london

How many UNESCO World Heritage sites have I visited?

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A photo of Salt's Mill in Saltaire, a UNESCO World Heritage Site near Bradford.

Something I used to do was ask my Facebook friends a new question every day. It started in 2022, and I managed to keep going every day well into last year before running out of ideas for new questions. One of those questions was how many UNESCO World Heritage Sites have you visited?

I think, in my mind, UNESCO World Heritage Sites are relatively unusual, and that most people would have only visited one or two in their lifetimes. As it happens, there are well over a thousand UNESCO World Heritage Sites across the world, in over 160 countries. 35 of these are in the UK alone. So, with this in mind, here are all of those that I have visited, split by country.

United Kingdom

A photo of Bridgetown in Barbados, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Barbados

Barbados has just the one UNESCO World Heritage Site, which is its capital, Bridgetown. I went on holiday with my parents in 2000, as I’d turned 16 and it was their 25th wedding anniversary. To date, it’s the only time I’ve been to the western side of the Atlantic Ocean.

A photo of one of the canals in Bruges.

Belgium

  • La Grand-Place, Brussels. I had a weekend in Brussels with my parents in the early 2000s. At the time, my mum worked for a charity that was applying for a six-figure sum of funding from the European Commission, and so it was decided that she would submit the funding bids in person so that there was no risk of it getting lost in the post. We therefore went as a family and made a weekend of it, travelling down on the Eurostar.
  • Belfries of Belgium and France. These include belfries in Brussels and also Bruges, which we visited in 2014. Speaking of which…
  • Historic Centre of Bruges. The whole of central Bruges is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it’s easy to see why as it’s lovely. Previously I’d been briefly with my parents in 1992, on our way back from a holiday in eastern France.
A photo of Mont St Michel in Northern France

France

France is the country that I’ve visited the most after the UK, so it’s not surprising that I’ve visited several UNESCO World Heritage Sites over the years.

Greece

I have been to Crete, which is home to several UNESCO World Heritage Sites, but as I was only three years old at the time, I don’t really remember it.

Ireland

I have been to Ireland – well, Dublin. There are two UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the Republic of Ireland, but neither of them are in Dublin, so I haven’t been to them.

Italy

I have been to Italy twice – once to Venice, in 1999, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and once on a day trip in 2001 to Ventimiglia, a town known for its markets on the French border, which isn’t.

Jordan and Oman

I have been to Amman in Jordan, and Muscat and Salalah in Oman, but this was a work trip so I didn’t get to see any of the heritage sites whilst there.

Romania

I was lucky enough to go on an A-level Geography field trip to Romania in 2001. Whilst there, I got to see the Danube Delta and some of the Villages with Fortified Churches in Transylvania.

Spain

I’ve been to the northern coast of Spain once, staying near Santander, but it was thirty years ago and so I can’t remember whether we visited any of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites there.

Switzerland

I’ve been to Geneva once, all the way back in 1992, but not to any of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites elsewhere in the country.

Where next

I’ve hinted at a few places that we may go back to in the UK. Next month, there’s a possibility I may check off another international UNESCO World Heritage Site, but I can’t be sure that it’ll happen yet.

Decarbonising London’s Rail Termini

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A photo of the outside of London King's Cross station, one of the 10 London Rail Termini

Yes, I’m writing about transport in London again, even though I live the best part of 200 miles away. This time, it’s about the ongoing efforts to get diesel trains out of the capital, and what progress is being made. I’m going to look at each of London’s rail termini in turn, and see what proportion of trains are running on electric power.

Background: London’s air quality problem

London, like many cities, has had an air quality problem for centuries. There was the Great Stink in 1858, the rise of pollution during the Industrial Revolution, and more recently, emissions from transport. Though I’ve never lived in London, I’ve made regular visits over the years, and still remember having black snot from the poor air quality.

The good news is that air quality in London is improving. Over the years, the Ultra-Low Emission Zone has expanded to cover just about all of London, and reduced the number of polluting vehicles on the road. Improving air quality has been a particular aim of mayor Sir Sadiq Khan, who has even written a book about it (sponsored link). It’s worth a read – it’s relatively short but gets the message across.

But the ULEZ is just about road transport. Today, I’m focussing on rail transport, and specifically looking at the twelve key London termini. Long-distance rail travel in Great Britain is generally focussed on London, and so if you get rid of diesel trains from London, you also get rid of them from other parts of the country too.

Cannon Street

Starting alphabetically, Cannon Street is the first terminus, and one that I personally have never been to. For many years, it was never open on Sundays, although it has operated seven days a week since 2015. All the trains to Cannon Street are operated by Southeastern, who only operate electric trains. So, Cannon Street is fully electrified – probably a good thing, as it’s an enclosed station with low ceilings.

Charing Cross

A little further west along the River Thames is Charing Cross. Like Cannon Street, it too has low ceilings due to over-site development, and is also only served by Southeastern. So, no dirty diesel trains here either.

