802.11 family of IEEE standards, whereas Zigbee is in the 802.15 family . There’s a difference at the hardware level, so a device that supports Wifi can’t use Zigbee unless it has a specialised chipset. However, there is commonality between the two; like Wifi, Zigbee uses IP addresses, and operates on the 2.4 GHz band.
If you have smart meters for your electricity and gas, then these will use Zigbee to communicate with your IHD (In Home Display). This is the small device that shows your current and daily usage.
Can you access this Zigbee network?
No. Even if you have a device with Home Assistant and a Zigbee dongle, it won’t be able to see the Zigbee network that your meters and IHD use. I suspect this is because your electricity meter has its own SIM card, to access the internet to send your readings. If you could access this Zigbee network, then it may use your electricity meter’s internet connection and not your own.
Update (January 2025): Depending on where you live, your smart meter may not actually have a SIM card. If you live in Wales, or central and southern England, then it will have a SIM card and will send your data using 2G or 3G internet services on O2’s network. However, if you live in Scotland or the north of England, as in north of the M62 corridor, then your smart meter will send data on the 400MHz band. This offers lower bandwidth, but higher range, and more likely to penetrate the insides of houses in remote areas. We have the latter type of smart meter, as we live just north of the house in the middle of the M62.
There are, however, some devices that will bridge between this Zigbee network and your own Wifi network at home. Some newer IHD devices offer this, and if you’re an Octopus Energy customer, you can join the waiting list for the Octopus Home Mini. I joined the waiting list a few months ago, but I haven’t heard anything yet. Meanwhile, you can also buy a Glow CAD (Consumer Access Device) for £65, which can connect to Home Assistant. Alas, it’s out of stock at the time of writing.
Another option for Octopus Energy customers is this Home Assistant addon, which brings in your usage data. However, it updates half hourly unless you already have an Octopus Home Mini.
Other ‘secret’ networks in your home
In our home, we also have a couple of Thread networks. Thread is related to Zigbee in that it’s also in the 802.15 family, and is arguably a successor. Nest developed it to enable their smart thermostats to talk wirelessly to the heat link that connects to your boiler, so this makes one network. Newer Nest thermostats can act as a Thread Border Router and so other devices using Matter can connect to it, but we have an older model.
We also have a pair of Google Nest Wifi devices (a hub and a point) which use Thread to communicate with each other. Google has updated these to offer a Thread Border Router, and so I’ve been able to access this with Home Assistant, ready for when we have some Matter compatible devices. So at least I can access one of the three non-wifi networks in my home.
Further reading
Whilst researching this, I came across this Hacking Your Smart Meter (Part 1) article, although there doesn’t appear to be a part 2. Instead, the author, Terence Eden, uses an API from his energy company as above.
Today, I’m going to talk to you about washing machines. We bought a new one last month, and it is so much better than our old one in several ways.
The new washing machine is this Bosch model, which is normally £399 from John Lewis. We actually paid much less, by combining loads of gift vouches from the wedding and a cashback offer that was on at the time. This is now installed in our new house.
Our old washing machine is the one in our flat. It’s a Hotpoint washer-dryer, so it will wash and tumble-dry our clothes in one process. It’s probably around 10-15 years old as we assume that it was installed when the building was converted from a mill into flats.
For a start, washer-dryers are never as good as stand-alone washing machines and tumble dryers. Indeed, the dryer part of our old Hotpoint machine is pretty rubbish – if you’re lucky, it’ll get a half load mostly dry in around two and a half hours after the wash cycle is completed. Bigger loads will come out wet.
But it’s also not that great at washing either. It’s okay, but takes its time, and the drum can only take 6 kilograms of washing – about 13 pounds in old money.
The new Bosch machine has a much bigger drum that can take 8 kilograms (17.6 lb), so we can wash a third more clothes in each cycle. It’s significantly quieter, and barely makes any noise apart from during the spin cycle, which is still comparatively quiet. This is good for us as the washing machine is in the kitchen, which is directly below the room that will become the baby’s room when it’s born.
As well as being a good price, we also chose the Bosch model because of its energy and water efficiency. It’s rated A+++ for energy usage, which is the highest possible rating, and it required the least amount of water. Indeed, it looks like it uses less water than our current machine despite being able to handle bigger loads.
Despite using less water and electricity, the Bosch machine still manages to be quicker than the old Hotpoint machine – even when you enable its energy efficient mode. So not only does it wash clothes more quickly, it costs less money to do so. And it has a countdown timer telling you how long it has left. Timers these tend to be standard on new machines nowadays but this is the first time I have owned one with a timer, and it’s really useful.
We chose to get a water meter fitted to the house, and so conserving water will save us money in the long term, as will the reduced electricity costs. Furthermore, as we’ve opted not to buy a tumble dryer, this will save us more money on electricity bills in future. The house has a drying rack in the kitchen and space outside for washing lines, which we don’t have in the flat. And with a little one on the way, we’re likely to be using the washing machine far more often than now.
If you have an old washing machine, I would advise you to consider a newer model. The improvements in energy and water efficiency may well save you money in the long term and make up for the cost of buying a new machine. We’re really pleased with ours.
