Nunnington Hall

A photo of the outside of Nunnington Hall

On Easter Monday, we took advantage of the nice weather on Easter Monday to visit Nunnington Hall. Yes, I am aware it has taken me a month to get this published. I’ve been to Nunnington Hall before, but it was many, many years ago. Such that I don’t really remember it, and certainly didn’t have any photos of it.

History of Nunnington Hall

Nunnington Hall gets its name from the village of Nunnington, itself named after a nunnery that once stood in the village. There has been a hall in Nunnington since the 13th Century and in the 14th Century, it passed to the Grene family. In 1499, Maud Grene, the lady-in-waiting to Queen Elizabeth of York (wife to King Henry VII) married Sir Thomas Parr, and so the property passed to him. He had a daughter, Catherine Parr, who followed in her mother’s footsteps by marrying Henry VII’s son, King Henry VIII. Catherine Parr was famously the last of Henry VIII’s six wives and outlived him.

In the 16th Century, the property passed to Catherine Parr’s brother, William, Marquess of Northampton. He started a trend of choosing the wrong side in royal conflicts, by favouring the succession of Lady Jane Grey over Mary Tudor. As such, he forfeited Nunnington Hall to the crown.

About a hundred years later, Ranald Graham bought Nunnington Hall for £9500 – around £2.5million in today’s money. He made many changes to the hall, which resulted in many of the historical features still seen today. Another member of the Graham family, Sir Richard Graham, was the second to get a bit of pickle with royalty, being a supporter of Catholic King James II when the Protestant William and Mary ascended to the throne. He was arrested, imprisoned, and only avoided the death penalty for high treason by being an informant for his accomplices. He was stripped of his land and titles and quietly retired to Nunnington Hall. The Graham family sold Nunnington Hall in 1839.

The buyers were the Rutson family, with whom it remained until 1952 when it was left to the National Trust. However, whilst the National Trust took ownership, family members remained living there as tenants until 1978, after which more rooms could be opened to the public.

The hall

Whilst much of the hall dates from Tudor times, it has been renovated several times over the years. Inside, it mostly appears as renovated in the 1920s in the Arts and Crafts style. This included the addition of indoor plumbing. Most of the hall is open to the public, including the main entertaining rooms and the bedrooms. The servants would have lived in the attic, and this has been opened up as an exhibition space. At present, it’s a series of nature pieces by a collective called Diverse Threads 2; later this month, you’ll be able to see entries from the British Wildlife Photography Awards.

Nunnington Hall is also home to the Carlisle Collection of miniature rooms. These are essentially small rooms, like those in a doll house, but not part of an overall house. Some are very intricate – there’s one of a music shop, where each miniature instrument can be played.

The gardens

Nunnington Hall’s gardens are modest; you can walk around the entirety in about half an hour. The National Trust switched to organic gardening at Nunnington Hall in 2002.

They are laid out mostly as they would have been in the 17th Century, with some nods to its 20th Century heyday. This includes a kitchen garden, and a new iris garden that was added last year. There is also a children’s play area, hidden away in the trees.

The house sits next to the River Rye, which gives its name to Ryedale which was the former name of the district council until it was abolished in 2023. Apparently, wild otters have been spotted on the river, but we didn’t see any.

Accessibility

As alluded to above, Nunnington Hall has been altered significantly over the years. And whilst it’s not as higgledy-piggledy as, for example, Little Moreton Hall or Bolling Hall, there is almost no step-free access inside the hall beyond the ground floor. The grounds are largely step-free, but not always on hard surfaces. A disabled toilet is available, but the nearest Changing Places toilets as several miles away in either Pickering or Malton.

Nunnington Hall is a mid-tier National Trust property, so entry prices are currently around £13 for adults. National Trust members get in free, as do RHS members and National Art Pass Holders.

There is a car park on the other side of the River Rye from the hall, linked by a footbridge, and this includes electric vehicle charging. There are four Standard (7kW AC, Type 2) chargers, although two were out of order when we visited. A £5 donation is requested if using the chargers. Additional charging is available in Nunnington village.

Bus services run on weekends and bank holidays only, from April to September. Two bus services run in each direction, setting off from Helmsley and heading to Castle Howard. Until the 1950s, Nunnington had a railway station, but it’s long gone now.

Bolton Abbey

A view of Bolton Abbey overlooking the River Wharfe

Bolton Abbey is yet another of those ‘I can’t believe I haven’t written about this before’ places that we went to again last month. But, apparently, I’ve never written a blog post about a visit, even though I’ve been loads of times over the years.

The Bolton Abbey estate is one of the ‘seats’ of the Dukes of Devonshire, along with Chatsworth (see 2016 blog post although we’ve visited again more recently) in Derbyshire and Lismore Castle in Ireland – none of which are in Devonshire. The 11th Duke of Devonshire, Andrew Cavendish, transferred ownership of the Bolton Abbey estate to a charitable trust who operate it to this day.

As the name suggests, the main feature of the estate is an abbey, now known as Bolton Priory. Part of the church is still in use today, but the rest of it is a ruin, following the Dissolution of the Monasteries by Henry VIII. I’m beginning to understand why we spend so long learning about the Tudors in our history lessons at school. The priory was built next to a crossing point of the River Wharfe, and the estate essentially covers the river valley.

Our last visit was in the summer of 2020, during the pandemic, and over the years I’ve been on some hikes with the University hiking club,

The Strid

I’m going to let you watch this Tom Scott video about The Strid. Upstream from the abbey, the River Wharfe hits a section of harder rock, and is forced into a narrow, fast-flowing channel, known as The Strid. It’s regarded as being one of the most dangerous stretches of water in the world, as whilst it may look sedate from above, there are fast-flowing currents below the surface. And we’re not entirely sure how deep it is – there may be hidden caverns down there.

Due to the exceptionally dry year that we’ve had, there was less water flowing through The Strid when we visited. But there are big warning signs around, advising that people have lost their lives after having fallen in. We had a look at it from a safe distance.

The Stepping Stones and the beach

Back down towards the priory, there are a set of stepping stones across the river. It’s particularly wide and shallow here, and possible to wade across in summer. There have been stepping stones here since the abbey’s heyday, although they’re often replaced due to damage. There are 62 stones in total, and our nine-year-old raced across whilst I nervously followed behind. Nowadays, there’s a bridge alongside, and so Christine took the easy route.

Next to the stepping stones is a beach – a sandy area inside one of the river’s meanders. This is popular, especially on sunny days, as an inland alternative to the seaside. Our nine-year-old had a nice paddle.

On the eastern bank of the river was the Welly Walk, which I understand is only here for this year and closes in November. It’s essentially a series of play areas over a one mile walk. It can get muddy, and the path isn’t suitable for wheelchairs or pushchairs, but it’s a fun challenge for kids.

Accessibility

The map given to you on arrival shows the more accessible paths around the estate, but there are some relatively steep ramps even on the more accessible routes. Some paths have steps, and almost all are gravel with some uneven surfaces.

There’s plenty of parking on site, across four car parks. Payment is £15 per car for a whole day on arrival, or £12.50 if pre-booked at least a day before. You don’t need to pay to enter the site, so if you’re able to arrive by some other method, you won’t need to pay anything.

That said, public transport options are limited. There are buses on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, and Dalesbus services at weekends. Due to a narrow arch on the road through the valley, these tend to be small buses. Bolton Abbey railway station is about a mile away, but it’s on the Embsay and Bolton Abbey Steam Railway which doesn’t have a mainline connection.

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