Euston

Euston was controversially rebuilt in the 1960s as part of the then British Rail’s upgrade of the West Coast Main Line. This included electrification, and so nowadays almost all of the trains which operate from Euston are electric. Avanti West Coast operated a few diesel services to Chester and onwards to North Wales, but are being replaced with new Hitachi bi-mode trains that can operate on electric power as far as Crewe in Cheshire.

There may be some diesel visitors to Euston on occasion, as services that would normally call at Paddington are diverted to Euston during construction work at Old Oak Common. This includes the Night Riveria Sleeper, and some of GWR’s Hitachi bi-mode trains that may have to run on diesel power as they navigate through their diversionary routes.

Fenchurch Street

Fenchurch Street is the smallest of London’s rail termini, with just four platforms. It’s another one that I’ve never been to, as I’ve never needed to go to places like Tilbury or Southend. If I did, I would be able to catch an electric train there courtesy of c2c, whose entire fleet is electric. Indeed, the lines out of Fenchurch Street were some of the first to be electrified using overhead cables in the late 1950s.

King’s Cross

Being from Yorkshire, King’s Cross is the London terminal I’m most familiar with. Most (but not all) of my rail journeys to and from London include King’s Cross.

Though overhead electric wires were strung up for commuter services in the 1970s, the wires didn’t go north of Peterborough until the 1990s. Even then, British Rail still operated a mixture of electric and diesel trains (the venerable High Speed Train) and this persisted until very recently. Their replacement came in the form of more of Hitachi’s bi-mode trains, introduced by LNER. Such trains are also operated by open access operators Hull Trains and Lumo (although Lumo’s trains are all electric).

The outlier is another open access operator, Grand Central. Whilst they operate a small fraction of the services from King’s Cross, at present, they’re all still diesel-powered. That’s due to change, once again thanks to Hitachi who are building some tri-mode trains that can run on electric wires, batteries and diesel. The order for these was only announced a few weeks ago, so it’ll be 2-4 years before we see the back of the last purely diesel trains from King’s Cross, but there’s good progress being made.

Liverpool Street

I’ve only ever been to Liverpool Street mainline station once, which was to use the Stansted Express back in 2009. That was, and still is, an electric train, and indeed all the trains that operate from Liverpool Street are electric. Well, almost: Greater Anglia has a small fleet of bi-mode trains, which for once are not made by Hitachi but by Stadler. Occasionally these run to Liverpool Street, although their main stomping grounds are across Norfolk and Suffolk running regional services. In any case, they should run on electric power when available, so we can tick off Liverpool Street as being electric.

London Bridge

London Bridge underwent a stunning rebuild in the 2010s. I used the old station a bit pre-rebuild and it was awful – the new station is much better.

In the 1930s, the then Southern Railway invested in extensive electrification of its lines, using the third rail principle. Instead of overhead wires, a third metal rail is added to the outside of the two running rails and trains pick up power that way. As such, almost all of the railways in the south-east of England are electrified. Indeed, many have never routinely hosted diesel trains, having gone straight from steam to electric.

However, a handful of lines didn’t get electrified, including services to Uckfield along the Oxted Line. Therefore, there’s a small fleet of diesel trains that serve London Bridge.

Marylebone

Oh dear.

We were doing so well, weren’t we? Seven stations in, and all were either completely electrified, getting there, or had just a handful of diesel services. And then Marylebone has to ruin everything for us.

Okay, so Marylebone is quite a nice London terminus. Whilst not as small as Fenchurch Street, it’s still quite dinky and less overwhelming than some others. It survived closure in the 1980s, and Chiltern Railways has been one of rail privatisation’s few success stories, with new services, new stations and improvements to infrastructure. Indeed, if you want to get a train between London and Birmingham, and don’t mind it being a bit slower, it’s much nicer going from Marylebone to Birmingham Moor Street.

But Marylebone isn’t electrified – at all. Every service that terminates there is a diesel train. And it shows – the last time I was there, there were advertising boards proudly telling us that they had air purification technology built into them. But this wouldn’t be necessary, if the trains that were calling there didn’t spout diesel fumes.

There have been some lacklustre efforts to improve the situation – one of Chiltern Railways’ trains was modified to be a diesel-battery hybrid, and it could use its battery at low speed and in stations. Alas, this was never rolled out to other trains in the fleet. Also, the oldest of Chilterns’ trains are now around 30 years old and need replacing, so putting up electric wires would be timely to prevent a new order of diesel trains.

One issue is that trains from Marylebone to Aylesbury share track with London Underground’s Metropolitan Line services (a relic from when the Metropolitan Line went all the way to Aylesbury). These lines are owned by Transport for London, and electrified using a unique four-rail system. Any electrification scheme would need to take this into account, especially as TfL probably won’t want overhead wires stringing up over their infrastructure. Dual-voltage trains, which can run on both overhead and third-rail electrified lines, are a thing and are used daily on Thameslink services, for example, but this would need careful planning to work out.

Moorgate

Moorgate is a London terminus, albeit of just one line nowadays – the Northern City Line. Historically, this line was considered part of London Underground and was grouped with the Northern Line, and so it’s electrified.

Until the 2010s, some Thameslink services terminated here too, but these were axed to allow platform extensions at Farringdon station. They too were electric though.

Paddington

Paddington was a latecomer to the electrification party (which sounds like a round from I’m Sorry I Haven’t A Clue). The first electric trains started in the late 1990s, and even then, it was just the new Heathrow Express service. However, the announcement of the Great Western Main Line Electrification project allowed it to catch up, with electric wires extended all the way from Airport Junction in West London across the Welsh border into Cardiff. However, that project also went massively over budget, and as such, lines to Bristol and Oxford never received their wires.

Whilst some electric trains run from Paddington, the majority are those Hitachi bi-modes again, which can run on electric power where available and switch to diesel if needed. This has meant that Paddington has moved from having only a handful of electric trains in the 2000s, to being almost entirely electric now. There’s just a handful of commuter trains at peak times that use diesel Networker Turbo units, and the Night Riveria Sleeper train, which uses diesel locomotives. Perhaps, in future, the Night Riveria will be hauled by bi-mode locomotives, such as the new Class 93 and Class 99 locomotives under construction.

See Marylebone? It can be done.

A photo of St Pancras station in 2007

St Pancras

The rebuild of St Pancras for High Speed One services was excellent. I have vague memories of the tired old station, and now it’s much better.

However, there are still a few diesel trains plying their trade at St Pancras. These are the trains which take the Midland Main Line up to Sheffield and Nottingham. This line should have been electrified in its entirety by now; instead, it’s being done on a piecemeal basis and currently the wires are projected to stop just south of Leicester.

The good news is that new trains are on order – and yes, they’re yet more bi-mode trains from Hitachi, although they’ll be slightly different than the units used by other operators. And East Midlands Railway has introduced electric trains from Corby into St Pancras – impressive as Corby station only re-opened in 2009.

Victoria

Victoria is big and confusing. I’ve used it a few times and can’t say I’m a fan. But all the trains that run from Victoria are electric, so that’s good.

Waterloo

Until the Elizabeth Line came along, Waterloo, with its 24 platforms, was the busiest station in the UK. Now it’s third, but still very busy.

It’s also a bit like London Bridge, in that the vast majority of trains are electric, but a handful of diesel services limp on to serve places beyond the reach of the third rail network. Doing something about these services is more pressing than those from London Bridge to Uckfield, as the trains are older and due for replacement. Various ideas have been floated around, but it seems probable that we’ll see existing electric trains getting batteries bolted onto them, and some discontinuous electrification to charge them up. That could be some of the new Class 701s, which have had one of the most protracted entries into service of any new train, or some Class 350s which are about to go off-lease from London Northwestern.

Conclusion

Overall, the majority of train services into London are already electric, including all services to seven of the twelve stations. Of the remaining five, diesel trains make up a small number of services at three of them, and we’ll likely see the back of the last remaining diesel trains at King’s Cross and St Pancras by the end of the decade. The lack of any sort of electrification at Marylebone is a bigger problem to tackle, but then Paddington has gone from being all diesel to almost all electric within 30 years; indeed much of that progress has been within the last 10-15 years. It’s also clear that bi-mode trains have a future until further electrification outside the capital takes place.

Splitting and renaming the Underground

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An extract of the London Underground map showing the Northern Line around Camden Town

This is the second of two blog posts about the new London tube map, which saw the six lines that make up the London Overground gain their own identities. The previous blog post was about the ambiguous nature of the Waterloo & City Line’s step-free access. Meanwhile, today, I’m wondering whether some lines that make up London Underground could be given their own identities, like the Overground.

Some lines on the London Underground are simple through routes, with no branches – namely, the Jubilee, Victoria and Bakerloo Lines. For others, it gets a bit more complicated, and so this is a discussion of splitting some lines up, and giving them their own identity. None of these ideas are new – they’ve been talked about for years and exist in some official Transport for London plans – but it’s an opportunity to think of some names for them.

A history of splitting Underground lines

If you look at one of Harry Beck‘s tube maps from the 1930s, broadly speaking, you’ll be able to compare it easily to a modern day tube map – certainly when looking inside the Circle Line. The Victoria, Jubilee and Elizabeth Lines aren’t there, but otherwise, not a lot has changed in 90-odd years.

What you will notice, however, is the Metropolitan Line has lots more branches than it does now. Over time, however, the Metropolitan Line has been split up; firstly, the branch to Stanmore became a branch of the Bakerloo line, and is now part of the modern-day Jubilee Line. Then, in 1990, the line from Hammersmith to Barking was given its own identity as the Hammersmith & City Line, and the isolated East London branch became the East London Line. Incidentally, the East London Line is now part of London Overground, and recently gained its new identity as the Windrush Line.

I mention this because branches of tube lines have been given their own identities before, and so there is precedent for doing this.

The Wimbleware Line

Oh where is the Wimbleware? It’s a colloquial name for a service on the District Line, where trains run from Wimbledon in the south, to Edgware Road in the north. Wimbleware is a portmanteau of Wimbledon and Edgware, a bit like how the Bakerloo Line is a portmanteau of Baker Street and Waterloo, and indeed a contraction of its old name, the Baker Street and Waterloo Railway.

Operationally, the Wimbleware has always been somewhat separate from the rest of the District Line. Whilst nowadays, all District Line services operate using S Stock trains, it used to be that Wimbleware services used a different type of rolling stock to the rest of the line. Most District Line services used D78 stock (some of which is enjoying a new life as Class 230 and Class 484 trains on the main line), whilst Wimbleware services used C stock trains, more commonly found on the Circle Line.

Taking the Wimbleware out of the District Line, and giving it a distinct identity, would significantly simplify how the District Line appears. Right now, you essentially have two eastern branches, to Edgware Road and Upminster, and four branches to the west – to Ealing Broadway, Richmond, Wimbledon, and very occasionally Kensington (Olympia). The Wimbleware would just operate Wimbledon to Edgware services, leaving one eastern branch and essentially just two western branches.

But what will we call it?

I doubt we’ll see the name ‘Wimbleware’ on any tube maps in the future. It’s a nice colloquial name, but we also know that several lines of the London Overground had colloquial names that weren’t used. The Overground line from Gospel Oak to Barking was known as ‘The Goblin’, but its new official name is the Suffragette Line, and the Watford DC Line between Watford Junction and Euston has become the Lioness Line.

My suggestion would be the ‘Carnival Line‘ as it passes through Notting Hill, home of the annual Notting Hill Carnival. As with the new names of the Overground lines, like the aforementioned Windrush line, it highlights and celebrates London’s diverse culture, as well as giving a really obvious suggestion of which line to take if travelling to the carnival.

Alternatively, if permission could be obtained from the estate of Elizabeth Beresford, how about the Womble Line? It would celebrate the famous fictitious residents of Wimbledon Common, who look after the environment by reusing people’s rubbish.

Splitting the Northern Line

Another line that’s rather confusing is the Northern Line, which has two branches which pass through central London, meet up again between Euston and Camden Town, and then separate again. Now, Transport for London has long planned to split the line in two, but the aforementioned Camden Town station is the sticking point.

What is now the Northern Line was formed from two separate railways. The ‘Bank branch’ was the world’s first successful deep tube line, and was known as the City and South London Railway, first opening in 1890. Meanwhile, the ‘Charing Cross branch’ was formed from the Charing Cross, Euston and Hampstead Railway between 1907 and 1914. Whilst both reached Euston station, they were completely separate until the 1920s. They collectively became known as the Northern Line in the 1930s, as part of the ambitious Northern Heights plan to take over some suburban rail lines in North London. Alas, only some of the Northern Heights plan ever came to fruition.

Splitting the Northern Line into separate branches has some key advantages. Currently, with trains from both the Bank and Charing Cross branches serving both the Edgware and High Barnet branches, there’s a limit on capacity. At peak times, there are 24 trains per hour on the Northern Line – which is still pretty frequent, especially by the standards of trains that I’m used to up here in the north of England. But having two fully separate lines could allow much more frequent trains – potentially as many as 36 per hour. That would be a 50% capacity increase and make each branch of the Northern Line equal to the Victoria Line in terms of service frequency.

The Camden Town problem

I mentioned that Camden Town tube station would be a sticking point. Along with nearby Euston, and Kennington in the south, it would be one of three stations where passengers would need to change from one branch to the other. Remember, the plan would be to completely separate each branch, so trains heading north from Charing Cross would only go to Edgware, and trains heading north from Bank would only go to High Barnet or Mill Hill East. At the moment, you can get a direct Northern Line train from Charing Cross to High Barnet, if you’re prepared to wait long enough – about 10 of the 24 trains per hour make this journey at peak times. Should the split be implemented, you would have to change at either Euston or Camden Town, but with the benefit of much more frequent trains.

So why is Camden Town a problem? Well, it’s just not big enough for a huge increase in passengers changing trains. Indeed, it’s just not big enough full stop; on Sunday afternoons, the station is typically exit-only (meaning you can’t enter the station from the street) to manage crowds. Transport for London plans to build an additional entrance, and add extra passenger tunnels and more escalators. The plans also include providing lift access, making it completely step free; at present, there’s step-free interchange between the two Northern Line branches, but it’s not possible to enter or exit the station without using steps or an escalator.

The plans to rebuild Camden Town have existed for years, but funding hasn’t been forthcoming.

Also, simply rebuilding Camden Town station will not, in itself, be enough. To operate a more frequent service, London Underground will also need extra trains. There were plans to order additional trains for both the Northern and Jubilee Lines, which operate similar trains built around the same time by the same manufacturer (Alstom). However, the business case was hard to justify at the time. Perhaps new trains could be ordered just for the Jubilee Line, and then the old Jubilee Line trains would operate on the Northern Line?

But what do we call it?

If the split does occur, it would be interesting to see if both new lines get a new name, or whether one remains the Northern Line. And if so, which one? I would argue that the Morden to High Barnet/Mill Hill East line (Bank branch) would be the best to rename, as Morden is actually the most southerly tube station on the network. It seems a bit strange that the most southerly tube station is on the Northern Line.

It could honour the original builders of the line and be called the Southern and City Line. The original train company was the City and South London Railway, but I’ve re-ordered the name to match the other two ‘and City’ lines – the Hammersmith and City, and the Waterloo and City Lines. That might get a little confusing with the Southern railway company, although with rail franchises now being brought back in house, that might not be such an issue.

I also note that one suggested name for the line back in the 1920s was the ‘Tootancamden Line‘, as it passed through both Tooting and Camden but also sounded a but like Tutankhamun. However, whilst there are several Egyptian mummies in the British Museum, Tutankhamun isn’t one of them, and the British Museum is closer to Goodge Street on the Charing Cross branch of the Northern Line. Also, I don’t think we need another reminder of Britain’s colonial past.

Another suggestion could be the Market Line, as the line passes via both Borough and Camden Markets, and the London’s financial centre. That being said, the closest tube station to the London Stock Exchange is St Paul’s on the Central Line. Although to be fair, the newly-named Mildmay Line is not the closest Overground line to the Mildmay Hospital.

Now, I’m not a Londoner – I generally only have the opportunity to visit London once a year – so I’m sure locals could think of some much better names. I quite like the new names for the Overground Lines, and they celebrate ordinary, modern, diverse Londoners. Which is nice since the three most recent new lines, the Victoria, Jubilee and Elizabeth, have all been about royalty. I’d hope that Transport for London would carry on with interesting new names for any newly-split Underground lines.

Is the Waterloo & City Line Step Free? It’s Complicated

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An excerpt of the Step Free Tube Map showing the Waterloo & City Line

A couple of weeks ago, a new Tube Map was published, to coincide with the new names for the London Overground lines. Besides the fact that north-east London is no longer a sea of orange but several different colours, another thing stood out to me. According to the Tube Map, there’s no step-free access on the Waterloo & City Line:

An excerpt of the Standard Tube Map showing the Waterloo & City Line

Stations that are step-free have a pictogram of a person in a wheelchair. But the platforms for the Waterloo & City Line show a regular empty circle at both of its stations, indicating no step-free access. So, surely the answer to the question of whether the Waterloo & City Line is step-free is ‘no’?

What does the step-free map say?

Actually, the answer is more complicated than that. Certainly, the Waterloo & City Line wasn’t step free in the past, as I noted in a previous blog post from 2017. But work at both Waterloo and Bank stations has resulted in the installation of lifts, meaning that the line is actually step free.

Transport for London publish a separate step-free Tube map, which offers more detail than the standard one. For example, there are letters (A, B and C) showing how big the gap between the train and the platform edge is (mind the gap), or the letters R and M if a ramp or mini-ramp can be used to help to bridge the gap. And here’s how the Waterloo & City Line appears:

An excerpt of the Step Free Tube Map showing the Waterloo & City Line

Note that there’s an ‘R’ at both ends, and, unlike the nearby Bakerloo line which is shaded out as being completely inaccessible, the Waterloo & City Line is in its usual colour. So, we can conclude, the Waterloo & City Line does offer step-free access. With the help of staff with a ramp.

So, why do the two Tube Maps contradict each other?

Complicated interchange

Well, I did say it was complicated. The step-free tube map also includes exclamation marks next to some station names. These indicate that there’s additional information to read about how accessible each station is. For Waterloo, it only covers the Jubilee Line; all the information about the Waterloo & City Line is on the Bank listing:

Lifts to the Waterloo & City line are available Mondays – Fridays, via the entrance on Walbrook. Step-free exit at Waterloo is via the National Rail lift (usually available Monday to Saturday 0430 – 0105, Sunday 0530 – 0105). Please check before you travel. Step-free interchange between the Waterloo & City line and the Northern line and DLR requires a 290m journey via street and lifts.

It’s that last sentence that’s worth paying the most attention to. Bank, along with nearby Monument station, is a massive interchange and the second largest on the London Underground after King’s Cross St Pancras. It’s also just had a massive upgrade, adding step-free access to the Northern Line for the first time, and step-free interchange with the Docklands Light Railway (DLR). However, there isn’t a direct step-free interchange between the Northern Line and DLR, and the Waterloo & City Line.

Say, you arrive at Bank on the DLR and can’t use steps or escalators. To get to Waterloo, you need to exit the station via the Cannon Street entrance, walk/roll along Cannon Street itself, turn right up Walbrook and re-enter Bank station underneath the Bloomberg building.

Similarly, the interchange at Waterloo, from the Jubilee Line to the Waterloo & City Line, would require you to go up to street level and through Waterloo mainline station.

So yes, the Waterloo & City Line is step-free, and is indeed the only London Underground line to be entirely step free, by virtue of having just two stations. But it doesn’t offer step-free access in a way that is useful to interchanging passengers. I suppose if you arrive on a mainline train in Waterloo, and your destination is Bank, then it’s fine. But say you arrived on a mainline train at Liverpool Street and needed to get to Waterloo, there are better options that changing at Bank (in this case, Elizabeth Line to Bond Street and then Jubilee Line to Waterloo). And that’s why the standard Tube Map doesn’t show it as step-free.

Quirks of the Waterloo & City Line history

The Waterloo & City Line has always been an oddity. It only became an official London Underground line in 1994, and was previously operated by British Rail. Indeed, its trains originally carried the old Network SouthEast livery, rather than the standard tube livery. When British Rail was privatised, it was seen as an anomaly and so given to London Underground, rather than parcelled up with the other services to Waterloo that become South West Trains (now South Western Railway). As far as I am aware, it’s never operated on Sundays, as it mostly serves commuters, and since the pandemic, there has been no Saturday service either.

It was only the second deep tube line to be built in London, after the City & South London Railway (now the Northern Line). It was built by the London & South Western Railway (LSWR) to provide a link from its major terminus at Waterloo, under the River Thames and into the City of London. At the time, many rival railway companies had stations in the city, and this was the LSWR’s way of competing without needing to buy lots of land, demolish buildings and build new bridges. It’s also the only tube line to be entirely underground, including the depot at Waterloo station (the Victoria Line’s depot is above ground), and it’s completely isolated from all other railway lines. When trains require heavy maintenance, they have to be lifted out of the depot by crane and taken by road.

Since it opened in 1898, the Waterloo & City Line has remained a simple, two station shuttle. Over the years, there have been many enhancement ideas banded around. These have included adding additional platforms to serve Blackfriars station, or trying to somehow join it on to the DLR at Bank to allow through journeys to Waterloo.

Election day

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An AI generated image of a ballot box overflowing with election ballots in the countryside

Today is election day for much of the UK. It’s not a general election, as much as I would like it to be; that will be sometime between mid-June and mid-January. But here in Sowerby Bridge, we have two elections taking place:

As I am a card-carrying member of the Labour Party, I’ll be voting for them in both elections. It’s likely that Labour will win both too. Our local authority, Calderdale Council, is already a Labour-controlled council, as are the four other local authorities that make up West Yorkshire. And Tracy Brabin, the incumbent mayor, will almost certainly be re-elected. Although very little local polling has taken place, Labour are polling significantly ahead of all other parties nationally.

If you are voting today, remember that you need to take some photo ID with you. This will be my second election where photo ID has been required, but may be your first. Even though the actual rate of electoral fraud was almost completely insignificant before voter ID rules were introduced.

New mayoralties

Over in York, my parents will be able to vote for an elected mayor of York and North Yorkshire for the first time. This will be a more interesting contest, as York tends to lean towards Labour and the Liberal Democrats, whereas the wider (and more rural) county of North Yorkshire leans Conservative. If David Skaith wins the mayoralty for Labour, it will mean that the Conservatives really are in trouble when they finally call a General Election.

There will also be mayoral elections for the first time in the North East and East Midlands, and the Conservative mayors of Tees Valley and the West Midlands will be hoping to be re-elected. Again, should these mayoralties fall to Labour, it’s a sign that the Conservative party are a spent electoral force.

London mayoral election

And there’s the London mayoral election, where Sadiq Khan will be looking to become the first modern mayor to be elected for a third time. The ULEZ seems to be the key issue here; it was a key part of Khan’s manifesto and most of his rivals want to scrap or curtail it. The exception seems to be Count Binface, who instead wants to expand free parking to electric vehicle users between Vine Street and the Strand. Except for those who drive a Tesla.

We’ll get most of the local council elections tomorrow, with the mayoral election results coming in over the weekend. It certainly promises to be an interesting few days in British politics.

How do you solve a problem like the Central Line?

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A photo of a prototype train for the Central Line, now on display at the London Transport Museum Depot in Acton

The Central Line of the London Underground is not having a good time at the moment. We experienced this first hand on our recent trip to London. As the Young V&A is close to Bethnal Green tube station, when we visited we tried to use the Central Line to head back into central London.

We gave up after two trains stopped where it was literally impossible to fit on. Every carriage was crush-loaded, and this was mid-afternoon on a Saturday – not exactly rush hour.

The issue is with the trains that run on the Central Line. These are 1992 Stock, which, as the name suggests, date from 1992 and were built by the newly-privatised BREL. Specifically, it’s the traction motors on these trains, which are failing at a faster than expected rate. Without a working motor, the trains can’t move, and so they have to be taken out of service. Consequently, there are fewer trains available for service, and so passengers are being crammed into less frequent services.

Transport for London have short, medium and long-term solutions to this issue:

Short term

In the short term, there are fewer trains in the timetable. With around a third of the fleet out of service, the timetable has been cut to reduce short-term cancellations. It’s something we’ve seen elsewhere in the country – Transpennine Express cut several trains to improve reliability.

Medium term

In the medium term, there is the Central Line Improvement Programme (CLIP). This is a major refurbishment of the trains, which includes replacing the troublesome motors as well as installing CCTV and accessibility improvements. For example, trains will now have wheelchair accessible spaces, and there are new screens with visual announcements of the next stop – standard on other lines, but new to the Central Line.

As an aside, I can’t help but feel that CLIP is a boring name when Central Line Improvement to Train Operation and Reliability Investment Scheme was right there. Even if the acronym does spell CLITORIS.

The CLIP started before the reliability issues came to ahead, and the first refurbished train was in service in December. But it’ll be a while before work on the full fleet of 77 trains is completed.

Long term

Ultimately, these are 30 year old trains, and eventually they will need replacing. They’re not the oldest on the network – that ‘honour’ goes to the Bakerloo Line, with trains that are over 50 years old. Slightly newer, but only just, are those on the Piccadilly Line, which are being replaced with 2024 stock to support an increase in service. Right now, there’s only funding available for new trains for the Piccadilly Line, but TfL’s long term aim is that the same trains will run on the Central, Bakerloo and Waterloo & City Lines too. Whilst the first units are being assembled in Germany and Austria, most will be built by Siemens in a brand new factory in Goole, East Yorkshire.

Where I live in the north of England, a big deal was made out of the replacement of 1980s era Pacer trains which were no longer fit for purpose. And whilst there’s a feeling in the north that London gets more than its fair share of UK public transport spending, the oldest tube trains are 10 years older than the oldest Northern Rail trains. Ordering a completely new fleet for all the London Underground lines that need it will result ensure skilled manufacturing jobs remain in Yorkshire for at least the next decade.

The Cartoon Museum

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Inside the Cartoon Museum in London.

This is the fourth in the series of blog posts about places we went to in London – you can also read about the Bank of England Museum, the Cute exhibition at Somerset House, and the Young V&A.

On our last day in London, we went to the Cartoon Museum in Soho. It’s a relatively new museum, opening initially in 2006 and in its current location in 2019. It’s also quite small – allow a maximum of two hours – but with plenty to see. The walls are packed with illustrations going back a couple of hundred years, right up to now – the newest being Ben Jennings’ cartoon of Queen Elizabeth II taking the Elizabeth Line into the light when her death was announced in September 2022. It is mostly lots of pictures on walls, but there is a Spitting Image puppet on display as well.

At the moment, there’s a Wallace & Gromit exhibition, marking 30 years since the release of The Wrong Trousers. There’s several models on show, as well as some behind the scenes photos and some of the equipment used to film it. You can also see the actual Oscar that Nick Park won, although no photos are permitted of this. The exhibition is on until the 16th April.

A smaller exhibition shows the work of Oluwasegun Babatunde, a Nigerian comic artist who created a team of superheros based in Sub-Saharan Africa during the Covid-19 pandemic. This is on until the end of this month.

There’s also an activity room where you can create your own comic strips, and of course the ubiquitous shop.

Accessibility

The nearest tube stations to the Cartoon Museum are Oxford Circus and Tottenham Court Road. The museum is located in a basement, down a set of stairs, and sadly the lift has been broken since 2022. A recent crowdfunder to fit a new lift didn’t quite reach its goal but hopefully this will be fixed soon. Ear defenders and sensory backpacks are available to borrow once inside.

Young V&A

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A photo of the interior of the Young V&A.

This is the third in the series of blog posts about places we went to in London – you can also read about the Bank of England Museum and the Cute exhibition at Somerset House.

The Young V&A is the new name for the V&A Museum of Childhood. It’s still in the same place, outside central London in Bethnal Green, but the new name reflects a complete refurbishment. We last went in 2017, and it’s changed massively since then. Before, it was very much a museum, with lots of objects in big glass cases and not much to interact with. Now, whilst there are still some objects to look at, it’s a much more interactive space, and somewhere to bring young children to play. Indeed, our eight-year-old was probably one of the older kids there. Dropping the ‘museum’ from the title therefore makes sense.

The gallery spaces have been split into themes – Play, Imagine and Design. Play arguably caters for the youngest children, although there’s a big screen with a playable Minecraft version of the museum (thankfully it resets regularly to discourage hogging). Imagine includes the dollhouse collection from before, and design looks at how products are designed. There’s a particular focus on recycling waste into useful furniture.

Japan: Myths to Manga

Japan: Myths and Manga

Then there’s an exhibition space, and the opening exhibition is called Japan: Myths to Manga. Whilst the main museum is free to enter, you have to pay to access the exhibition space, and tickets are limited. We made the mistake of not booking in advance, so when we were ready to visit the exhibition on a Saturday afternoon, no more tickets were left. So, we ended up booking tickets for the Sunday and came back the following day.

Personally, I concur with Ianvisits and found the exhibition a little under-whelming, but my wife and child seemed much more engaged. The exhibition is rather sparse, and I would have expected to see more objects there. However, I’m not in the target market for this and we did spend over an hour in the exhibition. There’s several clips from Studio Ghibli films to watch and plenty of Pokemon; but it was also good to read about the traditional Japanese stories and myths which inspired these works.

Accessibility

Because our hotel was located between Aldgate and Whitechapel, we caught the bus to the Young V&A, but it’s also a short walk from Bethnal Green tube station which is on the Central Line. It’s also not too far from Cambridge Heath station on the London Overground, on what will soon be known as the Weaver Line. Around the corner is the new permanent home of the Vagina Museum, although we didn’t have chance to visit this time around.

As you would expect from a recently-renovated museum, there is step free access everywhere, and there’s a dedicated quiet space in the Reading Room. Which we found quite welcome; although the renovation has been extensive, it’s a listed building and so there are limits. Any building popular with children is bound to be noisy, and the open space in the middle is quite echo-y.

Cute at Somerset House

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The Cute exhibition at Somerset House in London.

After we spent the morning at the Bank of England Museum, the second place we visited on our trip to London was Somerset House for their Cute exhibition.

Like previous exhibitions at Somerset House, Cute includes some new commissioned art and existing pieces, as well as donated memorabilia. Back in 2021, we went to an exhibition about the Beano, and this filled the same space in the South Wing. It’s an exploration of cute things and its impact on society, including kawaii.

Hello Kitty

The exhibition also marks the 50th anniversary of Hello Kitty, and a large section of the exhibition is devoted to the memorabilia collected by one person. Including Hello Kitty Spam.

There are some interactive parts too. There’s a room with some arcade games, old and new, including some indie games like Froggy Pot.

Some of the art produced for the exhibition is AI generated, and the theme image features a kitten with a unicorn horn and seemingly seven paws. I suspect that they’ve kept this in because it shows the weird-er side of cuteness.

Pop-up cafe

Alongside the exhibition is a pop-up Hello Kitty themed café. We had to queue to get in, as it’s a small space, but the food was nice albeit very full of sugar.

The exhibition runs until the 14th April, so you’ve got about five weeks to go to see it. We went on a Friday when walk-up tickets were available, but I imagine it’ll be busier at weekends and so you may wish to consider pre-booking. You can also look at all of the objects online at cute.guide.

Accessibility

The southern entrance to Somerset House is the closest to the exhibition, and is very close to Temple tube station on the District and Circle lines. It’s also close to Waterloo Bridge. Whilst there are stairs, all are duplicated by several lifts giving access to the exhibition, which currently have furry insides. Access packs, containing large print guides, noise-cancelling headphones, magnifying glasses and a stress ball, are available to borrow from the box office.

Bank of England Museum

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A photo of the new King Charles coins and bank notes at the Bank of England Museum in London

The first place we went to on our trip to London last weekend was the Bank of England Museum. Which is pretty much what you would expect it to be – a museum based at the Bank of England headquarters in the City of London. Access is via a side entrance, and, as you would expect, you have to go through a security scanner to get in.

This is only the second time that I have been to the Bank of England Museum. The first time was a long time ago. I can’t remember exactly when, but I was definitely still living at home, so probably 25-ish years ago. Part of the reason for this is that the museum is only open on weekdays, and we normally visit London at weekends. As we had the benefit of an extra day, we were able to visit last Friday.

It’s not a big museum – a typical visit will take 1-2 hours – but it’s free to get in. And the exhibits are regularly updated. As shown in the photo above, there are samples of the new coins and banknotes featuring King Charles III which are not yet in general circulation. I was also amused by the satirical FTX t-shirt in an exhibit about cryptocurrencies. These are in a new exhibition called The Future of Money, which opened a couple of days before we travelled and runs until next September.

Like many museums, the Bank of England Museum has also acknowledged the darker sides of its past. Recent new exhibits include copies of ledgers listing the names of slaves that came into the bank’s possession, and there’s a display about the Windrush generation. On arrival in the UK, many of those who travelled on the Empire Windrush to start new lives were denied access to traditional banks, and the museum has a series of panels on Pardner Hand to allow people to borrow or save money.

Other permanent exhibits include some examples of forged bank notes (including some introduced by the Nazis in the Second World War to de-stabilise the economy), and of course there’s plenty on the history of the bank.

If you haven’t been to the Bank of England Museum before, I’d recommend going. It’s not a full day out, but it’s free and there are some interactive elements for children.

Accessibility

Predictably, the nearest tube station is Bank, which has step-free access from the Northern and Waterloo & City Lines, and the DLR. There are steps in the museum, including at the entrance, however, security staff can escort those with mobility issues from the bank’s main entrance and ramps can be provided once inside. There isn’t a quiet room, but ear defenders are available to borrow.